Restoration question
TIA,
Brad
TIA,
Brad
I have degreased the engine and it looks like the paint is gone
Some parts are supposed to be flat black, some gloss black and some semi flat black and some semi gloss black. When I did my restoration I never knew there were so many shades of black. (Can drive you nuts) If you want to be that fussy, I suggest you buy the NCRS Technical/Judging Manual for your car (www.ncrs.org) and it will tell you EXACTLY what color and shade every part should look like. I found it to be extremely helpful, if you want the original appearance.
Kurt
Some parts are supposed to be flat black, some gloss black and some semi flat black and some semi gloss black. When I did my restoration I never knew there were so many shades of black. (Can drive you nuts) If you want to be that fussy, I suggest you buy the NCRS Technical/Judging Manual for your car (www.ncrs.org) and it will tell you EXACTLY what color and shade every part should look like. I found it to be extremely helpful, if you want the original appearance.
Kurt
exactly
The intake manifold used to be polished and the valve covers were freshly painted.
Now what I'm doing this winter is nickel and copper plate everything that fits in the bucket. Aluminum anodized.
You can do this yourself with kits from caswell but you need to be doing a considerable amount to make it worth it. There is a considerable amount under the hood.
The rear end that broke 7 years ago is the seed that started this plating project.
Was thinking about machining my own aluminum pulleys but don't need to now, plate the steel ones.
Master cylinder, hood latches water pump, alternator, various brackets
valve covers... yada yada yada. If it comes of its copper or nickle or, not sure yet on the anodizing.
Why this need to nickel plate? The rear end was rusted and the engine bay is too. Paint just don't last long enough for me. Nickel if it does rust takes a whole lot longer.
If your manifold is aluminum you can polish it, if iron you still can but needs clear coat. Really depends on how far you want to go off the deep end.
The right strut rod is copper but don't show well in the picture. Copper plating over nickel is to make it smooth. Smooth is SHiiiiiiiiiiny.
This is about what my engine looked like when I started on it. A little paint, a few new parts, and a dab of chrome and this is what I ended up with. Just take your time and don't paint everything the same color black. Use contrasting shades for the best results.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I have also seen people who left the block in and removed the accesories, pressure washed the engine bay. Painted the engine, taped up the engine and painted the rest of the engine bay, then put it all back together.
Here are my pics:
Before

After

Cheers,
Pete
How did you get your alternator to look that good?
Mine seems pitted
Anybody used the POR15 kit?
Were you happy with it?
TIA,
Brad
I bought my Chevy Orange paints from Eastwood.com. They sell a spray can and also a 2 part Chevy Orange paint that is supposed to be really tough (two part - paint plus catalyst). They sell a Preval Spray can ( an aerosol spray gun that allows you to add the paint you want to spray). You mix the two part Chevy Orange into the Preval Spray can and away you go. PS The Easwood Chevy Orange in the 2 part can is described as "Vermillion." This means it has a definate red tint. There's a lot of Chevy Orange paints for sale. Unfortunately they differ in color. Some of them are more towards an yellowish orange and some are reddish-orange. What is the correct tint??? If I had to guess, I think the reddish-orange color is correct.
I have a ZZ4 engine and the engine is BLACK!!!. I plan to paint it Chevy Orange. And then it will go into my 1968. The ZZ4 has crayon markings,etc. If I paint it orange, will I destroy it's originality value??? (I'm making a weak attempt to be humerous here!)
Comments about Chevy Orange tints??
Kurt



















