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I have a 63 and the ignition key will come out in the ACC position. It will also come out in the OFF and RUN position. I don't think this should happen.
Has anyone had this happen to them? To make this right do i need just the tumbler or a new switch housing or both? Hate to change the tumbler and have new key that does not fit doors and glove box. Any suggestions or should I just live with it ??
I deny any knowledge or implied knowledge. My bet would be the key is worn, but then in combination, it could be the pins (tumblers) in the lock are also worn. While you can still move the lock to remove the cylinder, I would take the cylinder and keys to a good old time locksmith and he can fix your problem. There is a guy on online here that is very knowledgeable about keys and locks, so if he says otherwise, listen to him. You just have to guess which one is the smartest!!! Hint - Not me, just had the old car that did the same thing.
Ron
I have a 63 and the ignition key will come out in the ACC position. It will also come out in the OFF and RUN position. I don't think this should happen.
Has anyone had this happen to them? To make this right do i need just the tumbler or a new switch housing or both? Hate to change the tumbler and have new key that does not fit doors and glove box. Any suggestions or should I just live with it ??
I wasn't able to find the thread but recently someone posted a similar question, another member posted something from the owners manual that the key can be removed in lock as well as run. That being said, mine also comes out in ACC so I have the same issue. I'm wondering if either worn key/lock or just a need to lubricate the pins in the lock? Let us know if you find a fix other than a reproduction lock.
I had a couple of old Impalas with the ignition switch that you could remove the key and drive them. As I recall, once you moved the key from the lock position, you could remove it and operate the car in the other functions. The key was only to LOCK the ignition. I basically never used the key in our small town back half a century ago.
Don't know why I posted this in error, it doesn't apply to the 63 locks.
You need a locksmith, or rebuild the lock cylinder and cut a new key. New pins and springs are available in a kit to rebuild the cylinder on Flee Bay and other sources for less than $20. The key can be cut to the original configuration using the numbers on the cylinder.
Mine behaves as the manual states it should. Worn keys and tumblers, and some tumbler configurations, could easily permit the key to be removed in other positions.
Personally, I wouldn't sweat it. I'd just make sure to remember to verify that it's in the position I want in all cases.
Curiosity now, so if you can remove the key in the ON position and move to the OFF position and back to the ON position, I would assume you can also move it to the start position and use the car without the key??
Yes that is correct. I can put key in any position and remove the key. I can turn it to off, remove key and turn to on, start any number of times. But when I move it to lock it won’t come off lock until key is put back in. That’s how I found I had a problem. Several times at car shows I found I had left it I ACC with the keys in my pocket…
Curiosity now, so if you can remove the key in the ON position and move to the OFF position and back to the ON position, I would assume you can also move it to the start position and use the car without the key??
63 ignition switch
