[C1] Need some Help...
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Army
You have to decide how original you want to keep things. You have a tach driven by the generator so a distributor swap wouldn't be such a problem.
I dropped a complete Pertronix distributor in my '61 and it worked perfectly, provided an electronic points conversion and worked with the ignition shielding.
With an HEI you can kiss that center ignition shielding goodbye (one of the distinctive features of a C1 engine bay IMO).
If you ball up some tin foil and tape it to various areas of the air cleaner and close the hood it will tell you how much hood clearance you have to play with. Trust me, it isn't much. The technique is similar to what I show here to check my air conditioning compressor clearance.
These cars do not have a PCV system originally, they use a road draft tube to scavenge the crankcase vapors at the rear of the block - I don't think you will lose that function if you swap intake/carb....but I could be wrong. PCV systems were introduced as factory standard in '63 except for option RPO-242 on '61 California cars.
Frankly, I would rebuild the WCFB if needed, get some unmolested valve covers (repros are available), get rid of that rubber hose in the fuel pump-to-carb line (repro, correct 'hard' lines are available), tune the car up and drive the snot out of it.
I dropped a complete Pertronix distributor in my '61 and it worked perfectly, provided an electronic points conversion and worked with the ignition shielding.
With an HEI you can kiss that center ignition shielding goodbye (one of the distinctive features of a C1 engine bay IMO).
If you ball up some tin foil and tape it to various areas of the air cleaner and close the hood it will tell you how much hood clearance you have to play with. Trust me, it isn't much. The technique is similar to what I show here to check my air conditioning compressor clearance.
These cars do not have a PCV system originally, they use a road draft tube to scavenge the crankcase vapors at the rear of the block - I don't think you will lose that function if you swap intake/carb....but I could be wrong. PCV systems were introduced as factory standard in '63 except for option RPO-242 on '61 California cars.
Frankly, I would rebuild the WCFB if needed, get some unmolested valve covers (repros are available), get rid of that rubber hose in the fuel pump-to-carb line (repro, correct 'hard' lines are available), tune the car up and drive the snot out of it.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 21, 2017 at 03:40 PM.
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I dont trust the car...4 times my dad in law have had to come out somewhere and tow me back to the shop.
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It is running very very bad. Its been parked in a barn for 16 years until this sommer. And it has been in and out of shops ever since.... My usual mechanic who is an elderly man, has given up. The carb has been cleaned 2 times and severel bits in it has been replaced. But it still cruises like a kangaroo and either dies in idle or run at 1000rpm.
I dont trust the car...4 times my dad in law have had to come out somewhere and tow me back to the shop.
I dont trust the car...4 times my dad in law have had to come out somewhere and tow me back to the shop.
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If it's the original carb you might want to send it to someone in the states that knows what he's doing.
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I doubt if it's the original engine but check the numbers. Finned covers and they don't look to be staggered bolt configuration for a 58.
Last edited by Geralds57; Sep 21, 2017 at 06:30 PM.
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I took my father's car out of storage 4 years ago. It had sat for 40 years. I have found that rebuilding/restoring the original parts is often the best path - not only to preserve the value of originality, but also you will find that modern reproduction parts are not made with the same quality as originals.
Lots of things can make a car run poorly. Have you checked the valve clearances? Spark plugs? Points? Fuel tank and lines (for rust, crud)? Old gas? Has a compression test been done?
It also appears you have an oil leak causing a puddle on the manifold.
Last edited by SDVette; Sep 21, 2017 at 05:41 PM.
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We all want smooth and reliable.
I took my father's car out of storage 4 years ago. It had sat for 40 years. I have found that rebuilding/restoring the original parts is often the best path - not only to preserve the value of originality, but also you will find that modern reproduction parts are not made with the same quality as originals.
Lots of things can make a car run poorly. Have you checked the valve clearances? Spark plugs? Points? Fuel tank and lines (for rust, crud)? Old gas? Has a compression test been done?
It also appears you have an oil leak causing a puddle on the manifold.
I took my father's car out of storage 4 years ago. It had sat for 40 years. I have found that rebuilding/restoring the original parts is often the best path - not only to preserve the value of originality, but also you will find that modern reproduction parts are not made with the same quality as originals.
Lots of things can make a car run poorly. Have you checked the valve clearances? Spark plugs? Points? Fuel tank and lines (for rust, crud)? Old gas? Has a compression test been done?
It also appears you have an oil leak causing a puddle on the manifold.
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The plugs are new. And he fitted a gas filter right Before the carb to catch any dirt.
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Army
That is NOT the right carb - that is for a later 62 or even a 63 as it has the fresh air tube at the passenger side at the rear of the air horn and doesn't have the brass vent tubes arching over the throttle bores. Besides being way over priced. Your carb should be a 2669S WCFB Carter with an air horn number of 6-1354 and a main body number of 0-208 or 0-1208, but, nearly any of the later C1 single carbs (not dual quads) can work on your car.
