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Believe me when I say that I am probably the last one on this forum that will be offended by anything printed here!
PS. The price you were given for a stock rebuild sounded okay if someone else did all the work. Don't know why a guy would need all that hot rod stuff.
Mike, if you're referring to the roller cam and head work, I felt it was necessary because I will be dropping the compression from 11.0 to 9.5 or preferably 9.8. I don't want to have a wus of an engine simply because I want to burn unleaded gas...I know this will start another futile argument, but that's the way I feel.
Bob
Those near me in the South Bay may know of Rear End Specialties. They did a great job on the 'vette Posi I put in my '56 Bel Air.
When I lived in the Bay Area, Rear End Specialties did a 4.11 to 3.55 conversion for the diff in my '60. That was, geeezz, 25 - 30 years and thousands of miles ago. Never a problem.
[QUOTE=6T2Vette;1598456410]Mike, if you're referring to the roller cam and head work, I felt it was necessary because I will be dropping the compression from 11.0 to 9.5 or preferably 9.8. I don't want to have a wus of an engine simply because I want to burn unleaded gas...I know this will start another futile argument, but that's the way I feel.
Bob[/QUOTE
I would just put aluminum heads on it and then you don’t have to worry about the compression and can run unleaded fuel.
Mike, if you're referring to the roller cam and head work, I felt it was necessary because I will be dropping the compression from 11.0 to 9.5 or preferably 9.8. I don't want to have a wus of an engine simply because I want to burn unleaded gas...I know this will start another futile argument, but that's the way I feel.
Bob[/QUOTE
I would just put aluminum heads on it and then you don’t have to worry about the compression and can run unleaded fuel.
You would, I could, but I won't. :-)
Can't wait 'til I see those camel backs on that block with black Rams horns, and polished valve covers, intake, dis shield and rebuilt Carter AFB, with the bright shiny aluminum T10 right behind it.
Bob
Yep Muttley, tip of the iceberg is correct. The rest is 95% ice. No thanks. I just went through that. I will clean up the car, but I have no interest in a full frame off restoration. I am interested in restoring back to original condition and paint those parts I need to fix or replace. I have all the major parts for the interior. The suspension will be cleaned up and left as is unless it needs to be painted. Are the "A" arms painted? The engine bay will be painted in a black semi gloss...original or not!
This is my current project...95% of the iceberg almost gone.
Bob
You would, I could, but I won't. :-)
Can't wait 'til I see those camel backs on that block with black Rams horns, and polished valve covers, intake, dis shield and rebuilt Carter AFB, with the bright shiny aluminum T10 right behind it.
Bob
are you aware that there is a company that makes aluminum heads with the camel hump identifiers on the end of the head? They are pretty hard to tell difference in them from the old factory heads but they produce a considerable amount Of more horsepower.
are you aware that there is a company that makes aluminum heads with the camel hump identifiers on the end of the head? They are pretty hard to tell difference in them from the old factory heads but they produce a considerable amount Of more horsepower.
Yep, I've heard of them. They must think pretty highly of the originals to make copies of them.
Bob
Yep, I've heard of them. They must think pretty highly of the originals to make copies of them.
Bob
Trick Flow. It's not that they think so much of em, but answering a consumer interest in improved performance while keeping the factory appearance. (At least from a cursory glance). I spent a ton on a set of 461Xs, did everything you talked of (hard seats, screw in studs, etc. ). I now own one VERY expensive trotline weight due to the machine shop not being aware of how easy it is to get into the water jacket on these heads when cutting for 1.600 valves. I'm done screwing with 60 year old castings. Just threw a set of Edelbrock E-street aluminum heads on to get better performance at about the same price they charged me to redo the iron heads with premium components. We picked up 25 horsepower with just these entry level street performance heads. PS- I'm of the same mindset as you .....not interested in doing another $80,000 restoration. Driver quality for me from now forward Good luck 👍
Trick Flow. It's not that they think so much of em, but answering a consumer interest in improved performance while keeping the factory appearance. (At least from a cursory glance). I spent a ton on a set of 461Xs, did everything you talked of (hard seats, screw in studs, etc. ). I now own one VERY expensive trotline weight due to the machine shop not being aware of how easy it is to get into the water jacket on these heads when cutting for 1.600 valves. I'm done screwing with 60 year old castings. Just threw a set of Edelbrock E-street aluminum heads on to get better performance at about the same price they charged me to redo the iron heads with premium components. We picked up 25 horsepower with just these entry level street performance heads. PS- I'm of the same mindset as you .....not interested in doing another $80,000 restoration. Driver quality for me from now forward Good luck ��
Originally Posted by 6T2Vette
I know what you're saying, but who am I trying to fool? Myself? NOT! I'm sure there's a price to pay for this façade. I'm also on the verge of finishing the frame off restoration of a 1949 Olds 98 convertible. It's a restomod with a Chevy 5.3Lwith 4L60E transmission. I've added cold air intake and a set of Sanderson Headers. I'm definitely not out to fool anyone with what I have under the hood in this Olds. My Nomad has a Silverado 350 with a dress up kit, serpentine belt, and Sanderson headers. No disguise here either. I don't want to start this with the 'vette. I'll try to do the engine right, by asking for help in avoiding those common pitfalls. My block and my heads have been mag'd. I've talked to the machinist about the problems you've mentioned and he'll do only what perhaps should have been done at the factory to improve airflow.
