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I would like to add a possible reason, just a shot in the dark, but being that the condenser is in front of the radiator, the hot air has to obviously go thru it first. I am not a system guy, but know of a few cases where the A/C system was not causing any overheating till it was worked on. Meaning that it was overcharged with oil or gas causing the condenser to get much hotter. Reason being is that it was OK temp wise, then after working on the system it ran hotter. Years ago I did just that. If a little is good a lot is much better! I overcharged the system and the engine ran HOT. Got a education from someone who did A/C all day (my son), and found that dad overcharged and that caused the condenser to get much hotter. To much oil in the system will also cause the same problems.
There were no temps checked before or after, just that there was no more overheating. There are a few NCRS guys that can swear to that as being their problem.
Point the IR gun at the thermostat housing and compare it with the gauge. If the temp is normal I suspect you may need to replace the sending unit which is easy & inexpensive. See if you can find a used or NOS one.
Yes Dom..............AC performance (and hence condenser temperature and pressure ) can and will affect engine cooling. Hopefully OP is running his system per SOP.
This may not be his issue, but it is good to check.
The cold case 2row (1.25" tubes) should be pretty close to the btu rating of the original aluminum radiator so switching is probably not going to change anything there. I scan read this full thread and I saw 240 f at a couple lights but I didn't see what happens when you cruise over 40-50 mph. If the system cools down then and only has a problem at low speed and idle, the problem is the vacuum can. After 20 years of diagnosing these issue, I'd say 9 of 10 of these low speed/idle problems are a bad vac can or just the wrong function. Some guys have replaced the distributor and have no vacuum advance at all.
Just put the 2747 Hayden clutch and a 17117 Derale 6 blade fan ($72 for both from Summit) and it will run at the thermostat temp. I install at least 2 vintage airs a year and none of them run hot in traffic.
Mark
I think you are right on target. I need to find out how to determine if I have a dead VAC and proceed from there. I tried to mouth suction the hose to the distributor and nothing would move. tried to move the mechanism by hand and it barely moved. I need to dig into the distributor next once I determine how to do that job. Thanks
I think you are right on target. I need to find out how to determine if I have a dead VAC and proceed from there. I tried to mouth suction the hose to the distributor and nothing would move. tried to move the mechanism by hand and it barely moved. I need to dig into the distributor next once I determine how to do that job. Thanks
You should be able to check it with the timing light hooked up. You first set the timing per the book specs with the vac hose plugged. Then plug the hose back on and you should see an additional 12-15 degrees (refer to your manual for exact specs) A good spec book will tell you exactly how many degrees at what vacuum (water column) You want to make sure that hose is connected to a "non ported" or full intake source.
After you get the vacuum advance working, post a picture of your fan, showing it's positioning in the fan shroud and so we can verify it is not installed backwards. Your problem, as others have stated, is that you are not pulling enough air through the radiator at slow speeds. The radiator is fine. If it was not, it would overheat on the highway as well. I suspect a good fan clutch and functional vacuum advance will work wonders here.
get yourself a mity vac tool you can use that to pull a vacumn on the advancd can and see when it pulls open or if it holds vacumn. then you can use it as a gauge when the engine is running to get real time data to help you pick the right advance can using the two inch rule. harbor freight sells them
waiting on a fan clutch to be delivered. I finally found a new Delco clutch that was HD (as required) and fit my 3" holes in the 7 blade fan and the holes for the water pump .( I hope!) I know I could have bought a Hayden HD, but I would then need a new fan blade, then a new water pump for the original holes to line up. The hayden 2711 would have fit but it was standard use