Leaking caliper....replace or repair?


Are these things rebuildable by an "average mechanic" or should I just swap it for a $tainless $teel rebuilt unit? I have seen the rebuild kits, but don't want to waste my time just to save a few bucks.
I have thought about new ones for the front and try to rebuild the rears.
Thanks for any experience..........
Last edited by mandm1200; Jul 18, 2006 at 09:12 PM.
Weird we're having the same problem.
Not trying to hijack your thread, but I thought it would be a good place to ask.My front right caliper was wet this afternoon when I looked, I took it into the guy who does alot of the work for me thats beyond my skill level.
The car already has stainless steel calipers from about 12-14 years ago, so does that mean I don't need them replaced and can have them repaired? Always, or is it conditional?
I'm looking at $425 for two new calipers and a brake job up front, complete w/ rotors machined and such, and trying to decide if I can get off cheaper. Safety issues concern me a lot though.
I want to make sure Im not getting talked into new calipers when repairing my old SS ones is a better option.
New AC Delco with oring seals.
Rebuilt with lip seals.
Rebuilt with oring seals.
Rebuild your calipers if they have been sleeved.
Choice comes down to how many times do you want to do this job?
My preference is the AC Delco calipers after many years with these cars and watching parts evolve I think they are the best part available. Lip seals will eventually leak again on a car that is driven occasionally. Oring seals will last longer but there are debates on orings with a floating caliper design not being a good match. If GM can license and put their name on that design it must be okay especially if you don't race the car as the original design was intended.
Rebuilt caliper reliability depends on the core quality and the rebuilders quality control within the shop. There are too many variables with sleeve fitting and core quality that require a certain level of accuracy and inspection. Lonestar oring style would be my choice for rebuilts because they have very high quality standards but you can't buy direct, you'll need to go through a distributor.
Safety is #1 and I always ensure the "whoa" is good to go before working on the "go" but replacing calipers is a pretty straightforward job. Bolt on bolt off, bleed lines. Most frustrating part is bleeding the lines after an install - just when I'm about to give up the last bubble comes out!
A bonus to the Advance/Autozone route is if you have a leaker over time they are lifetime warranted as well. I can pull one off and swap them out in an afternoon. In other words no mailing the part back in and hoping the core is good/refunded and they honor my warranty, etc. All in all minimal down time. You can even pick-up pads, brake hoses, front wheel bearings while your there.
Also, I like to do my own work - one of the reasons I'm in the hobby. Real satisfaction in the end results. Just remember to go slow and when going on a test drive go sloooowww. Hit the boards here often with questions. That's what we are here for!
Now if you track your car that’s a different story…
One last thing, should you go the Advance/Autozone route take your brake line and bleeder screw with you. I'll admit, I've had to take one back because the threads were stripped. Easy fix is to test in the store before purchase. Some will say that is a sign of lower quality but I’ve read here of the big venders having the same problem.
Last edited by 2TONE82; Jul 18, 2006 at 09:55 PM.


......The 425.oo is reasonable providing they replace both calipers...machine the disks...use a decent brake pad. I think the other replies agree....
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
If you have more money than you do time, get a rebuilt caliper. if you have even more money, have someone else put it on for you. then, give your wife $50 bucks to get her nails done while you play a round of golf and wait for the Vette to get fixed.
or, if you like to fix things or are short on funds, rebuild the caliper you have.
it helps if you have an impact to get them apart. take your time and be careful removing the bleeders... might be stuck in there.
buy a $10 brake hone to smooth it out.
rebuild kit is another whopping $12.
next, have fun bleeding the system... While you are fighting with that, send the wife out to get her nails done with all the money you saved. it will help her forget about you spending all your time with that "freaking Corvette!!!"
Aloha


If you have more money than you do time, NOPE.. get a rebuilt caliper. if you have even more money,...NOPE.... have someone else put it on for you. then, give your wife $50 bucks to get her CALIPERS done while you play a round of golf and wait for the Vette to get fixed.
or, if you like to fix things ...YES...or are short on funds, ....YES....rebuild the caliper you have. ....YES...
it helps if you have an impact to get them apart. take your time and be careful removing the bleeders... might be stuck in there.
buy a $10 brake hone to smooth it out.
rebuild kit is another whopping $12.
next, have fun bleeding the system... ALWAYS.... While you are fighting with that, send the wife out to get her nails done with all the money you saved. it will help her forget about you spending all your time with that "freaking Corvette!!!"
The 74 IS HERS !....Crazy Woman....
....I'm just the fix it boy !Aloha
Last edited by fotyfobravo; Jul 18, 2006 at 11:31 PM.
A word of advice. The C-2 and C-3's are a pain to bleed manually at times. I would consider investing $60 in a Motive Power Brake Bleeder. It would be one of the best investments you ever made on your Corvette. Trust me. Been there and done that for the last 36 years. Got my Motive bleeder 2 years ago and don't know how I ever did without it especially owning 2 Vette's now.
No, I don't work for Rik.
Funny thing was my calipers looked like one half of each had the nice shiny new SS sleeves, and one half of each had the crappy pourous china sleeves. I am low on cash and rebuilt anyway. work fine for now, i'll spend money later. If the aluminum pistons are beat up you might be in for another 20 to 30 bucks.
before i got my vette all i ever did was a radiator install in my old van, if i did it you can