Thanks for your input. I value it. I hope my machinist does a better job than yours did, as he's been forewarned.:-)
Bob
I do not understand why you would spend all that money on the motor and not go through the rear end! It doesn't sound like money is a problem. There are much cheaper ways to have a good running 327 on unleaded gas then your builder is suggesting!
I do not understand why you would spend all that money on the motor and not go through the rear end! It doesn't sound like money is a problem. There are much cheaper ways to have a good running 327 on unleaded gas then your builder is suggesting!
The engine is a done deal, 0.030 over, same steel crank, original double hump heads, Lunati 201207-LK roller cam with roller tip rocker arm assy, and hardened seats.
Transmission looks clean and numbers correct. The rear end is also numbers correct but the 4.11 Posi is either worn out or gummed up. I might just remove it and drop in an Eaton 3.56 and box up the original. Does that sound sane?
Bob
The engine is a done deal, 0.030 over, same steel crank, original double hump heads, Lunati 201207-LK roller cam with roller tip rocker arm assy, and hardened seats.
Transmission looks clean and numbers correct. The rear end is also numbers correct but the 4.11 Posi is either worn out or gummed up. I might just remove it and drop in an Eaton 3.56 and box up the original. Does that sound sane?
Bob
I don’t understand your fascination with that Lunanti roller cam given the rest of your engine build? It is very expensive and is not going to really give you any more power than a standard type cam set up. There are other places to put that money in the engine or elsewhere in the car that will serve you’re dollars better. Am I the only one here that thinks this?
I don’t understand your fascination with that Lunanti roller cam given the rest of your engine build? It is very expensive and is not going to really give you any more power than a standard type cam set up. There are other places to put that money in the engine or elsewhere in the car that will serve you’re dollars better. Am I the only one here that thinks this?
I don’t understand your fascination with that Lunanti roller cam given the rest of your engine build? It is very expensive and is not going to really give you any more power than a standard type cam set up. There are other places to put that money in the engine or elsewhere in the car that will serve you’re dollars better. Am I the only one here that thinks this?
OK guys, to reiterate, the engine is a done deal. The pistons have been ordered and they'll provide a CR of a little over 9.6:1. You guys are ragging on the roller cam set up, and make an unsubstantiated statement that it will provide little or no improvement over a Duntov spec'd cam, am I correct? Is this a speculation?
The expense is a no brainer, but it is not a budget breaker. Is there anyone out there that can substantiate your claim with facts? This is not an argument. I'd really like to know, because I was ragged on by another gentleman because I wasn't more aggressive with the cam setup. I am anxious to know as the cam won't arrive until after Xmas. I am not swapping heads...period! That would be too easy..
Bob
Bob,
If you should have any more questions, I would STRONGLY suggest that you ask them BEFORE throwing a bunch of money into a bottomless hole.
IF, IF, IF, you should decide that you want to have a higher gear ratio in your rearend (for lower rpm and better fuel economy on the hiway), you CANNOT, CANNOT, CANNOT put any 3-series gear set onto the 4-series posi unit in your car (I'm not talking the outer case, I'm talking about the internal posi unit). To switch to a higher gear ratio, such as a 3.55, 3.36, 3.08, it would be necessary to go with a 3-series (internal) posi unit. It's too bad that you are so far away. If you were near Okla City, and had the center section removed from the axle housing, I could take a look at it and go from there.
Oh ya--------------your transmission will be (or should be) a Borg-Warner ALUMINUM case T-10-----------------------THEY WERE NOT PAINTED FROM THE FACTORY, THEY WERE BARE ALUM!!! I would recommend telling them NOT to paint it----------------not even silver!
hi there I hope I’m not hijacking this thread but out of curiosity I got under my car and scraped the heavy grime off
to reveal the same P with triangle tab
my rearend will be going to someone in the early new year and I really don’t know much about them
when you say if I want to go to a higher gear ratio I would have to buy an aftermarket Posi to make it feasible ?
the majority of my driving with be around town but it will be on the hiway everyso often
what fear ratio is a good recommendation
i should mention this is a 1960
thanks
ps love the nomad
a guy locally here built a black/silver resomod that is killer
when you say if I want to go to a higher gear ratio I would have to buy an aftermarket Posi to make it feasible ?
the majority of my driving with be around town but it will be on the hiway everyso often
what fear ratio is a good recommendation
i should mention this is a 1960
thanks
ps love the nomad
a guy locally here built a black/silver resomod that is killer
That is exactly correct.
IF your rearend is now a 4.11 and you want to change to a higher geared ratio (3.08, 3.36, 3.55, 3.70) you CANNOT, repeat, CANNOT put a 3-series ring gear on a 4-series posi unit. Thus, to install a 3-series gear ratio in your existing rearend case, you would need to buy a 3-series posi unit.
As I mentioned in your PM, unless you are dead set on having a rearend case with the big P, then I'd search around the forums (such as the 58-64 sections of Chevytalk) or internet and locate a 57-64 pass car NON-POSI center section with a gear ratio to your liking. And then add an aftermarket posi unit (Eaton or Nitro Power Lock). The four 3-series gear ratios I listed are all that were available in these early rears.
I found a 1964 Bel Air Station Wagon that has a 10 bolt rear end. I don't know what the gear ratio is, but I'm wondering if this would be a good candidate. It would be a donor so I can afford to modify the inside and turn it into a posi 3rd member. I can buy and Eaton differential for about 600 bucks. How can I find or can anyone tell me if this is a good donor pumpkin?
Thanks,
Bob
12-06-2018, 06:52 PM
