I'm thinking about sound proofing my 1966 C2 using Dynamat, just a bit worried as I like to keep the car as original so is the difference worth the mod. I would think that stuff is hard to remove later. I'm in the UK so the top is up or hard top fitted most of the time :-(

 

Nothing against FATMAT, but when I used it in Buicks I found little or no advantage and it is very expensive. For my '66, I took Willcox's advice and used A/C stuff--MUCH less $$ and seems to be pretty much the same as FATMAT so far. Not on the road yet, but if you ask Willcox I am sure he can tell you all about it.

Like I said nothing against FATMAT, but no big results in the past so I am trying something Corvette people say works fine for MUCH LESS $$. We shall see...so far it went on perfectly. I imagine it will be easier to remove in the future than the 5 pounds of GLUE that were on the floor of my car...

Cheers,

Richard

 

I did the interior of my '63 in Dynamat and I can't imagine it is any more difficult to remove than the original carpet/foam was.

From this...


to this...


and finally this...


Good luck... GUSTO

 

I would ask around if it really works, before doing it.
Years ago, I fitted Dynomat on my C4, to tone down the Borla mufflers, and the difference was hardly noticeable.

 

I used Peel’N’Stick from a mobile home supplier. I could do 5 cars with one $100 roll.

 

Without getting into a scientific and heated discussion on this, Is Dynamat any better sound or heat protection than Frost King that Home Depot offers at a fraction of the cost?

 

See, that is the issue. When I get the car on the road in a few weeks, I can answer that one since I used Frost King this time per Willcox's suggestion. With Buick 455's and Stage 1 cars, little if any difference with the expensive stuff that WE experienced on 5 different cars. Small sample, just two of us doing the work, so PLEASE don't take this for gospel. These companies would not be in business if their customers were not happy with their results, I would guess, and they seem to be pretty successful.

Let you know when I do!

Cheers,

RIchard

 

It wont affect the value of your car either way

 

The restoration shop I used in the past to complete a couple of body-off restorations convinced me of the value of adding soundproofing, which in their case happened to be Dynamat. They did a two or three steel body restorations for every Corvette and found that the Dynamat added significantly to interior sound quality (customer satisfaction), as well as the sound made when opening and closing doors/trunk lids/hoods. They used it on every hardtop Chevy II, Camaro, Mustang, etc, on the underside of the roof to add rigidity and address the coke can/popping effect that often occurs with larger expanses of sheet metal.

The before and after on a high dollar restoration was readily apparent to me. They would wait until Amazon was having a sale on it along with free shipping, and order enough to do two or three cars at a time. The cost ended up being half of the retail cost. For me personally, just by adding a sheet of Dynaliner to the inside of of the door on my '63 and then opening and closing the door produced a noticeable difference between it and the door that I had not yet done.

Since I was doing the installation, it was an easy decision for me. It was a lot of work to do it to my satisfaction, but then it was my time anyway. As far as adding value, I would just say it added a lot of value to me because I would have paid to have it done regardless.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

A friend did his '67 GTO with Frost King a few years ago. It was about 1/20th the price of Dynamat or Fatmat. He did his whole car for under $40. Worked great for sound deadening AND heat. Much better than the lame factory tar paper pieces.

 

Dynamat (and similar tar type products) does a different function than Frost King foam type mat.

Dynamat changes the resonant frequency of the surface by damping it (like the little tar square on the underside of stainless sinks).

Frost King foam absorbs sound and provides some thermal resistance due to the air within it.

The best approach would be to use both, but it does become 1/4" or more thick so that's not always practical.

I used this approach in both, my side piped 69 and Corsa Xtreme C6 and it made a world of difference.

The biggest benefit for C1/C2 will be when the hard top is on. An open car doesn't form that resonant "enclosure" and the soft top absorbs a lot of the sound moving through the interior.

 

Has anyone done a "before and after" test for ANY of these products in the same car, same conditions, same road, same speed, etc. with a decimal meter?

