Backfeed through ignition switch
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Kannapolis NC
Team Owner
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Army
There is only the horn relay and the voltage regulator in that area unless somebody added headlight relays or electric fans....
The horn relay buss ia a popular (and correct) location for accessory feeds so the latter situation could be the case...
A finger placed on either device while connecting the battery should tell you what is activating while connecting the battery....or disconnecting power from the device to see which one does NOT activate with power applied.
The A/C compressor is also in that general area and possibly being called to engage when power is applied - that can be quickly checked by pulling the bullet connector wire off the clutch.
The Vintage Air relays are in the same area under the dash as the evaporator on most installs...
The horn relay buss ia a popular (and correct) location for accessory feeds so the latter situation could be the case...
A finger placed on either device while connecting the battery should tell you what is activating while connecting the battery....or disconnecting power from the device to see which one does NOT activate with power applied.
The A/C compressor is also in that general area and possibly being called to engage when power is applied - that can be quickly checked by pulling the bullet connector wire off the clutch.
The Vintage Air relays are in the same area under the dash as the evaporator on most installs...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 10, 2018 at 04:56 AM.
Team Owner
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,239
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From: Whitehall New York
It was the voltage regulator that was clicking when the battery was turned on. Never done that before.
I brought the car to a mechanic and he feels that I have a bad ignition switch, as I first thought. Even the other two switches I ordered he feels are not working correctly. One was a Standard brand assembled in Mexico, and the other one was from Amazon also in a Standard box with a “made in China” sticker.
I am gonna look for a used ignition switch for a 63 or 64.
I brought the car to a mechanic and he feels that I have a bad ignition switch, as I first thought. Even the other two switches I ordered he feels are not working correctly. One was a Standard brand assembled in Mexico, and the other one was from Amazon also in a Standard box with a “made in China” sticker.
I am gonna look for a used ignition switch for a 63 or 64.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 17
From: Whitehall New York
To those that commented and were interested on the VA and its wiring: My Vintage Air is a first Generation and was wired off from the fuse box, not directly off the ignition switch. I never got a chance to get it working as I sold it soon after. I bought the car back last year and one of the previous owners had found the right pulleys for the 400 small block to finish the job.
The only problem is no heat. It only blows cold! I assume the problem to be an actuator door in the heater box. I think it may need a physical adjustment (there are no servos). If anyone has another explanation, I am always open for suggestions.
Can these be upgraded to a GEN IV? system
Thanks again!
Brian
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,169
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From: Kannapolis NC
I think so too. So I am getting another opinion this Friday. It's hard to describe the symptoms on here. Thanks to everyone that chimed in with advice.
To those that commented and were interested on the VA and its wiring: My Vintage Air is a first Generation and was wired off from the fuse box, not directly off the ignition switch. I never got a chance to get it working as I sold it soon after. I bought the car back last year and one of the previous owners had found the right pulleys for the 400 small block to finish the job.
The only problem is no heat. It only blows cold! I assume the problem to be an actuator door in the heater box. I think it may need a physical adjustment (there are no servos). If anyone has another explanation, I am always open for suggestions.
Can these be upgraded to a GEN IV? system
Thanks again!
Brian
To those that commented and were interested on the VA and its wiring: My Vintage Air is a first Generation and was wired off from the fuse box, not directly off the ignition switch. I never got a chance to get it working as I sold it soon after. I bought the car back last year and one of the previous owners had found the right pulleys for the 400 small block to finish the job.
The only problem is no heat. It only blows cold! I assume the problem to be an actuator door in the heater box. I think it may need a physical adjustment (there are no servos). If anyone has another explanation, I am always open for suggestions.
Can these be upgraded to a GEN IV? system
Thanks again!
Brian
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: Whitehall New York
Update
My wife Audrey and “Barbara Ann”.
Finally found the culprit to the electrical problem in my car. Turns out the alternator, which once had a generator in place, was the culprit.
Thanks to all who responded with your great ideas as to what the problem could’ve been. Can’t tell you how much I’ve always appreciated the knowledge of Corvetteforum members.
Last edited by Brian; Oct 31, 2018 at 11:27 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: Michigan
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
Here is an ignition switch question: While replacing gauge switches it appears they no longer make the 1965 ignition switch.
Is there a Universal Ignition Switch with Key, that will work on the 1965 Dash Gauge Cluster?
Not interested correctness for judging purpose, just something that will work. My only other option would be a push-button start....not too keen about that.
Is there a Universal Ignition Switch with Key, that will work on the 1965 Dash Gauge Cluster?
Not interested correctness for judging purpose, just something that will work. My only other option would be a push-button start....not too keen about that.
Last edited by CorvetteMikeB; Nov 5, 2018 at 01:55 PM. Reason: new sentence
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 17
From: Whitehall New York
Here is an ignition switch question: While replacing gauge switches it appears they no longer make the 1965 ignition switch.
Is there a Universal Ignition Switch with Key, that will work on the 1965 Dash Gauge Cluster?
Not interested correctness for judging purpose, just something that will work. My only other option would be a push-button start....not too keen about that.
Is there a Universal Ignition Switch with Key, that will work on the 1965 Dash Gauge Cluster?
Not interested correctness for judging purpose, just something that will work. My only other option would be a push-button start....not too keen about that.
I don’t believe they make any of the switches anymore. If you can find a new old stock, that would be best. I’ve tried using replacement parts and have found that they do not work well.
I am not sure if the plug-in connector on the 65 ignition is anything like the 64. I do have a 64 new old stock ignition I just removed from the box (pictured above).
Of course this didn’t solve my problem, but it is an authentic new old stock switch. Just not sure if it’ll fit your 65.
As I understand it the 63’s are also very rare
Last edited by Brian; Nov 7, 2018 at 06:25 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 494
From: Michigan
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
I don’t believe they make any of the switches anymore. If you can find a new old stock, that would be best. I’ve tried using replacement parts and have found that they do not work well.
I am not sure if the plug-in connector on the 65 ignition is anything like the 64. I do have a 64 new old stock ignition I just removed from the box (pictured above).
Of course this didn’t solve my problem, but it is an authentic new old stock switch. Just not sure if it’ll fit your 65.
As I understand it the 63’s are also very rare
Corvette Central told me the 1966 Corvette ignition switch and the 1966 Corvette ignition key will work on the 1965 Corvette dash cluster gauge,