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I would imagine the C2 with the spring always putting pressure on the rear diff cover this issue would be common.
Do most use a gasket or seal it with silicone or the right stuff?
Frankie, I have never had much luck trying to seal any leak with a quick fix. You may be dropping that diff so you can fix it right and be done.
Lets hope it is a straightforward repair. The blue diff gasket would be a Fel-Pro brand.
I did what Gary recommended after I got a bad cover that was leaking out of the hole Gustov showed. I can’t remember off the top of my head what paste I used but can check when I get home. Brushed on a layer off sealant, set the gasket and brushed another layer on top of the gasket. Set the cover and incrementally set the final torque. Actually it was the boy using the torque wrench for the first time.
Yeah - that's what its coming down to - I just have to get my head around it....
I'll dig out my '63 shop manual tomorrow and see what the R&R procedure is...
A little scary as in my research another thread popped up where some Bubba tightened the spring perch bolts so much he cracked the differential mounting flange on a 63:
Put your drip pan under the leak and forget about it. Without getting under my '72, I don't see that fixing a minor leak at that location is an easy fix based on your picture.
Some leaks, are just meant to be. I learned that with my Ferrari, none of the leaks on my cars bother me anymore as long as I can drive at least 1000 miles, or go a year, without having to top something off.
If I know Frank, he's not going to live with a leak, even a small one. He'll bite the bullet and fix it or have it fixed. On the other hand, I'm done for the day.....spent an hour in the workshop trying to get the countergear shaft installed in my rebuilt ST-10....and am close, but not quite there. There is absolutely no wiggle room when installing shaft with the mainshaft and gears already installed in the case (which is mandatory with the large diameter 1st and 3rd gears in my unit. Sometimes 'the hobby' kicks your butt.
Trying to make and keep a 56 year old car in perfect condition is an impossible task. Like Gilda Radner said - “it’s always something”. Thank God I’m not an OCD perfectionist!
Frank
Yes I moved, 15 miles North! I am about 7 years away from retiring but with more jobs leaving Ct that may be cut short.
Since you have a lift and time I would remove the rear spring and see if the leak is more obvious.
I will be in my home shop tomorrow building a 66 IRS so if you want to go over things just call me, I think you have my number. If not just email me.
The Eaton posi is a lot better then the DANA used in 63-4 and if you have a 72-79 those are the best. The front brackets were pretty bad and the front holes were tapped and short 7/16 bolts used which also wasn't too good. While not the issue you are looking at you should check them both if you are checking the diff.
Frank
Yes I moved, 15 miles North! I am about 7 years away from retiring but with more jobs leaving Ct that may be cut short.
Since you have a lift and time I would remove the rear spring and see if the leak is more obvious.
I will be in my home shop tomorrow building a 66 IRS so if you want to go over things just call me, I think you have my number. If not just email me.
The Eaton posi is a lot better then the DANA used in 63-4 and if you have a 72-79 those are the best. The front brackets were pretty bad and the front holes were tapped and short 7/16 bolts used which also wasn't too good. While not the issue you are looking at you should check them both if you are checking the diff.
Thanks for the offer Gary but it may be later on - grand kid coming over this weekend and that takes precedence...
Big weekend for the family Frank, hope the new one comes in perfect. We have one due in October. My wife is already going crazy over it and this is #4.
Leaks can be frustrating. I rebuilt the Toploader in my Cobra rep last year with an eye towards making it leak free - particularly at the shift shaft seals and the lower tailhousing bolt that is clear drilled into the case. Took every precaution I could think of - guess what - still have an occasional drip. I just hang on to large pieces of cardboard when they show up and slide under the car when it's parked. It is frustrating. The copper gasket washer for the tailhousing bolt is an interesting idea. Shame I have to drain the box to try one.
Its 3 years since then and many miles and the wrong end of the car - not related remotely IMO.
I've personally experienced a failed transmission and rear end due to a front end collision. The hit also took out the thrust bearing in the engine. Car was a '66 GTO. Also, both rear quarter panels buckled behind the doors. Amazing what inertia can do. The way that rear is strapped into a SWC, there is nowhere for it to go if the driveshaft transfers a solid hit. Didn't your transmission get some damage from the accident? If so, the rear end taking some impact is a realistic possibility.You would be amazed at some of the cars I've inspected that took front end hits that had rear end damage discovered later on....particularly body-on-frame constructed cars like ours.
Put your drip pan under the leak and forget about it. Without getting under my '72, I don't see that fixing a minor leak at that location is an easy fix based on your picture.
Doug
My lift has THREE drip pans. I put one under the diff, one under the trans, and one sorta under the engine. The trans and engine pans are butted together.
I'd move on and wouldn't worry about the drip, Frank. It gives the car "character". It's marking its' territory.
Actually - we call it Spiderman because, well, its red and its had this bizarre fuel stain under the flip up fuel filler cavity cover as far as three owners back:
A little creepy but sorta cool too. The picture above is from member firstgear (Herb) photo album - he sold me the car...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jun 8, 2019 at 05:17 PM.
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