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Towing Question with an Automatic????

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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 10:01 PM
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Default Towing Question with an Automatic????

Can an early C3 (68-72) Vette be towed, wheels on the ground, with a Turbo 350 or 400 and not do any damage to the transmission? I know in early years of powerglides there was a rear pump to move the fluid and you could actually drift start the car. Most new cars from like 1980 on would be damaged if towed. thanks
Mark
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 10:35 PM
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Drain the trans. and remove the driveshaft. Plug the open tailshaft.
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 11:36 PM
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No rear pump on the Turbos. Either do like big_G said and pull the drive shaft or lift the rear wheels of the ground.
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 11:37 PM
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drain ????? just pull the shaft,and plug
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Old Oct 10, 2005 | 11:50 PM
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And if the plug pops out going down the road? I'd hate to be the car following..
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 08:06 AM
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Default Towing

G'day,
Quote from 1974 Corvette Owner's Manual, page 40:-

Towing
"Your Corvette may be towed on all four wheels, at speeds of less than 35 mph, for distances up to 50 miles, provided the drive-line, axle, transmission, and steering system are otherwise normally operable."

There you have it, straight from Chevrolet.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by aussiejohn
G'day,
Quote from 1974 Corvette Owner's Manual, page 40:-

Towing
"Your Corvette may be towed on all four wheels, at speeds of less than 35 mph, for distances up to 50 miles, provided the drive-line, axle, transmission, and steering system are otherwise normally operable."

There you have it, straight from Chevrolet.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn
This is what I've been told by numerous mechanics as a general rule for most auto transmissions. If you need to tow it farther and/or faster, disconnect the drive shaft or elevate the rear wheels off the ground. I've personally thought about buying one of those car dollies from U-Haul when they sell their used ones. Think of all the tows ($$) you could save on all the family cars!
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 11:28 AM
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I used to work as an instructor at the GM Training Center teaching TH350 and 400. The 35/50 figure given by aussiejohn is correct. I used to tell students that a safer number (and easier to remember) is 35/35. This absolutely assures that you will not do any damage from lack of pressure lubrication in the tranny.
Lars
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 10:16 PM
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Thanks to all who replied!!! As you all know by now I sold my 72 and I am now looking for my next project. Seems there is not much for sale in my area so hence the towing question....someway to get it home....if and when I find it...
Mark
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 07:12 AM
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I flatbed my baby.... I'd never leave the wheels on the ground during a tow.
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 08:06 AM
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When I purchased my '80 I rented a U-Haul Auto Carrier. There is a specific carrier code for vehicles that are low to the ground. The entire car is up on the carrier and strapped down. It worked great, for a 300 mile trip home. No sweat, no damage and no hassle. And the carrier, with Vette, towed easily behind my Ram.

Old Black Chevy
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Black Chevy
When I purchased my '80 I rented a U-Haul Auto Carrier. There is a specific carrier code for vehicles that are low to the ground. The entire car is up on the carrier and strapped down. It worked great, for a 300 mile trip home. No sweat, no damage and no hassle. And the carrier, with Vette, towed easily behind my Ram.

Old Black Chevy
Great idea, thanks. I forgot abut the old reliable "UHAUL"
Mark
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeRags
I flatbed my baby.... I'd never leave the wheels on the ground during a tow.
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 08:16 AM
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All of my cars get towed with a flatbed. I always make sure to let the tow company know that I only want a flatbed to come out. They always oblige. If a company does not have a flatbed (very rare these days) then I call a different company.
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mbeeman350
Great idea, thanks. I forgot abut the old reliable "UHAUL"
Mark
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Black Chevy
When I purchased my '80 I rented a U-Haul Auto Carrier. There is a specific carrier code for vehicles that are low to the ground. The entire car is up on the carrier and strapped down. It worked great, for a 300 mile trip home. No sweat, no damage and no hassle. And the carrier, with Vette, towed easily behind my Ram.

Old Black Chevy
That's how I moved both of my C3's (Tampa, FL to Ohio). On both trips, they recommended the full galvanized trailer. No sweat and no worries. Pulled the '69 behind my '03 Z71 in 'Tow/Haul Mode' and two solid days of rain... Second trip, used a 17' UHaul truck (had to 'move' that trip...) with the '80 on a full trailer.

Best $600 I ever spent on a car trailer ($300 x 2)... two (2) 1,100 mile trips... the 17' truck was another $800...

Last edited by TedH; Oct 12, 2005 at 09:08 AM.
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 10:03 AM
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I like the U-Haul car carrier/trailer; no problems and simple to use.
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Chopper Larry
I like the U-Haul car carrier/trailer; no problems and simple to use.
U-Haul car trailers (at least the galvanized trailers I used) also have a sophisticated hydraulic 'surge braking' system. Activation of the trailer brakes is controlled by the amount of 'surge' on the toungue (sp.) of the trailer. If you tap the brakes, barely any braking. If you really lean on the brakes, the trailer brakes respond accordingly as the trailer surges against the hydraulic device that sits between the trailer and the hitch. Gave me comfort in the Smoky Mountains knowing the brakes were on-demand and variable. I had considered and passed over a simpler, econo 2-axle trailer with an older electronic braking system.
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