Restomod my 1967
#21
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 49,010
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2015 C2 of Year Finalist
unless someone rebuilt it with BB RV parts or dump truck engine parts your engine must not be tuned correctly and set up right A freash rebuild of a BB with decent go fast parts in a light car like a Corvette should put a smile on your face. We just had a long thread debating that. If your comparing your 67 to your 13 then sell your 67 because unless you make a full resto mod with a new frame and new LT motor your never be happy. And that is about triple your 30k budget
#22
Burning Brakes
If I remember correctly the LS7 is 505 horsepower. A built 427 should easily hit or exceed the 505 horsepower! What was the starting HP of your 427 before rebuild? Only 400 HP after rebuild and adding high performance heads, roller cam and HEI??? Something wrong! What is the compression ratio on your 427? Did you use headers after rebuild? A single plane intake for the EFI?
#23
Safety Car
With your budget of 30k you can do a lot. I would suggest you contact Trey at StreetShop and discuss your project. They build a custom frame that accepts late model suspensions and they have everything figured out. I am planning one myself and I am going to sell the old frame to someone doing a "correct" resto. I would also suggest considering a LS small block engine instead of the big block. You can get a lot of HP from the LS. A great restoration shop here in michigan is Masterworks
The following users liked this post:
mike coletta (01-27-2019)
#24
Former Vendor
The following users liked this post:
appelen (02-24-2019)
#26
Former Vendor
I don't know Trey, I know of them and they buy DeWitts Radiators from time to time. I am wondering if these opinions are personal and not based on the product sold? Is the product good? If not, why? Trey may or may not be easy to work with or a nice guy, I really don't know him. What I do know is he has been doing conversion frames and kits longer than anyone on the list. The product has been on display at the major Corvette shows and it looks really good. I like the mandrel bent box style more than the tubular frame. The SRIII frames are nice and they also specialize in frames but as I said, I like the box frame better. Anyway, if there is a better frame (not company) I would like to know what it is and why it's better.
Corvette Correction (Unknown)
SRIII Motorsports (Tubular)
Roadster Shop (Piece fabbed)
Jamison (Tubular)
Jim Meyer (53-62)
Corvette Correction (Unknown)
SRIII Motorsports (Tubular)
Roadster Shop (Piece fabbed)
Jamison (Tubular)
Jim Meyer (53-62)
#27
Safety Car
i persinally prefer SRIII. Mike is a great guy and his chassis does not flex. Even the roadster shop chassis flexed in the rear. Art Morrison and roadster shop are 6 months out on production from what I’ve heard and the roadster shop chassis is around 33k with IRS and brakes. SRIII is probably a 3-4 month wait and the price is significantly less. You already have the suspension, but you will still need a different rear end. However, it’s worth the extra expense over using the stock center section. Feel free to PM me and I’ll send you my phone number if you’d like to discuss over the phone.
#28
Former Vendor
I don't PM because I monitor and participate in many forums. It is a lot easier to track, find, and reply through email. Messages come right to my phone.
tadewitt@dewitts.com
tadewitt@dewitts.com
#29
Melting Slicks
Tom, there are a lot of choices when it comes to aftermarket C2 chassis. Non are perfect. Each has their own advantages and disadvantages. Maybe start a thread and outline what attributes you want out of a new chassis and we can share our experiences accordingly.
#30
Former Vendor
A: I want a old car that rides and steers like a new car.
B: I want to be comfortable inside.
C: I do not want to change the body or get into any bodywork and paint.
I am 62 now and I can't do all the stuff I used to take on. That's why I picked the two cars for this restomod. The 65 car is a 1000 mile body-off restoration with a brand new stock frame. The donor is a 10,000 mile 2007 roll over chassis. Everything is new and clean. Bolt and un-bolt is my thing. I don't have the time to restore old rusty parts and all that crap. I do understand the body under floor will have to be modified in the rear and one thing that sounded really interesting from Streetshop is he has a company that makes a one piece custom fiberglass rear floor section that takes care of everything in one shot. This will be the hardest (labor) part of the project but necessary to get the big tires in there. I also want to move the seats back to allow for my big ***. The one below looks like what I need. I'll use the old rear differential and muncie trans (maybe a tremec) with the LS7
Last edited by Tom@Dewitt; 01-27-2019 at 11:38 AM.
#31
Safety Car
My goal is simple.
A: I want a old car that rides and steers like a new car.
B: I want to be comfortable inside.
C: I do not want to change the body or get into any bodywork and paint.
I am 62 now and I can't do all the stuff I used to take on. That's why I picked the two cars for this restomod. The 65 car is a 1000 mile body-off restoration with a brand new stock frame. The donor is a 10,000 mile 2007 roll over chassis. Everything is new and clean. Bolt and un-bolt is my thing. I don't have the time to restore old rusty parts and all that crap. I do understand the body under floor will have to be modified in the rear and one thing that sounded really interesting from Streetshop is he has a company that makes a one piece custom fiberglass rear floor section that takes care of everything in one shot. This will be the hardest (labor) part of the project but necessary to get the big tires in there. I also want to move the seats back to allow for my big ***. The one below looks like what I need. I'll use the old rear differential and muncie trans (maybe a tremec) with the LS7
A: I want a old car that rides and steers like a new car.
B: I want to be comfortable inside.
C: I do not want to change the body or get into any bodywork and paint.
I am 62 now and I can't do all the stuff I used to take on. That's why I picked the two cars for this restomod. The 65 car is a 1000 mile body-off restoration with a brand new stock frame. The donor is a 10,000 mile 2007 roll over chassis. Everything is new and clean. Bolt and un-bolt is my thing. I don't have the time to restore old rusty parts and all that crap. I do understand the body under floor will have to be modified in the rear and one thing that sounded really interesting from Streetshop is he has a company that makes a one piece custom fiberglass rear floor section that takes care of everything in one shot. This will be the hardest (labor) part of the project but necessary to get the big tires in there. I also want to move the seats back to allow for my big ***. The one below looks like what I need. I'll use the old rear differential and muncie trans (maybe a tremec) with the LS7
Mill send you a message later with info. My only goal here is to help you avoid issues.
#32
Former Vendor
I appreciate that. I'm not dead set on anything. Totally open-minded
Oh, sorry to Jim Myers (OP) for hyjacking your thread. I'll start a new one
Oh, sorry to Jim Myers (OP) for hyjacking your thread. I'll start a new one
Last edited by Tom@Dewitt; 01-27-2019 at 03:38 PM.
#33
Instructor
Knowing what I know know after being involved in my restomod build for over 5 years . You are going in a good direction. Most of my time and money of my builld is dealing with building the body, etc ,waiting on bodywork , finding missing parts , and fitting everything . I went with a sriii frame and it is amazing quality and was a dream to assemble. If I’d had a good body waiting to basically drop on it, I would be driving it now. You will have so many clean parts to sell, it will make you cost outlay even less. Good luck and good engine choice
#34
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2015
Location: Fresno California
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The OP hasn't been on this forum since the 27th of last month.
#35
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2017
Location: Michigan
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2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
Why not save a lot of money by using your current BB in the car and have quality engine builder add some HP. Add EFI some HP aluminum heads and knock off 60 pounds off the front of your car with the aluminum heads. Better handling as side benefit of weight loss. Nice hydraulic roller cam. Headers to flow the new HP aluminum heads. Electronic ignition tied to EFI. Don't have to ship your car out and don't even have to pull your engine. Should be good local shops that can do these changes. More HP then a stock C2 can handle with these types of simple changes to your current BB. If worried about original engine all of above changes can be reversed when selling the car if buyer wants a stocker. Save yourself $23000 for other changes you may want to make or just leave in the bank and drive your C2 with it's new HP big bad engine.
What horse power is your current stock BB engine?
What horse power is your current stock BB engine?