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That search found a Dealers ad for a 67 Yellow Roadster that they claim is an original 427 car and has been modified with a set of L-88/L-89 aluminum BB cylinder heads. A Dealers ad
is far from a guarantee of originality. 1967 Chevrolet Corvette For Sale | AllCollectorCars.com'
They do claim it started out as an original 427 Corvette and do say it's not matching numbers so you still have to do your detective work to determine what it was and what it is now.
Nice looking but it's still a non-matching car. Any buyer will still need to see a ton more pics to determine what's actually there.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
It's a nice clone worth looking at for that price if it checks out IMHO. Buy it and drive it without being scared.
Matching numbers, blah blah, is such a waste of money. The buyer pool for that is almost dead and gone anyways, a very small market growing smaller every year, same with NCRS.
Last edited by Nikolai122; Dec 13, 2024 at 08:23 PM.
=Nikolai122; It's a nice clone worth looking at for that price if it checks out IMHO. Buy it and drive it without being scared.
Matching numbers, blah blah, is such a waste of money. The buyer pool for that is almost dead and gone anyways, a very small market growing smaller every year, same with NCRS.
$142k for a clone is worth looking at but an OEM matching numbers car is a waste of money... Really? A very nice NOM car can be had for much less than $142k.
I looked at the car yesterday in Washington State. The body is solid with the paint looking nice, probably an 8/10. Looking over the car, the underside was clean and the engine didn’t have any oil leaks. Carbs looked new and clean as well. The right front caliper leaks and there is a slight drip at the rear end. The interior is new but the dash has a funny patch down on the drivers side below the radio. Not sure what that’s all about.
The only hesitation for me is the current owner purchased the car just to flip so he has no knowledge of how complete the restoration was or what mechanical work was performed on the engine. He said he would reach out to the previous owner to see if I can talk to him. There is currently 23K on the odometer and he assumes it was turned back at the time of the refresh.
The car is a great looking driver with correct rally wheels, OEM side pipes, and a new top that’s never been down. The price is negotiable and being a non numbers matching, I’m considering purchasing.
Last edited by kenthomas4; Dec 14, 2024 at 05:23 PM.
Reason: Correct word
For the value wise figure out how much a 327-300 car is worth in the same condition plus the value of the sum of parts is under the hood. That fake trim tag is worse than a bad engine stamp IMO.
For the value wise figure out how much a 327-300 car is worth in the same condition plus the value of the sum of parts is under the hood. That fake trim tag is worse than a bad engine stamp IMO.
I am interested in hearing your reasoning on your comment. In my opinion, the 66 engine is a bigger issue than a replacement trim tag.
I am interested in hearing your reasoning on your comment. In my opinion, the 66 engine is a bigger issue than a replacement trim tag.
the engine is a consumable item. people have been replacing them since day one for many reasons. that trim tag is not. there is only one reason to replace that tag.
Did you get pics of the engine casting and stamped numbers and did you take a pic of that drivers side area above the oil filter pad to see whether it was a 4-bolt block?
Start at the top value-wise, the original L71 engine would be top of the heap. Everything after that is all wrapped up as being NOM but to my way of looking at it,
there are levels of NOM. The next level, again maybe only to me, would be another 1967 4-bolt 427, after that another year 4-bolt block. Running down the list, maybe a 2-bolt block.
My 66 L72 lost it's original 4-bolt block back in the late 70s as the story goes and in it's place...for now...is a very good running but sedate 68-vintage 396. With the original aluminum intake and
air cleaner and exhaust manifolds, for all practical purposes, it looks like the original would...but performance is no where near what a true high compression 427 would provide. I do have a 66 4-bolt in the wings for it.
So, we know it's a 66 dated block but for determining value, I'd still want to know if it is a 427 and maybe not a 396 and is it a 4-bolt block or not.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
face it folks, its happening... NOM cars going for 6 figures. probably not 142K, but I bet at least 100K. L88 clones are going for over 100K now ( easy to do) the resto mods are going for a lot more, but that is another class in itself.
I was involved with appraisals in 2007, and the going rate for original over NOM was plus 25%. so you are saying it is now 100%?
The owner sent me this when I questioned the trim tag;
“That’s the way that they come from the factory. Starting in early 1965 they started using rosette rivits on the VIN tag. From early 1960 until early 1965 they were spot welded on. The Feds. required that the manufacturers to use special rivets to attach the VIN plates that were not available to the general public to help with auto theft problems.That being said,the rivets in the VIN plate are absolutely correct. It also appears to have never been removed. The rivets in the trim tag are also correct.”
Z-bar looks like an AO Smith car (zinc chromate) yet the Trim Tag shows it to be a St Louis car. Though we're taught to not buy these cars as an investment, you certainly don't want to overpay knowing what the buyer's pool is going to look like when you eventually sell the car. If the OP is willing to spend this much money on a '67 427/435, real deal ones are out there
absolutely.... buy in at the right price. then when you sell it at the right price, you will have no "Buyers Pool" constraints.
rusty cars sell, fake cars sell, cars with no title sell, cars with no vin or trim tag sell, cars that don't belong to the seller sell, NOM cars sell...
doesn't mean they are a bastard.. it means that they sell... at the right price.
all this debate is based on overpaying for a car with an excuse.. the solution is simple.. don't overpay for a car.
absolutely.... buy in at the right price. then when you sell it at the right price, you will have no "Buyers Pool" constraints.
rusty cars sell, fake cars sell, cars with no title sell, cars with no vin or trim tag sell, cars that don't belong to the seller sell, NOM cars sell...
doesn't mean they are a bastard.. it means that they sell... at the right price.
all this debate is based on overpaying for a car with an excuse.. the solution is simple.. don't overpay for a car.
that is a great way of putting it. I have never seen any type of mid year not sell unless the price was shooting for the moon. There is a buyer for every type
$142k for a clone is worth looking at but an OEM matching numbers car is a waste of money... Really? A very nice NOM car can be had for much less than $142k.
