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[C2] No Reverse - 1966 Muncie 4-speed

Old 11-30-2018, 06:07 PM
  #21  
GTOguy
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One of these ought to take care of the problem.......(shifter pictured is for a C1, but is a Hurst nonetheless)
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Old 11-30-2018, 06:09 PM
  #22  
65GGvert
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Originally Posted by GTOguy View Post

One of these ought to take care of the problem.......(shifter pictured is for a C1, but is a Hurst nonetheless)
For a 25 cent set screw.
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Old 11-30-2018, 06:44 PM
  #23  
MikeM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert View Post
Probably, but again, the little bend is not what adjusts it. It's the set screw that tightens against the rod at the top
Well, not to beat it to death..............................

The "bend" establishes the height of the pin away from the blocker pin in the linkage. If the bend relaxes, it will not pull the pin high enough to clear the blocker pin in the linkage.

The set screw only assures the pin will drop all the way back down when you relieve the T Handle to make sure you have a "lock out".

You don't need to spend $400+ on a Hurst shifter to fix this problem.
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Old 11-30-2018, 07:00 PM
  #24  
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Ok, think I got it and will mess with it tomorrow. Life got in the way today!

Hopefully the easy fix!

Thanks, all.....really appreciate the help. Had read that there was a change to the shifter (thinking the '66 run). Still wouldn't have thought about a missing set screw as I don't believe I've seen one in any of the repair kits?

Will report back soon.........
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Old 11-30-2018, 07:06 PM
  #25  
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If your resourceful you can make something work from the hardware store. I do know Paragon sells everything you need.
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Old 11-30-2018, 07:15 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MikeM View Post
Well, not to beat it to death..............................

The "bend" establishes the height of the pin away from the blocker pin in the linkage. If the bend relaxes, it will not pull the pin high enough to clear the blocker pin in the linkage.

The set screw only assures the pin will drop all the way back down when you relieve the T Handle to make sure you have a "lock out".

You don't need to spend $400+ on a Hurst shifter to fix this problem.
That was not the case on any of my 65's. The set screw held the lockout rod at a fixed place in the t handle and then when you released it, the spring pushed the whole lockout ***'y back down to block reverse. It did not slide freely like the new version, which the OP doesn't have.
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Old 11-30-2018, 07:19 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert View Post
That was not the case on any of my 65's. The set screw held the lockout rod at a fixed place in the t handle and then when you released it, the spring pushed the whole lockout ***'y back down to block reverse. It did not slide freely like the new version, which the OP doesn't have.
mike for once I am not going to agree with you. His discription fits how the ones I worked on worked The bend at the top acts more like a fail safe if the set screw fails so the rod canít fall all the way down. The mid year lock out rod design is much better then the cable design used on other passinger cars
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Old 11-30-2018, 07:29 PM
  #28  
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Did you even try what I recommended back in post #10? No disassembly...no cost...try it. This is a known issue with these transmissions.
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Old 11-30-2018, 07:29 PM
  #29  
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I think you two are missing the point as it pertains to the OP's problem or you are ignoring what I said about the "bend" straigthening out above the "T" handle and letting the pin/cable/rod drop too low.

But, that's okay. Maybe he can fix it now with all the info he got.

The design change from the cable/pin to the solid rod was made to prevent inadvertent engagement to reverse due to the pin/cable not being forced back down against the blocker pin in the shifter. That was just one of the four design changes made to this shifter during production.

Last edited by MikeM; 11-30-2018 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 11-30-2018, 07:57 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by MikeM View Post
I think you two are missing the point as it pertains to the OP's problem or you are ignoring what I said about the "bend" straigthening out above the "T" handle and letting the pin/cable/rod drop too low.

But, that's okay. Maybe he can fix it now with all the info he got.

The design change from the cable/pin to the solid rod was made to prevent inadvertent engagement to reverse due to the pin/cable not being forced back down against the blocker pin in the shifter. That was just one of the four design changes made to this shifter during production.

Mike I think I get that but the set screw holds the hole rod in place so it moves with the T
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Old 12-06-2018, 02:38 AM
  #31  
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Sorry for the slow response, guys. I tried the shifter without the t-handle on and the rod out. Still locked out of reverse. Also, tried letting the engine warm up to normal and that didn't work either. So, I'm gonna set aside some time to get it jacked up properly and safely so I can spend some time checking out the linkage and that lock out area. Gotta be something there!

Thanks again for all the suggestions!
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:57 AM
  #32  
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Make sure the rod you pulled out is intact. If the end broke off it'll still be laying down in there and locking it out of the gate. See my picture in the earlier post with the arrow at the bottom showing what it.looks like.
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Old 12-06-2018, 10:35 AM
  #33  
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Post #9.
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Old 12-06-2018, 02:23 PM
  #34  
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I would say go back to post #2. Have you tried getting under the car and manually pushing the reverse lever on the transmission into gear? I would even drop the rod off of it if it doesn't go right in to reverse and try that.
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