[C2] No Reverse - 1966 Muncie 4-speed
11-30-2018, 05:07 PM
#21
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One of these ought to take care of the problem.......(shifter pictured is for a C1, but is a Hurst nonetheless)
11-30-2018, 05:09 PM
#22
Team Owner
11-30-2018, 05:44 PM
#23
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The "bend" establishes the height of the pin away from the blocker pin in the linkage. If the bend relaxes, it will not pull the pin high enough to clear the blocker pin in the linkage.
The set screw only assures the pin will drop all the way back down when you relieve the T Handle to make sure you have a "lock out".
You don't need to spend $400+ on a Hurst shifter to fix this problem.
11-30-2018, 06:00 PM
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok, think I got it and will mess with it tomorrow. Life got in the way today!
Hopefully the easy fix!
Thanks, all.....really appreciate the help. Had read that there was a change to the shifter (thinking the '66 run). Still wouldn't have thought about a missing set screw as I don't believe I've seen one in any of the repair kits?
Will report back soon.........
Hopefully the easy fix!
Thanks, all.....really appreciate the help. Had read that there was a change to the shifter (thinking the '66 run). Still wouldn't have thought about a missing set screw as I don't believe I've seen one in any of the repair kits?
Will report back soon.........
11-30-2018, 06:06 PM
#25
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If your resourceful you can make something work from the hardware store. I do know Paragon sells everything you need.
11-30-2018, 06:15 PM
#26
Team Owner
Well, not to beat it to death..............................
The "bend" establishes the height of the pin away from the blocker pin in the linkage. If the bend relaxes, it will not pull the pin high enough to clear the blocker pin in the linkage.
The set screw only assures the pin will drop all the way back down when you relieve the T Handle to make sure you have a "lock out".
You don't need to spend $400+ on a Hurst shifter to fix this problem.
The "bend" establishes the height of the pin away from the blocker pin in the linkage. If the bend relaxes, it will not pull the pin high enough to clear the blocker pin in the linkage.
The set screw only assures the pin will drop all the way back down when you relieve the T Handle to make sure you have a "lock out".
You don't need to spend $400+ on a Hurst shifter to fix this problem.
11-30-2018, 06:19 PM
#27
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That was not the case on any of my 65's. The set screw held the lockout rod at a fixed place in the t handle and then when you released it, the spring pushed the whole lockout ***'y back down to block reverse. It did not slide freely like the new version, which the OP doesn't have.
11-30-2018, 06:29 PM
#28
Le Mans Master
Did you even try what I recommended back in post #10? No disassembly...no cost...try it. This is a known issue with these transmissions.
11-30-2018, 06:29 PM
#29
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I think you two are missing the point as it pertains to the OP's problem or you are ignoring what I said about the "bend" straigthening out above the "T" handle and letting the pin/cable/rod drop too low.
But, that's okay. Maybe he can fix it now with all the info he got.
The design change from the cable/pin to the solid rod was made to prevent inadvertent engagement to reverse due to the pin/cable not being forced back down against the blocker pin in the shifter. That was just one of the four design changes made to this shifter during production.
But, that's okay. Maybe he can fix it now with all the info he got.
The design change from the cable/pin to the solid rod was made to prevent inadvertent engagement to reverse due to the pin/cable not being forced back down against the blocker pin in the shifter. That was just one of the four design changes made to this shifter during production.
Last edited by MikeM; 11-30-2018 at 06:32 PM.
11-30-2018, 06:57 PM
#30
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I think you two are missing the point as it pertains to the OP's problem or you are ignoring what I said about the "bend" straigthening out above the "T" handle and letting the pin/cable/rod drop too low.
But, that's okay. Maybe he can fix it now with all the info he got.
The design change from the cable/pin to the solid rod was made to prevent inadvertent engagement to reverse due to the pin/cable not being forced back down against the blocker pin in the shifter. That was just one of the four design changes made to this shifter during production.
But, that's okay. Maybe he can fix it now with all the info he got.
The design change from the cable/pin to the solid rod was made to prevent inadvertent engagement to reverse due to the pin/cable not being forced back down against the blocker pin in the shifter. That was just one of the four design changes made to this shifter during production.
Mike I think I get that but the set screw holds the hole rod in place so it moves with the T
12-06-2018, 01:38 AM
#31
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sorry for the slow response, guys. I tried the shifter without the t-handle on and the rod out. Still locked out of reverse. Also, tried letting the engine warm up to normal and that didn't work either. So, I'm gonna set aside some time to get it jacked up properly and safely so I can spend some time checking out the linkage and that lock out area. Gotta be something there!
Thanks again for all the suggestions!
Thanks again for all the suggestions!
12-06-2018, 06:57 AM
#32
Team Owner
Make sure the rod you pulled out is intact. If the end broke off it'll still be laying down in there and locking it out of the gate. See my picture in the earlier post with the arrow at the bottom showing what it.looks like.
12-06-2018, 09:35 AM
#33
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Post #9.
12-06-2018, 01:23 PM
#34
Race Director
I would say go back to post #2. Have you tried getting under the car and manually pushing the reverse lever on the transmission into gear? I would even drop the rod off of it if it doesn't go right in to reverse and try that.