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John, thanks.
Already past that point, had the hoses disconnected and bypassed because of the leak, seat is out for re-upholstery, fresh air inlet removed for rebuilding. I have the ST-12 manual but seems rather vague, was just hoping someone may know about any "gotchas" I need to look out for.
Thanks again for your reply,
Carl
When I did mine a few years ago, someone recommended having the new core/valve pressure tested BEFORE you put them in.
The repops seems so flimsey.. it seemed like a good idea to me.
I took it to a radiator shop and they did it for free in 3 minutes.
Mine passed.. and it's been in there several years now with no problems.
Thanks guys, these will be a great help!
Dave Z, such an excellent presentation! You must be a professional photographer! If there is a way it should be posted permanently on here.
Where did you get the elbows? Can't quite make out the info on the picture (old eyes) I guess.
Dave, thanks for all the info, it really took a lot of the trepidation out of the job. I have it all out and disassembled and mostly cleaned up now, looks like I need to do a little fiberglass work on the heater box and the outer fresh air inlet valve. I'm also going to take a page out of your book and make the reinforcements for the heater box, my upper inside corner is broken like yours. I already have resin, hardener and both fiberglass cloth and mat. Turns out that my leak was the 90 degree hose connecting the core and the control valve. The blower motor runs fine but the fan wheel is pretty nasty. Can't seem to find one, Does anyone know if one from any other vehicle will fit? If I can't locate one I guess I will soak it in evap-o-rust for a while. It will be out of sight so I'm interested in function before form at this time.
Glad to hear you are making progress. When I had ours apart, the squirrel cage was pretty rusty. I wire wheeled it as best a could and painted with silver Rust Encapsulator. With a little luck I will never have to go in there to see it again.
Dave, thanks. I wire wheeled, wire brushed and now it is soaking in evapo-rust. I'm going to paint it silver like you did and call it good. My defroster box and the defroster hoses will have to be replaced, they are to far gone. I'm looking at Paragon for them right now, haven't pulled the trigger yet in case I need to add something else. Only want to pay shipping once.
Dave,
Not sure how much you invested your rebuild but thought you might feel better about the investment after seeing this. Happened on it today and made me happy:
Couldn't figure how to create a link, you'll have to copy and paste to see it.
Dave,
Not sure how much you invested your rebuild but thought you might feel better about the investment after seeing this. Happened on it today and made me happy:
Couldn't figure how to create a link, you'll have to copy and paste to see it.
Carl
Dang, if someone is going to pay that much, I could get Vintage Air!
Yikes, that guy is mighty proud of that assembly. I don't recall how much $ I dropped at the time but it was nowhere near that much.
The defroster duct does make for some pretty expensive cardboard though.
Dave Z
Well, the "reasonably priced " defroster boxes all seem to be out of stock or discontinued. Does anyone know what the "fiberboard" they are constructed of actually is
and where might be a possible source for it or a substitute material? I'm pretty handy in the shop and think I may be able to fabricate one myself. After looking it over closely I
can't believe Chevrolet actually put something like that in a production "sport car".
I would like to use material as close as possible to the original if I can locate it though.
Thanks in advance to anyone that point me in the right direction.
Yikes, that guy is mighty proud of that assembly. I don't recall how much $ I dropped at the time but it was nowhere near that much.
The defroster duct does make for some pretty expensive cardboard though.
Dave Z
I bought a metal one (many years ago, no longer available) but that cardboard one looks like it could be made at home with a pattern. some backer board and a little patience.
There is a water resistant backer board that I bought a while back from an auto upholstery shop that would be ideal for this type of project.
Last edited by Pilot Dan; Sep 23, 2021 at 05:24 PM.
I bought a metal one (many years ago, no longer available) but that cardboard one looks like it could be made at home with a pattern. some backer board and a little patience.
There is a water resistant backer board that I bought a while back from an auto upholstery shop that would be ideal for this type of project.
There are a couple of threads where guys made their own. Do you have your old one for the clips and levers? Zip says it will ship in 7-10 days and CC says discontinued. Good luck!
DZ,
I"m getting mine all back together and am confused about where the blower motor gets it's ground. I did not disconnect a ground wire, but based on some of the work I've encountered done before I acquired the car it could have been discarded in the past. Since the whole assembly bolts up to the fiberglass firewall I don't see a path to ground unless it's through the control cables which would be sort of hokey even though it might work. Thanks in advance.
