Factoid

One more thought. With the car in the air, grab the rear tires at 6 and 12 o’clock and try to move the 12 o’clock (top of the tire) in and out. The diff stub axels can wear allowing the axel to move inward (top of the tire moves in).

Oldpiker

This is how mine sits with 16x7 4" back space on my '66. Tires are 225/60R16 Eagle RSA's. Photos like this are almost useless due to lack of context but I can say that the word "EAGLE" is located in a ribbed area on the sidewall. The top of the ribbed area is 1 1/2" below the inner edge of the fender return. If you were to drop a plumb line from the inner glass you would have 1/16" between the fender's inner edge and the sidewall. The fender return measures 9/16".

From what I can determine 1° of camber on a 26" diameter tire equals 7/32". So unless you have a degree or 2 positive camber, clearance gains are nominal. I could be wrong on the 7/32 so if the alignment guru's on the board chime in, it would be good to hear from them.

Gotta love the look of Dad's 427! Where's Louie M? He's probably digging up some bones and pots in a wind-blown sandy desert somewhere...

supersport396

Yes I had a 4 wheel alignment done. there is a little negative camber.

supersport396

FWIW, I am helping a buddy also with a very original 63 split and i took the same measurements of frame rail to fender lip....exactly the same 11". So I think it may come down to just section width of the tire.....some of these tire brands of the same size are 8.9 vs 9.1. Some of my pictures distort what is actually there. This one shows it best. Maybe a smaller section width, small fender trim and a pinch of negative camber will do it. To be continued...

supersport396

Success! I put in a very small amount of negative camber and took about 1/8" off the lip. Another 1/8" and it will clear just fine.....this is just the first 1/8 and this is extreme compression very close to bump stop which I doubt the car will see in real life.