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Burning up Points and Condensor

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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 12:45 PM
  #41  
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The NAPA (Echlin) "IC" coils are cheap, reliable replacements or good for 'hot' spares.
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Old Jul 28, 2017 | 10:57 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Old Pervette
Yes Verne, I disconnected the pink wire on either end.
Are you setting the dwell when replacing the points?

Dan
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Old Jul 31, 2017 | 05:18 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by dplotkin
Are you setting the dwell when replacing the points?

Dan
Always. I have an extra distributor core that I manually bench set the point gap on before installing them. Once its running I fine tune the timing, dwell, and idle.

After owning the car for 35 years, I finally got around to having her scored by NCRS (got TF) but you all have a point about saving the 202 coil for judging. This old girl is definitely no trailer queen. Hopefully next run she continues to pull strong without any further ignition failure....
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Old Jul 31, 2017 | 10:40 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Old Pervette
Hopefully next run she continues to pull strong without any further ignition failure....
Love to see a photo of the burned points. I'm comfortable condemning the coil, assuming you are replacing the condenser each time. A slightly shorted primary winding could pull more juice than the points tolerate yet I'd expect some running issues to accompany that scenario.

**** points are often talked about too, suppose that could be operative and you are obviously not a candidate for getting grease on the contact surfaces or otherwise munging up the installation. I'd be interested in knowing the amp reading through the primary circuit with points closed.

Dan
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 03:13 PM
  #45  
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I have never had any luck transferring and uploading photos to the forum. Honestly, the contacts on the points did not look that bad, but then a I replaced them as a set with the condenser so either could have actually been at fault.

As per the quality of the points, I don't know what brand Wilcox used, but when they burned out, I replaced the points and condenser with NAPA (Eichlin) components. They failed also. Right now I just have a set of good used ones I keep in the glovebox in it.

Someone stated in the thread that symptoms were 'classic of a coil that fails when it gets hot'. My question to that is would the (failed) coil still read good (i.e 1.85 and 11.99 ohms on primary and secondary) when cold? THAT is the million dollar question since this coil still reads good while cold.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 03:35 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Old Pervette
I have never had any luck transferring and uploading photos to the forum. Honestly, the contacts on the points did not look that bad, but then a I replaced them as a set with the condenser so either could have actually been at fault.

As per the quality of the points, I don't know what brand Wilcox used, but when they burned out, I replaced the points and condenser with NAPA (Eichlin) components. They failed also. Right now I just have a set of good used ones I keep in the glovebox in it.

Someone stated in the thread that symptoms were 'classic of a coil that fails when it gets hot'. My question to that is would the (failed) coil still read good (i.e 1.85 and 11.99 ohms on primary and secondary) when cold? THAT is the million dollar question since this coil still reads good while cold.
When the coil gets hot, things expand.. cracks widen... things short out, and problems present themselves.

When the coil is cool, things are back to normal.. cracks minimize, and testing will often show perfect results.

Been there, done that... with Corvettes, and with other cars back in the day.
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Old Aug 4, 2017 | 11:19 PM
  #47  
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Awesome. I will be back if it turns out the problem resurfaces, otherwise thanks to all who so graciously contributed!

Cheers n' gears
Mike
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 09:12 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff
When the coil gets hot, things expand.. cracks widen... things short out, and problems present themselves.

When the coil is cool, things are back to normal.. cracks minimize, and testing will often show perfect results.

Been there, done that... with Corvettes, and with other cars back in the day.
Chasing my bad coil last year drove me nuts.

Turns out the "hot coil" syndrome above was my problem, but the key for mine was not underhood heat, but resistive loss heat (I2R losses for you electricians out there).

Mine ran great at idle (initially), but after long runs at highway speeds (with 4.11:1 gears that means 3000rpm), any attempt to "blast" up to higher rams was met with an intermittent bucking. Running into higher rpms was not a problem when the engine (and coil) was cold.

As the coil progressively got worse, the time to dropping out (engine bucking) shorter and the rpm at which bucking occurred became lower, until it almost entirely gave up. Right before I figured it out, it would only work when completely cooled off and only for short periods of time.

I've replaced a lot of coils over the years, but never had one go out so slowly, so progressively, and so clearly tied to heat, mostly electrical heat.

Just logging this in in case someone comes along in the future with similar symptoms - it had me stumped until the end.

Last edited by Easy Rhino; Sep 29, 2017 at 09:13 AM.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 09:23 AM
  #49  
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Intermittent coil and bulkhead connector problems are the WORST IMO. Followed closely by vapor lock and perc (which are easier to identify but just as tough to fix)..
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 09:25 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Intermittent coil and bulkhead connector problems are the WORST IMO. Followed closely by vapor lock and perc (which are easier to identify but just as tough to fix)..
Pretty much agree with that list.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 01:25 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Easy Rhino
I've replaced a lot of coils over the years, but never had one go out so slowly, so progressively, and so clearly tied to heat, mostly electrical heat.
Glad you got it sorted out.. but heat is heat.. doesn't matter what the source of the heat is.. and obviously, the running temp of the coil is a combination of it's internal heat plus environmental (underhood) heat.

Dwell controls the duty cycle of the coil. More dwell = more heat. I see that someone asked you about dwell, but I didn't see an answer.

[edit] I see you did answer.. but what value?
[2nd edit] It wasn't you.. it was the OP.. so the question stands..

Last edited by SDVette; Sep 29, 2017 at 04:03 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2021 | 05:22 PM
  #52  
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Nevermind...old post.

Last edited by Corn Fed; Feb 19, 2021 at 05:28 PM.
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