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I had the door problem back in the early 70's and when I did my frame off 67 coupe, I pre stressed the door to close all the way at the top. Did that with the door shims. Then I used 1/8 paint sticks to keep the door from hitting the body. Then after installing the wx strip I coated the rubber with Sil Glyde to allow the rubber to find a home.The door was a bit off at the top on both for a day or two, but closed. Now the contour is PERFECT! Had to pre stress the door tops to the over close position so when the wx strip was on it put pressure on the rubber. The hard corner pieces stopped the door from over closing and the door countour and gap are GREAT.
[QUOTE=J.Abbott;1598909666]Actually that is how it is supposed to be done. You buy two sets of W?S if needed. You install it and do all your body work. Then you pull it off and paint the car. You should put the whole car together before you paint it to make sure everything fits perfect. That is why a really nice paint job is really expensive.[/QUOTE
I have never heard of this process before, do you also install the windshield glass with weather stripping than remove it to
I'm at the same stage with my coupe. I bought my rubber from Paragon, but I think they get it from Corvette Rubber. I can compress it to 1/8" thick. A piece of paper gets "stuck" between the WS and the door jam when the door is closed and I can even push the door in another 3/32" or so. Here are pics.
Actually that is how it is supposed to be done. You buy two sets of W?S if needed. You install it and do all your body work. Then you pull it off and paint the car. You should put the whole car together before you paint it to make sure everything fits perfect. That is why a really nice paint job is really expensive.[/QUOTE
I have never heard of this process before, do you also install the windshield glass with weather stripping than remove it to
think about what you just said. Does the windshield open and close? Does it have a gap that can change over time or vary? Some of you people...
Last edited by 65silververt; 02-20-2019 at 07:27 AM.
think about what you just said. Does the windshield open and close? Does it have a gap that can change over time or vary? Some of you people...
Some of us are learning here - and I just did -- about prefitting the W/S prior to paint - I already knew you hang and adjust doors/hood etc...
I also know that some windshield back window rubber molding can cause fits.... The split window repro rear molding can make the trim stick up in the air unnaturally so I can understand the question, even if it doesn't apply...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-20-2019 at 11:47 AM.
65silvervet, I was just commenting on what Zip said about putting the whole car together before paint to make sure every thing fits,
I would think that includes windshield, rear window and so on, maybe you did not install the WS correctly, I have build over 20 cars
and have never done this process, or have issues with WS, just saying
I'm pretty sure at the factory GM didn't strap doors progressively shut over several weeks or months in order for the weatherstrip to allow the doors to close correctly. They had to use the right stuff, so the doors closed as the car went down the line. Which means the repro stuff is simply too oversized/bulky. Have run into this restoring GM A-bodies.....same deal: trunks won't close, doors won't close, etc. It's because the reproduction stuff is usually literally twice as thick as it should be. Original Sting Ray's had the doors closing and sealing just fine the day they were built. New owners didn't have to 'put braces' on their teeth by tying doors shut.
65silvervet, I was just commenting on what Zip said about putting the whole car together before paint to make sure every thing fits,
I would think that includes windshield, rear window and so on, maybe you did not install the WS correctly, I have build over 20 cars
and have never done this process, or have issues with WS, just saying
i apologize. I thought you were being a smart ***....Lost in translation!
im not sure what your gaps look like on the 20 cars you built, but I’ve always fit the doors and deck lid with weatherstripping installed. I’ve never had an issue like this though, but the weatherstripping has always altered the gap at the top and a pillar on coupes.
Frankie makes a good point about the split window glass, but other than moving the screw holes outward for the clips, I’m not sure what would help. I also check fitment of the tail lamps, exhaust bezels, and door handles.
Last edited by 65silververt; 02-20-2019 at 11:48 AM.
You may know this but, the center rod (thing that makes the hole in the strip) on the extruder wears out from the abrasiveness of the rubber compound and keeps getting smaller in diameter as it wears. The machine operator doesn't care as long as something keeps coming out of the other end. No quality control.
Last edited by mrichard; 03-09-2019 at 01:06 PM.
Reason: A little too abrasive in tone.
think about what you just said. Does the windshield open and close? Does it have a gap that can change over time or vary? Some of you people...
Actually I was talking about the doors etc, but yes the windshield does as well because with the glass in you need to sit the molding height and you can't do that without the glass being installed. You could wing it and just be another car where the gaps are not perfect. Then you can do like most and say "hey that's how GM did it" or you could just do the work and have a perfect car when you are done.
Last edited by Zip Corvettes; 02-20-2019 at 02:15 PM.
New weatherstrip from Long Island Corvette showed up and all is right with the world again. It is much more pliable and the backing is thinner. The doors now shut correctly
New weatherstrip from Long Island Corvette showed up and all is right with the world again. It is much more pliable and the backing is thinner. The doors now shut correctly
This is good news, and there is a break in period for the WX stripping. I use SIL GLYDE. It's a WX lube that lets the WX find it's place. If not, in time it will crack from distortion.
New weatherstrip from Long Island Corvette showed up and all is right with the world again. It is much more pliable and the backing is thinner. The doors now shut correctly
Why go to a 3rd party vendor and guess where it comes from? Go to Corvette Rubber Co. and buy directly from the manufacturer of CORRECT weatherstripping.
He could be getting a discount from Long Island vs no discount from Corvette Rubber company
that’s correct, I get a discount. Long Island isn’t the problem though...they always provide great products.
CC is the issue. They aren’t worth ordering from even with the start to finish or vendor discount. The amount of crap you will need to return will negate any benefits.
02-19-2019, 06:45 PM
