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There is an article in Chevy hp magazine that talks about how much bumpsteer is in our cars and that the steeriods helps out a bit in the geometry were it moves the inner tierod pickup points inboard,givingyou the ability to adjust the height at the outer tierod to tune the bump.What they mean is your inner tierod should be were your lower control arm bushings pivot point is and run along the lower A/arm and outer tierod with lower balljoint.
actually what they mean is that your tierod should point to the virtual swing arm center of the suspension corner, meaning the instantaneous center of the virtual extended lower and upper control arms and pivot at the plane though the upper and lower cross shaft with the outer tie rod spaced so that the tie rod points directly to the IC and will do so throughout the entire suspsension travel. Depending on the position above or under the lower control arm the pivot point changes and so does the outer tie rod height, The higher you go the wider your pivot points are spaced apart, at the lower cross shafts it's about 16" and below it's even less.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Jul 29, 2006 at 06:35 AM.
actually what they mean is that your tierod should point to the virtual swing arm center of the suspension corner, maening the instantaneous center of the virtual extended lower and upper control arms and pivot at the plane though the upper and lower cross shaft with the outer tie rod spaced so that the tie rod points directo the IC and will do so throughout the entire suspsension travel. Depending on the position above or under the lower control arm the pivot point changes and so does the outer tie rod height, The higher you go the wider tour pivot points are spaced apart, at the lower cross shafts it's about 16" and below it's even less.
Yup!
And I suppose maybe mine is a little better with the bumpsteer now. Still not as responsive as my chevy colorado though! By responsive, I don't mean overall handling, just initial steering response and overall "feel" that is very subjective, and probably impossible for me to quantify here.
Installed Steeroids power rack and a KRC pump a year ago, VERY happy with it, but I was going from no power to a power rack, anything was an improvement....................Did minor reinforcements but for street cars what comes should be more than adequate.............
Does the steeroids conversion have any issues with the VB&P front monoleaf system? I'm considering it as one of my future improvements, but I'd rather have a monoleaf and a the original steering system than steeroids and the stock front suspension system.
I did my own, mostly due to the cost and general wimpyness of the brackets. I used 1/4" plate and two big reinforcing ribs. There is no movement in the brackets.
I drive mine on a fairly demanding high speed road course and the feel was outstanding. Of course I have modified the pump flow a little using a classified method
Speedway motors sells restrictors for the pumps if you wil use AN fittings.
The system performed wonderfully on the track. the car does still tramline a little on heavilly rutted roads but I have 255 17 Kuhmo Escta's on the front which are known for that. The R&P however makes it controllable!
Does the steeroids conversion have any issues with the VB&P front monoleaf system? I'm considering it as one of my future improvements, but I'd rather have a monoleaf and a the original steering system than steeroids and the stock front suspension system.