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TC Racing CA suggested checking the toe. That jogged a memory that my toe was the cause of my non-return to center issue, mine was way out. You can go to the garage and check easily with a tape measure and at least rule that out. Also I ran out of shim-able threads as well to get the desired Castor setting and ended up matching L and R to the max that I could get which was about 2 degrees which is working fine for now.
I think what is more important is that the toe is toe-in anything from "just a smige" to 1/4" will work. I think it is toe-out than can mess up the return to center but am not 100% sure.
Frankly, if you can’t measure caster on a C2, then set camber with as many shims as possible on the rear UCA stud and the least amount on the front stud (while maintaining a safe amount of engagement on the rear stud nut. You can’t get too much caster on a C2 with a stock front end and camber and toe are easy to measure. Then take it for professional alignment. You will be amazed at how close you will be.
Here is an example of a home camber/caster gauge on my ‘66.
I think what is more important is that the toe is toe-in anything from "just a smige" to 1/4" will work. I think it is toe-out than can mess up the return to center but am not 100% sure.
Worse than that. Toe out will make the car "darty" in that it will want to go every direction except straight. You'll wear yourself out making constant steering corrections.
