I have been doing some research on-line about car sound proofing.

The experts are saying that you need 2 layers of sound deadening material before the carpet is installed.

One layer must be a MLV vinyl material (mat )and the other material what is most commonly used.

The experts are saying both layers must be used to be effective and of course 100% coverage including the firewall, roof and doors.

The vinyl material is needed for the outside noise barrier and the other material for inside noise like rattles etc.



Have you any knowledge of this 3 layer soundproofing barrier of vinyl material, standard material and carpet?

 

You haven't missed a thing. The Reflectix is a staple-on material, but I just layed over the roll-on B Quiet Ultimate and then let the carpet hold it in place. It's been there over ten years.

Lou

 

Ah, got it. Thanks for the clarification. My biggest issues in my '66 involved the very tight fit of the console, the side pieces everywhere, and so forth. I had to cut away the peel-and-stick just to get these hard pieces to fit the car where carpet was also involved. I guess tolerances were pretty tight and I was wondering how it worked in your car. Thank you for the explanation/clarification. Seems like 10 years proves your point pretty well!

Cheers,

Richard

 

I do not. I think this is one of those topics that you can drive yourself batsh*t crazy about.

At some point the area of diminishing returns is reached and you can spend a crap load of time and money for ever smaller benefits. One layer of sound deadener underneath factory carpet may get you 85% of the way there for 40% of the cost and a lot less aggravation.

 

I agree 100%. It's like taking a good 13 second car, and spending 4 times the money to make it an 11 second car. These Corvettes are not Rolls Royces or Bentleys. A simple install of any of the modern butyl/foil insulation products will result in a car far more quiet and cool than it was when it was made 50+ years ago. You can chase that last decibel or 2 degrees of heat, but for what? 7 times the labor and cost?

 

Oh, you guys have never been in the audio business. In the mid-1970's I had a "high-end" Shop and my customers would spend 10X the $$ for miniscule differences in MEASUREMENTS, not sound. It was kind of a game/hobby/light competition between these guys--they were mostly guys--to get the "latest and greatest" piece out there. We did OK, and we loved it when one of the magazines wrote that product x was "better" than product y. Sales picked up, even if they just bought the superseded product.

As I understand it, the game today in that world is in the wires that connect the various pieces in a system together. They get thousands of dollars per meter (of course) for these things. Personally, most of the electrons I ever interviewed don't have a preference for silver/gold alloy over copper/zinc/molybdenum wires, but you just never know, right?

Cheers,

Richard

 

How many square feet of sound proof installation is needed for a C2 coupe? This includes both doors, firewall, floor, roof and side walls?

 

This is true. However the electrons are very concerned about whether they bump into an oxygen molecule somewhere along the wire. To keep the electrons safe and stress-free, oxygen-free wire was invented.

 

Hmmmmmm ...

 

Technically speaking, the short runs of wires that most people have in their home systems show little or no changes based on OFC. BUT, if you think they make your system sound better, I would GLADLY sell them to you cause I made a ton of profit doing so.

Anyway, I suppose if you are building a recording studio and have long runs of wires you would go for OFC, so if OFC will make your 100'+ runs last longer/sound "better", I say go for it.

Funny, somehow, the guys at Motown made pretty good tunes back then with those old wires, old instruments, and those obsolete tube recording devices in a fairly small and somewhat-dead room. Must have been the talent, I guess, as the wires were pretty much whatever was around in the '50's and '60's.

This is obviously a "discussion" with little or no possible resolution. What I can tell you from being in that business for a long time is that after being fortunate enough to listen to pretty much every good speaker made back in the day--yes, it was a long time ago--I learned that box speakers add to the reproduced sound and planer speakers do not. The downside of this is that you need to buy pretty good stuff if you buy planer speakers as you basically hear what you provide it.

My "fav" speakers from college--REALLY BAD! I was pretty embarrassed by my lack of understanding back then as I THOUGHT I knew what I was doing until I had the opportunity to really listen in my shop for as long as I wanted to in every possible configuration. That is how I really learned what the business was all about. I had instruments there as well that I could play to compare to the reproduced sounds, and of course we went to many concerts of ALL kinds of music. Part of the learning process--I still do not "appreciate" opera...but I learned a lot by going.

Other than that, the most expensive items I sold mostly broke--Sequerra, Audio Research, Stax, Linn-Sondek, Nakamichi, etc., but most of the manufacturers were pretty good at fixing DOA or broke- in-1-day items.

Enough. Back to Corvettes!

Cheers,

Richard

 

Note,I didn't claim that I bought OFC wire, only that I'm aware of its existence. My own preference is for regular, oxygen contaminated wire. The random collisions between the electrons and the O2 molecules tend to enhance (in my opinion) the 2nd harmonics from the hollow-state amplifiers.