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SEE POST NUMBER 22 FOR A PROBLEM I NEED RESOLUTION TO.
Well, I FINALLY am on my way. I bought an aluminum head 383 that a guy who races had built and then decided to go LS.
Here are the specs:
1974 350 block .030
Brodix 10 heads 23 degree
Balanced Scat stroker kit w/ forged 4340 5.7 I beam rods
Main studs
Solid cam set up
1.65 Scorpion roller rockers
5/16 hardened pushrods
Paid $3k for this engine and certainly could not build it for that.
I have collected many parts to dress this as a 365 h.p. engine including:
All of the chrome specific fuel, dipstick etc items
365 h.p. air cleaner
An original rebuilt 2818 carb
Original 461 intake
8” balancer
Timing chain cover and pointer
Polished finned valve covers
And more that I can’t recall right now
i will be putting a hole in one of the valve covers for the suction side of the pcv set up and using the stock 1965 system so I can run the original type valve covers.
I plan to have this installed after the first of the year and will also have new synchros put in the original trans as it will sometimes grind on a downshift to 1st gear.
I am excited to finally have more power in this car.
I have a set of Brodix -10 heads and mine are spread port ex, other than that you need to watch for a mismatch on your intake ports. mine have really big intakes. I was making almost 600 hp with my 355. Made for a great engine. Good luck with your build, you got a fantastic price on it..
Yeah the guy said he had $7 k in it. He wanted $4200 for it but took my $3k offer.
It also has a billet timing set and a new SFI balancer. I won’t be using the balancer so if someone want a good deal on one let me know.
I plan to port match the intake and exhaust manifolds the best that can be done.
Regarding the valve covers, these are a pair I picked up that had already been polished to a high luster so no one would want them for original look anyway but they will look good with my shiny new air cleaner.
Not sure. I have to get the cam specs. I was planning on putting a 1970 speced LT 1 solid lifter cam in it but this engine already has a solid lifter cam so I am going to install it the way it is built and if I am not satisfied I will change it later.
Sounds like a great engine. At the risk of raining on the parade, does this have an internal or external balance crank assy? If it'e external you can't use the factory 8" balancer and you will need a flywheel with external balance specs also. Some 400 small blocks had an 8" balancer but I don't know how close they look compared to an original balancer.
Sounds like a great engine. At the risk of raining on the parade, does this have an internal or external balance crank assy? If it'e external you can't use the factory 8" balancer and you will need a flywheel with external balance specs also. Some 400 small blocks had an 8" balancer but I don't know how close they look compared to an original balancer.
I would assume since it has a balanced stroker kit that it is internally balanced.
I just got the cam specs and it looks like I will be doing the 1970 LT1 cam as this one looks to be too much.
.555 lift x 1.65 rockers= .610
260 duration exhaust and intake @ 050 lift
110 lobe separation
The guy I bought this from had it in a 1976 Corvette with a dual quad tunnel ram. He only ran it a couple of 1/4 mile runs and turned and 11.40s but figured with tweaking it would go high 10s. Since it had been run even just a few times I had my mechanic take it apart to make sure nothing was hurt before I committed to it and it checked out perfect.
That cam will be way too much for your intended purpose. In fact, you might want to also check the valve springs to ensure they are not too much for the new cam. When I built my GT40, I bought a similar race engine - 600hp out of a bored and stroked Ford 5.0L. I changed the cam and the valve spring seat pressure was over 100lbs greater than required by the new cam. When I replaced the springs, I had to weld an extension bar (piece of old steering shaft) onto my valve spring compressor tool to have enough leverage to actually compress the springs and remove the keepers.
If you have a stock intake gasket set it on the head. I think you’re going to have issues trying to use a stock intake. The stock port is about 1.050 tall, the -10 is going to be around 1.200. If I’m correct you could have someone weld up the stock manifold and blend it where you almost couldn’t tell it.
Last edited by Robert61; Dec 22, 2022 at 03:04 PM.