This is a 1957 Corvette carburetor but it may be as close as you can get...pricey but appears to be a quality rebuild: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-Chevrol...1ZnvPe&vxp=mtr
The fuel filter is inside the big fitting on the fuel inlet in the air horn on WCFBs. Its a sintered bronze filter - you may want to take that off to see if it needs cleaned out (note the direction of the filter and spring - they only go in one way).. You do NOT need that external filter and rubber fuel line.
Your problem may be as simple as a stuck choke based on your symptoms.
This is a 1957 Corvette carburetor but it may be as close as you can get...pricey but appears to be a quality rebuild: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-Chevrol...1ZnvPe&vxp=mtr
The fuel filter is inside the big fitting on the fuel inlet in the air horn on WCFBs. Its a sintered bronze filter - you may want to take that off to see if it needs cleaned out (note the direction of the filter and spring - they only go in one way).. You do NOT need that external filter and rubber fuel line.
Your problem may be as simple as a stuck choke based on your symptoms.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 22, 2017 at 09:19 AM.
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That is NOT the right carb - that is for a later 62 or even a 63 as it has the fresh air tube at the passenger side at the rear of the air horn and doesn't have the brass vent tubes arching over the throttle bores. Besides being way over priced. Your carb should be a 2669S WCFB Carter with an air horn number of 6-1354 and a main body number of 0-208 or 0-1208, but, nearly any of the later C1 single carbs (not dual quads) can work on your car.
This is a 1957 Corvette carburetor but it may be as close as you can get...pricey but appears to be a quality rebuild: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-Chevrol...1ZnvPe&vxp=mtr
The fuel filter is inside the big fitting on the fuel inlet in the air horn on WCFBs. Its a sintered bronze filter - you may want to take that off to see if it needs cleaned out (note the direction of the filter and spring - they only go in one way).. You do NOT need that external filter and rubber fuel line.
Your problem may be as simple as a stuck choke based on your symptoms.
This is a 1957 Corvette carburetor but it may be as close as you can get...pricey but appears to be a quality rebuild: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-Chevrol...1ZnvPe&vxp=mtr
The fuel filter is inside the big fitting on the fuel inlet in the air horn on WCFBs. Its a sintered bronze filter - you may want to take that off to see if it needs cleaned out (note the direction of the filter and spring - they only go in one way).. You do NOT need that external filter and rubber fuel line.
Your problem may be as simple as a stuck choke based on your symptoms.
Last edited by Sovsen; Sep 22, 2017 at 09:02 AM.
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Army
It can probably be made to work; I looked at the web site, I don't know why they call it a 1958 specific carb when the picture is clearly NOT a '58 carb. These vendors have third parties that do the specialist work so there is nothing unique about buying it through Corvette Central. Why would you pay more for this clearly wrong carb than the more correct '57 carb I included above for less money ? Unless they don't ship overseas.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 22, 2017 at 09:01 AM.
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That is about as 'hosed up' as you can get. Its not original, don't think its even a Carter carburetor. It looks huge and you may well be over-carbed...resulting in bog and poor performance. Looking at that, you need to make sure your intake manifold is original before you go buying a carb. The WCFBs have small bores and the manifolds are unique.
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That is about as 'hosed up' as you can get. Its not original, don't think its even a Carter carburetor. It looks huge and you may well be over-carbed...resulting in bog and poor performance. Looking at that, you need to make sure your intake manifold is original before you go buying a carb. The WCFBs have small bores and the manifolds are unique.
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Can any one tell me what carburetor will fit on the intake under a Rochester like this ? Someone clearly made some changes on this car in the past... I dont have the time to take of the carb. We are in a hurry, cause my dad in law is going to the States next month to visit Hersheys. And he need the parts to be ordered and delivered to a friend called Bob who trades vintage cars. From there they will load a container and ship to Denmark...
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Army
Needs to go ? Why? Is a Rochester like this one a bad match for a 58 Vette ? But your right, id needs to go, because it dosent work....
Can any one tell me what carburetor will fit on the intake under a Rochester like this ? Someone clearly made some changes on this car in the past... I dont have the time to take of the carb. We are in a hurry, cause my dad in law is going to the States next month to visit Hersheys. And he need the parts to be ordered and delivered to a friend called Bob who trades vintage cars. From there they will load a container and ship to Denmark...
Can any one tell me what carburetor will fit on the intake under a Rochester like this ? Someone clearly made some changes on this car in the past... I dont have the time to take of the carb. We are in a hurry, cause my dad in law is going to the States next month to visit Hersheys. And he need the parts to be ordered and delivered to a friend called Bob who trades vintage cars. From there they will load a container and ship to Denmark...
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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Before anyone else recomends parts we should first figure out what you have. Locate on the intake manifold and block the casting numbers of each. Then tell us if you don't mind keeping the intake if we can tell you what carb you need. If indeed you really want a new intake and carb set up someone can recommend that too. But the way you discribe is the carb and possible the timing is not set up correctly causing your problems. If that's really the case then throwing parts at it won't solve anything.