 

I've been buying my sound equipment from a local dealer/installer who's been doing it for 30+ years. He's done $20K+ sound systems for exotics and when money is no object, he uses soundskins ($7.59-10/ft).. More expensive than Dynamat extreme ($4.15/ft.), which he also uses.

I don't see using any of this stuff as reducing the value, provided its done neatly and covered by the carpet. It has less affect on convertibles IMO, but a little more benefit with a hardtop as mentioned. At the very least, you'll get a "thud" when closing the door, and not a "bing".

 

I agree. I put Frost King in my C1 a couple of years ago, floorboard, doors, behind kick panel, etc. Easy to install and for a fraction of the price, made a big difference. Will use the same in my C2.

 

I would no more soundproof a Corvette than a Stradivarius violin.

 

It is really more than "soundproofing" if you think about it. The jute and tar sheets I pulled up from my car were a mess. The jute stunk and was powdery--probably caused by age, but my specific car was not very well taken care of and most repairs under the dash and in the interior were done by unruly infants or blind marsupials. It is truly embarrassing to see. If I knew the owner responsible I would call him on it!

The replacement choices are new jute, which I bought, and something to cut down a bit on the heat as I have a factory A/C car with a totally new system that has, unfortunately, been changed to 134A--something I would never do, but it is done. This is basically the tar layer but reversed to put the jute on top of it rather than under the tar material.

SO, by ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds a dull silver/gray (@9% heat reduction from what I have read) and by laying out a different heat (and sound suppressor--that original stuff was there for a reason, you know)--I have merely replaced nasty stuff with new stuff. The tar paper material was totally shot and crumbling and the jute under it and the dash was not something I wanted to breath ever, so I cleaned out the mess and replaced it with basically the same thing. My A/C should perform better--good grief, the cabin is so small it is tiny compared to other cars that used the same compressor--and therefore the engine will devote more power to going rather than compressor turning on hot days in SO FL, which I can tell you after 47 years of living here, can get pretty warm.

As for sound, I doubt the jute and foil stuff will cause it to go silent. I only have the small engine, and since I plan to drive the car around as a normal car, I am not worried too much about it sounding like a 427 or giving me the issues that the big-block will have in normal driving. Gas is different, traffic is terrible, and so I am pleased to drive what I have with the newer materials that no one will every see or know about unless they take up the carpet again.

So, not really an attempt to silence the car; more of a replacement of old tech with newer tech and a very similar, if different color, jute.

Cheers,

Richard

 

I’ve used a numerous brands of material for soundeadening cars, trucks and boat engine compartments. For cars, Dynamat is just ok, Damplifier is a much better product for the money. They also have a better range of products.

https://store.secondskinaudio.com/vi...de-in-the-usa/

Normally to deaden noise tramission through the body, I use a layer of Damplifier followed by a layer of Frost King. If you want more deadening, follow that by a layer of MLV (mass loaded vinyl). To absorb interior sound, a layer of closed cell foam or similar carpet padding over the Frost King or MLV works well.

For effective sound deadening and absorption, multiple layers of different products works the best. Yes, it can get expensive. If you’re on a tight budget the Frost King works pretty good.

 

The Frost King and Peel'N'Stick work just fine...the goal is to get enough mass to dampen vibrations and harmonics while getting some acoustic deadining. I even installed it in the roof of my coupe:


There is also a cargo area insulation mat with foil backing that you can buy reasonably (coupe or eonvertible) with a carpeted cover that really deadens drive train sounds in the rear. You can get them both from Mid America Motorworks for about $150...



They just lay in place and are removed in 10 seconds....if desired....

Its also great for coupes to protect original carpet from fading via UV through the rear glass.

 

for me when you drive with the windows down all the time how does sound proofing offer any benefits

 

When I ponder these questions, my mind always wander to this area. What if you have side pipes? My '65 is the anti-Lexus in every respect - well, they both do have steering wheels.