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I checked wires and all seemed tight and intact. I then took off the distributor cap and rotor and this is what I found. Looks like a clear plastic film probably from the Pertronix came loose and was partially torn, which can be seen in the photos. I’m only guessing that it may have momentarily disrupted the electrical connection and caused the shutdown. Maybe cranking the engine freed it up allowing my engine to restart. I’ll definitely replace the 25 year old Pertronix unit.
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
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St. Jude Donor '25
Originally Posted by warrenmj
Looks like you win😁
I checked wires and all seemed tight and intact. I then took off the distributor cap and rotor and this is what I found. Looks like a clear plastic film probably from the Pertronix came loose and was partially torn, which can be seen in the photos. I’m only guessing that it may have momentarily disrupted the electrical connection and caused the shutdown. Maybe cranking the engine freed it up allowing my engine to restart. I’ll definitely replace the 25 year old Pertronix unit.
Oh my. I'm not sure, but that looks to be a geriatric Pertronix with the 8 little trigger magnets in the ring that spins with the rotor.. Besides whatever film that looks to have delaminated from that ring, it was also possible for the magnets to get loose in those. I've been running Pertronix lobe sensor 1's for over 25 years. Two Pertronix units are in our boat that cruises all day at 3200 RPMs, and another one is in our 68 Mustang Convert. They have never missed a beat or needed adjusting after the initial install. When I bought our 65 Sting Ray back in 2020, it had one of those trigger magnet Pertronix units in it. As soon as I saw it, I replaced it with the lobe sensor pickup style. I don't rev my 65 above 5,000 RPMs, but it's still pulling hard at 5 grand when I shift. Proper installation is key to success with any ignition system.
Last edited by Six7390gt; Apr 22, 2026 at 09:25 PM.
Oh my. I'm not sure, but that looks to be a geriatric Pertronix with the 8 little trigger magnets in the ring that spins with the rotor.. Besides whatever film that looks to have delaminated from that ring, it was also possible for the magnets to get loose in those. I've been running Pertronix lobe sensor 1's for over 25 years. Two Pertronix units are in our boat that cruises all day at 3200 RPMs, and another one is in our 68 Mustang Convert. They have never missed a beat or needed adjusting after the initial install. When I bought our 65 Sting Ray back in 2020, it had one of those trigger magnet Pertronix units in it. As soon as I saw it, I replaced it with the lobe sensor pickup style. I don't rev my 65 above 5,000 RPMs, but it's still pulling hard at 5 grand when I shift. Proper installation is key to success with any ignition system.
My Pertronix in the photos is 25 years old and has worked flawlessly until now.
My Pertronix in the photos is 25 years old and has worked flawlessly until now.
Put a new set of points in it, cheap, easy and won’t just fail for no reason.
Or go with the Breakerless module, more expensive, but more reliable than pertronix JMO
Put a new set of points in it, cheap, easy and won’t just fail for no reason.
Or go with the Breakerless module, more expensive, but more reliable than pertronix JMO
I ordered the breakerless module from LECTRIC Limited last night🍻
Does that breakerless module want the same coil primary winding resistance that your existing coil has? Best to verify this.
I think I'd carry a spare coil of the correct primary resistance, at least until you've satisfied yourself that the Pertronix unit was in fact the cause of your no-run/no-start failure. And the necessary tools to swap the coils.
While you're into the distributor, I would also run a continuity check on the wiring from the - post of the coil to the module, and from the breaker plate to chassis ground, each of those tests while using a MityVac to swing the breaker plate a few times to both ends of its arc via the vacuum advance. Watch carefully for blips while the plate is moving. An analog meter would be best for this, but digital will suffice if you move things slowly and monitor the reading closely.
Does that breakerless module want the same coil primary winding resistance that your existing coil has? Best to verify this.
I think I'd carry a spare coil of the correct primary resistance, at least until you've satisfied yourself that the Pertronix unit was in fact the cause of your no-run/no-start failure. And the necessary tools to swap the coils.
While you're into the distributor, I would also run a continuity check on the wiring from the - post of the coil to the module, and from the breaker plate to chassis ground, each of those tests while using a MityVac to swing the breaker plate a few times to both ends of its arc via the vacuum advance. Watch carefully for blips while the plate is moving. An analog meter would be best for this, but digital will suffice if you move things slowly and monitor the reading closely.
Live well,
SJW
The Lectric one uses the stock coil and ballast resistor.
I ordered the breakerless module from LECTRIC Limited last night🍻
Pay attention to SJW's post above. Make sure you read and follow the Breakerless SE instructions to the letter.
I know that many here run a Pertronix product and believe in them, enjoy telling the rest of us that they have never had a problem. I have read about and personally witnessed enough Pertronix failures that I would advise they be immediately removed and replaced with points, Breakerless SE or HEI, all known to be reliable are a better bet. I would never recommend the product to anyone. Way too much heartache and risk on the side of the road, and completely avoidable.
How can you possibly recommend that unit when you don't know how much vacuum the OP's engine produces at warm idle? Typically, the recommended vacuum cannister for an L79 is the B26...B28 is way to aggressive (and, pretty useless) on a stock L79 producing 14-15" Hg at idle
How can you possibly recommend that unit when you don't know how much vacuum the OP's engine produces at warm idle? Typically, the recommended vacuum cannister for an L79 is the B26...B28 is way to aggressive (and, pretty useless) on a stock L79 producing 14-15" Hg at idle
Lars replaced my vacuum advance about four years ago, which is a B26, when he did a power tune on my car, which has run flawlessly until last week. Also, my L-79 only gets 12-13” at idle due to my 6200’ elevation in Colorado.
Given the poor quality of so many replacement parts these days, I would not remove a vacuum advance can that was in good working order and was correct for the application.
Given the poor quality of so many replacement parts these days, I would not remove a vacuum advance can that was in good working order and was correct for the application.
Kevin,
Very nice explanation between the three different Pertronix systems. Gen III certainly looks like it would be more reliable than the first two...which were horror shows. For Marshall, or anyone else considering leaving points and condenser behind, I might recommend the Breakerless SE system. I have used this system, as have many others, for many, many years without any issues/failures whatsoever. Just another option.
I second this.....has been perfect for at least three years.
I was able to install the new Lectric Limited Breakerless SE and my car is running again. I did create a separate thread as I had a wiring issue with the new LL setup vs the old Pertronix wiring, but it’s now running great. Thanks for everyone’s help on this🍻
This is the other thread I started. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...follow-up.html
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