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Propane was used when the solder was a 50/50 to 60/40 Tin/Lead mix and was plenty hot enough for that. When they went to 75/25 and later 95/5 (to reduce the lead usage), map gas is needed to get the proper flow of the solder.
Using MAP gas with the [older] higher lead content solder is problematic because it will actually burn the solder away fairly quickly and leaky joints are a high probability.
So, check the solder label and use the appropriate gas.
And as was previously correctly stated, wipe the flux off the joints to prevent the green corrosion.
I have'nt seen the old lead solder for sale for years. If you can't get it hot enough with propane, then you have got the wrong tip. Different sizes are available just as they are for oxy/acetylene torches.
i've been a plumber for over 30 yrs. and i've seen joints with a lotta green on them that weren't even soldered. the corrosion of the flux actually held the joint together. get a new elbow, clean the pipe with sandcloth and the fitting with a fitting brush... flux both and solder together with 95/5. map or propane will do.
Heres a cool little trick when soldering copper pipe. If the water continues to drip while soldering it will make for a bad joint so shove a piece of bread(small) into the pipe. Keeps the water from running out just long enough to get a good joint.
Dissolves and flushes out as soon as you turn the water back on.
Kona
Also, my local hardware store sells a putty like substance in their plumbing section. Apparently you roll this stuff up into a ball and stuff it into the copper pipe to keep water from oozing out and ruining your soldering job. Like the bread, it also dissolves harmlessly when you start flowing water.
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