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I'm New Here just found this stingray contacted the seller and he has it on hold for me with a deposit.
1976 Stingray 115,000 manual 4 speed t-tops.
Rebuilt engine about 2 years ago, New interior, Clear Title, New Paint Job also 2 years ago, New Brakes, Owner was working on the car and has receipts for up to $6,000 worth of repairs.
Have you physically seen the car, ya know,,, touched it, I'd like to see if the bra is covering up anything, how is the frame or birdcage, rust,,, ?
if it checks out ok, it's your money and if ya really want it,,, I'd try to dicker it down some, welcome to the forum,,,,Peace,,, Moosie
$9k for a high mileage '76 is not a good price, the $6k of work you mentioned is much closer to a good price.
Also, the door alignment (both sides,as near as I can tell from pics) is not encouraging, and I don't recognize those mirrors.
If the frame is ok, and it runs and drives well, and if you can get it for $4k-7K, you might be alright.
Steve
Totally disagree sorry Steve. The original may have paid the $6K & put another $6K making it look as good as it does. So $8500 would be a great price for a vette that doesn't need a ton of work.
Have you physically seen the car, ya know,,, touched it, I'd like to see if the bra is covering up anything, how is the frame or birdcage, rust,,, ?
if it checks out ok, it's your money and if ya really want it,,, I'd try to dicker it down some, welcome to the forum,,,,Peace,,, