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before I knew of the local walnut blaster, I had used a stripper to get the parts cleaned up on the car. My body man says that I should be using baking soda too nutilize the stripper or it will continue to eat at the fiberglass and show back up in the paint. When I stripped everything, I used soap and water with a scrub brush. Then I wet sanded the whole peice smooth where there was heavy paint. So I think everything was cleaned and rinsed good. Has anyone every heard of the baking soda thing? Or is this a old body man tale? I looked on the can of stripper it says nothing of the baking soda, but just water and soap. Give your thoughts guys!!! Thanks Troy
over 20 yrs ago, I used a paint stripper (can't recall the brand) on a '75 Vette. Worked on a small section at a time (2' x 2') and had a hose next to me. As soon as I scraped off the paint goo in the area I was working on, I hosed the area down thoroughly. Once I was done with the stripper, I still needed to do quite a bit of sanding. Then I cleaned the whole body with lacquer thinner, sealed and primed it before painting. Never had a problem after painting.
I have been using chemical stripper for well over 30 years and all I do is use GOOD automotive grade PRIMING lacquer thinner to clean off the panel and wipe it down.
I do not use water due to it can turn the stripper into a sludgy gummy crap (regardless of what the instructions state)....while the lacquer thinner thins it down and allows me to get it off the panel.
As for in baking soda...CAN NOT neutralize the active ingredient in the chemical stripper.....which is more than likely METHYLENE CHLORIDE. Clearly your body man does not know chemistry. Anther POOR ATTEMPT at 'fear tactics '. Just saying.
Agree with others here, your body man is confused. Baking soda will neutralize acid, but will do nothing with the stripper. I too stripped my own car 20 years ago with Captain Lee's and cleaned up with the cheapest lacquer thinner I could buy.
No problems after all these years.
Last edited by project63; Jun 17, 2017 at 06:46 PM.
I used dubs method after talking to him. Kleen strip Aircraft Stripper. Squeegee. About 3' square at a time. Follow up with lacquer thinner. Beautiful.
Still the worse part of painting one, but beautiful.
I used dubs method after talking to him. Kleen strip Aircraft Stripper. Squeegee. About 3' square at a time. Follow up with lacquer thinner. Beautiful.
Still the worse part of painting one, but beautiful.
That's what I've been using for 30+ years. I've done several cars and have never had a problem. That includes my 60 that I did in the mid 80's that still looks great.
That's what I've been using for 30+ years. I've done several cars and have never had a problem. That includes my 60 that I did in the mid 80's that still looks great.
OT but- Jeff? You're back! It's been a few months I hope My memory is good!
My prior body/paint man (Bill Headley, Upland Ca) used this same basic method and he probably did several hundred Corvettes.
He would mask off a small area, like one-fourth of the hood, hit it with yellow aircraft stripper, scrape off most of the goo with a bondo paddle, hit it with a copper scrub pad (no rust risk), and finish with LT wipe. Says he never had a return with this method.
Because the aircraft stripper is so hot (mucho methylene chloride) the working time is shorter with minimal penetration into the glass/resin matrix. Which is a good thing!
I used Rustoleum paint stripper recently and was impressed with how well it worked. It's about $25.00 per gallon from summit racing. It works far better than the aircraft stripper that local auto parts stores sell.