When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07-'09
Towing Question with an Automatic????
Can an early C3 (68-72) Vette be towed, wheels on the ground, with a Turbo 350 or 400 and not do any damage to the transmission? I know in early years of powerglides there was a rear pump to move the fluid and you could actually drift start the car. Most new cars from like 1980 on would be damaged if towed. thanks
Mark
G'day,
Quote from 1974 Corvette Owner's Manual, page 40:-
Towing
"Your Corvette may be towed on all four wheels, at speeds of less than 35 mph, for distances up to 50 miles, provided the drive-line, axle, transmission, and steering system are otherwise normally operable."
G'day,
Quote from 1974 Corvette Owner's Manual, page 40:-
Towing
"Your Corvette may be towed on all four wheels, at speeds of less than 35 mph, for distances up to 50 miles, provided the drive-line, axle, transmission, and steering system are otherwise normally operable."
There you have it, straight from Chevrolet.
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
This is what I've been told by numerous mechanics as a general rule for most auto transmissions. If you need to tow it farther and/or faster, disconnect the drive shaft or elevate the rear wheels off the ground. I've personally thought about buying one of those car dollies from U-Haul when they sell their used ones. Think of all the tows ($$) you could save on all the family cars!
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I used to work as an instructor at the GM Training Center teaching TH350 and 400. The 35/50 figure given by aussiejohn is correct. I used to tell students that a safer number (and easier to remember) is 35/35. This absolutely assures that you will not do any damage from lack of pressure lubrication in the tranny.
Lars
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07-'09
Thanks to all who replied!!! As you all know by now I sold my 72 and I am now looking for my next project. Seems there is not much for sale in my area so hence the towing question....someway to get it home....if and when I find it...
Mark
When I purchased my '80 I rented a U-Haul Auto Carrier. There is a specific carrier code for vehicles that are low to the ground. The entire car is up on the carrier and strapped down. It worked great, for a 300 mile trip home. No sweat, no damage and no hassle. And the carrier, with Vette, towed easily behind my Ram.
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07-'09
Originally Posted by Old Black Chevy
When I purchased my '80 I rented a U-Haul Auto Carrier. There is a specific carrier code for vehicles that are low to the ground. The entire car is up on the carrier and strapped down. It worked great, for a 300 mile trip home. No sweat, no damage and no hassle. And the carrier, with Vette, towed easily behind my Ram.
Old Black Chevy
Great idea, thanks. I forgot abut the old reliable "UHAUL"
Mark
All of my cars get towed with a flatbed. I always make sure to let the tow company know that I only want a flatbed to come out. They always oblige. If a company does not have a flatbed (very rare these days) then I call a different company.
When I purchased my '80 I rented a U-Haul Auto Carrier. There is a specific carrier code for vehicles that are low to the ground. The entire car is up on the carrier and strapped down. It worked great, for a 300 mile trip home. No sweat, no damage and no hassle. And the carrier, with Vette, towed easily behind my Ram.
Old Black Chevy
That's how I moved both of my C3's (Tampa, FL to Ohio). On both trips, they recommended the full galvanized trailer. No sweat and no worries. Pulled the '69 behind my '03 Z71 in 'Tow/Haul Mode' and two solid days of rain... Second trip, used a 17' UHaul truck (had to 'move' that trip...) with the '80 on a full trailer.
Best $600 I ever spent on a car trailer ($300 x 2)... two (2) 1,100 mile trips... the 17' truck was another $800...
I like the U-Haul car carrier/trailer; no problems and simple to use.
U-Haul car trailers (at least the galvanized trailers I used) also have a sophisticated hydraulic 'surge braking' system. Activation of the trailer brakes is controlled by the amount of 'surge' on the toungue (sp.) of the trailer. If you tap the brakes, barely any braking. If you really lean on the brakes, the trailer brakes respond accordingly as the trailer surges against the hydraulic device that sits between the trailer and the hitch. Gave me comfort in the Smoky Mountains knowing the brakes were on-demand and variable. I had considered and passed over a simpler, econo 2-axle trailer with an older electronic braking system.