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With a very heavy heart and some embarrassment I have to report that this morning we discovered extensive corrosion on the top of the frame rails of my '66. I VERY carefully looked at the frame from a lift particularly in the well noted kickup areas for likely rust at time of purchase inspection. And no kidding I couldn't see any complete thru rust, just what seemed normal surface rust. Today in the process of lifting the body to replace/install correct bushings we found extensive thru rust on the top of the frame rails. The guy doing the front end repair tried to console me that these rusted thru areas were well hidden by the body, side pipes, etc. That somewhat soothes my ego, but suspect now that hiring a professional to inspect this car might have found this.
The mounting list of "oh crap" discoveries is definitely taking a bite out of the ole enthusiasm. I'm having deja vu moments from that famous Tom Hanks movie (which I won't name for fear of further upsetting C2 restoration mojo).
So... gonna just slap myself a few times, look around at all I have to be thankful for, take a deep breath, and find another frame... crap.
All frame offers or ideas welcome. Happy New Year.
I am surprised they" can sale and charge so much" for an unfinished product. A product that will start rusting inside & outside in matter of days after being made. Does anybody sale a new and properly finished Corvette Frame product? What a Gimmick.
It's not a "gimmick". Careful, your lack of knowledge of manufacturing and its costs is showing again. What do you suppose Neal spent for that first convoy of 60 heavy-duty lowboy trucks and all the wide-load convoy permits to get that first batch of GM frame part stamping dies he bought from Milwaukee to Detroit and the riggers at each end to load and unload and properly store each 65,000-pound die set? If he hadn't taken that $$$ risk 40 years ago with cold cash on the barrel head, we wouldn't have those brand-new frames today, and Neal wouldn't be able to buy the press time at the major stamping plants to make parts as needed to make complete frames.
Sorry to hear, be careful, I now wish I could have been with you on the purchase, from this point on you may have more in the car than its value.
I believe it always best to repair the original frame if possible, vette products of Michigan sells all the parts to repair the original or can supply a new frame if needed. Your old frame is serial numbered to the car.
I don't know cost but I would consider getting a new repo frame. If there is rust there, then could be other places inside frame that you can not see and only show up later when car is back together.
I feel your pain. Just bought a 65 convertible in Oct 2017 and it has been full of surprises...thankfully a good frame, so far anyways.
Saw two rolling chassis on FleeBay around Xmas. Might have saved the ad, if so, I will PM you their contact info, just in case. I will also check with a local friend. He might have a bare frame ???
Sorry to hear, be careful, I now wish I could have been with you on the purchase, from this point on you may have more in the car than its value.
I believe it always best to repair the original frame if possible, vette products of Michigan sells all the parts to repair the original or can supply a new frame if needed. Your old frame is serial numbered to the car.
Yeah Bill. Your airfare and time would have been an inexpensive investment. But I also wish I had bought Microsoft stock in 1987. Gotta spare frame layin' around?
Don't kick your self too hard - it happens. Surprising that it is rusting through the top - that's kind of unusual. Did the car spend some time upside down some where.
If rusted through on the top I wouldn't worry about losing your stamped serial number. It's probably long ago obliterated by rust. It's not cheap but I would try to spring for a reproduction frame and transfer all of your running gear and suspension to it. You will save by buying a used frame but unless it's from someone you know and trust, you can almost never be sure. I don't think I would use a used frame without first having it put on a frame machine and checked/squared. By the time you buy it, ship it, check it, sandblast/dip it and paint it, you may not be saving a lot.
If you can come up with a nice, used, solid frame from someone who knows it's history and you know and will stand behind it - then go for it.
And, if it is just the main boxed chassis member rails (at and ahead of the kickups) that are rusted and if you have some welding skills and equipment, repairing it yourself with replica members is definitely an inexpensive way out.
Last edited by DansYellow66; Jan 3, 2018 at 01:29 PM.
Yeah Bill. Your airfare and time would have been an inexpensive investment. But I also wish I had bought Microsoft stock in 1987. Gotta spare frame layin' around?
check out vette products of Michigan, a lot of the resale vendors use them as a supplier.
First you need someone to closely inspect your frame and then make a decision to repair or replace, You can get a new frame under $5k with body shop discounts. I have replaced frame sections before, not a big deal if you have a qualified welder.
As some others have said be very careful buying a used frame, I would either repair mine or replace with a correct repo frame.
I'm inclined to agree with you Dan. Several grand difference between a used and repo frame is quite frankly in the noise of this "refresh". The engine is getting a pretty big bump in Hp so from a safety standpoint, really glad we found it now.
As requested a few pics. These areas were mostly hidden by the side pipes. You can see daylight and I never saw this from under the car. Warning to other newbies.
VERY good thank heavens! Go figure. All windshield and trim and dash removed for paint so all is clearly exposed. It's in great shape. Fiberglass from firewall back in very good shape. Up until this morning my body guy, who's done MANY vettes, said except for the front end it was a very solid car. Course he hadn't had it up on a lift until today.
After I bought it I found our the car was first sold in Wisconsin. First half of it's life was in salt country and it accumulated on the frame top surfaces. Yep. I can see why CA cars are prized.
I'm inclined to agree with you Dan. Several grand difference between a used and repo frame is quite frankly in the noise of this "refresh". The engine is getting a pretty big bump in Hp so from a safety standpoint, really glad we found it now.
Seeing your pictures, I'd spring for a new frame. If it's rotted like that in that place, it's half rotted somewhere else.
Just think, maiden run, new high HP engine, grab second gear and the whole sob folds up on you right behind where you sit! In front of friends and relatives.
I am making a little fun but I'm serious. I'm pretty frugal but that's the way I'd go.
After I bought it I found our the car was first sold in Wisconsin. First half of it's life was in salt country and it accumulated on the frame top surfaces. Yep. I can see why CA cars are prized.
Yeah, that salt slush collected and froze on top of the frame rails and slowly melted and lefts the salt behind to do its evil.
FWIW, cars that come from cold country that did't use salt on the roads, don't have frame rust, the cold inhibits rust from forming.
Easy for me to say, but WOW, how in the world did you not see that rust. Yes, it is a lesson for anyone buying an old corvette of any year. Take someone of knowledge with you before buying car.