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You said you wanted to upgrade the radiator but you never said what was in the car now. The original radiator for all mid-year small blocks was an aluminum radiator 3155316. (Dewitts #941) Anything other than this is a downgrade. DeWitt's direct fit model number 1249063M is a nice replacement model. If you have a brass/copper replacement radiator, I would remove it and get one of the above models. With that said, the stop and go overheating is typically related to the vacuum advance as others have mentioned. It's pretty easy to test whether the vacuum can is working or not. With a timing light connected, attaching the vacuum hose to the vacuum can should result in a jump in timing and RPM. If you don't see any action then the vacuum can is probably dead. You need this additional timing at idle to prevent overheating at low RPM.
Last edited by Tom DeWitt; Mar 20, 2026 at 07:51 PM.
I've also seen bad fan clutches cause overheating on the highway on vehicles other than Corvettes, due to lack of airflow through the radiator. Sometimes 70mph of airflow isn't enough.
I know of 2 newer cars ( 30 years ago) that were having overheating issues while on the freeway only.. Owners took the car to the dealer ( on warranty) who replaced the fan clutches and the problem went away..
I've also seen bad fan clutches cause overheating on the highway on vehicles other than Corvettes, due to lack of airflow through the radiator. Sometimes 70mph of airflow isn't enough.
Originally Posted by Limp
I know of 2 newer cars ( 30 years ago) that were having overheating issues while on the freeway only.. Owners took the car to the dealer ( on warranty) who replaced the fan clutches and the problem went away..
These examples are anecdotal evidence that a bad fan clutch can indeed result in overheating.
I'm not sure I buy the lack of airflow theory, though. There is nothing preventing air from flowing thru the radiator. Too, whatever flow resistance is presented by the fan blades would seem to be the same whether they are stationary or rotating.
My hunch is that replacing the fan clutches on those cars merely covered up the real problem.
I'm confused as well, because it 'de-clutches' at operating temp (not just freeway speeds) although it never really free spins, it's like 20%
And if it's fully engaged all the time, the engine is roaring like a propeller driven airplane
I can sorta-kinda envision an electronically controlled fan clutch causing problems at speed as the car's brains get the wrong data and do things based on that wrong data...but this Sting Ray in question seems immune to that effect
I can almost believe they will overheat on the freeway with a bad fan as the radiator on the newer cars is woefully small. It amazes me how they cool even with the electric fans running full blast. If the fan stops, it becomes a restriction on air flow. Just a guess.
I am adding this for all of the " confused " on here...... One of the repairs was done to my sales managers car.... To be honest I thought that didn't make sense either, but he never had another overheating event with his car for the years we worked together.... I asked him about it frequently. ( being a car guy)....
So if this " was not the correct repair" replacing the declutching fan unit sure seemed to solve the problem on his car.... Had to think back and this would of been late 80's.....
I had vacuum canister on distributor go bad last fall and had in city running hot at times issues do to it was sucking air in thru canister made it lean and a little too much timing.
Capped vacuum port off and took a degree of timing out and it cooled off
Capped vacuum port off and took a degree of timing out and it cooled off
I think your results are the exception and not something I would recommend. Typically disabling the vacuum advance will result in higher coolant temperatures at idle due to the retarded timing
Capped vacuum port off and took a degree of timing out and it cooled off
I think your results are the exception and not something I would recommend. Typically disabling the vacuum advance will result in higher coolant temperatures due to the retarded timing
What is the timing reading while the motor is idling? You need around 25° to run cool at idle or low rpm. ( example, 12° initial timing + 13° vac. advance = 25°) Check your settings.
Any resolution? What was the problem turn out to be?
I have taken all suggestions posted here which were greatly appreciated and my mechanics are checking every suggestion out to see what works.
We took out the old radiator and are installing a new "DeWitts Direct-Fit Pro Series Radiator" with a single black aluminum fan.
Also installed a new water pump and reservoir, and all new hoses throughout the engine compartment. Checked timing as well.
We'll see what hapens.
Thanks again for all the suggestions......much appreciated !
I have taken all suggestions posted here which were greatly appreciated and my mechanics are checking every suggestion out to see what works.
We took out the old radiator and are installing a new "DeWitts Direct-Fit Pro Series Radiator" with a single black aluminum fan.
Also installed a new water pump and reservoir, and all new hoses throughout the engine compartment. Checked timing as well.
We'll see what hapens.
Thanks again for all the suggestions......much appreciated !
Your mechanics? If you had to solicit the internet to resolve an "over-heating" issue on a SBC.....you need to find new mechanics.