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Front vs back discrepancies.

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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 01:52 PM
  #1  
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From: Austin Tx
Default Front vs back discrepancies.

I started messing around with my ‘no history’ 68 with the back end, working on the brakes. The entire frame, rear half axles, etc are all coated with a generous coating of rust. Everything I messed with took a lot of bolt spray/wire brushing to get to the bolts.

Up front, the frame is still painted nice and black, the bolts look mostly new, and there is very little rust.

Is that normal, or did someone along the way just keep better care of the front half?
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 01:55 PM
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3 things at play here....The front wheels spray water onto the frame behind them, and the heat coming from the engine tends to dry the front portion of the frame, and lastly, the engine oil leaks prevent rust!.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 02:00 PM
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Nothing like an oil leak to keep things from rusting a leaking engine, trans and diff are a blessing in disguise
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 02:32 PM
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Yes, oil leaks are sometimes a blessing .. unless you are
scraping 30 years of differential lube from the fiberglass belly.
Don't discount the fact that someone may have rebuilt the front
suspension/etc and cleaned/painted while in there.
It might be time to do the rear, but it sounds like you are already started.

Check out www.por15.com
Also, Rust Bullet and Rust Encapulator are similar products.

Here are some pics to interest you ... my caliper/MC rebuild thread.
They are finished (outside) with silver POR15 ... won't melt with brake fluid.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...um_id=3&arch=1


Last edited by NHvette; Oct 17, 2005 at 02:46 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 02:45 PM
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From: Austin Tx
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Originally Posted by NHvette
Check out www.por15.com
Also, Rust Bullet and Rust Encapulator are similar products.

it appears that those are for once the part is cleaned, yes? Other then total pulling apart and sandblasting, whats the best way to remove rust while it's all together still?
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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Yes - but POR15 applies well over lightly rusted surfaces.
Paint-Over-Rust
Wirebrush and/or sandpaper will get most of it.
To be thorough, I alway recommend a Phosphoric Acid solution.
POR has Metal Ready, but you can find others at retail outplets.
I liek Must for Rust (used to be at Home Depot) and Naval Jelly ...everywhere.
These solutions will dissolve the rust and treat the surface
for better adhesion.

... I added a link to my brake caliper post above ...
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 05:11 PM
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Its because the previous owner drove the car backwards into the shallow end of the pool. His buddy, Chet, then pulled the car out with with his F350 and winch.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Nvts
it appears that those are for once the part is cleaned, yes? Other then total pulling apart and sandblasting, whats the best way to remove rust while it's all together still?
As long as you remove any loose rust Rust Bullet and Rust Encapsulator can be painted onto the rusted surface. Like any other paint, the surface has to be as clean as possible for good results. Painting over 1/4" of spooge won't work. I wish it would - I would have been done a long time ago.

Rick B.
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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 03:35 PM
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I have nothing to add except "Hiya!"

Dellz06 aka Glylvyn

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Old Oct 21, 2005 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by big_G
3 things at play here....The front wheels spray water onto the frame behind them, and the heat coming from the engine tends to dry the front portion of the frame, and lastly, the engine oil leaks prevent rust!.
So that's why I have a no rust/all leak car.
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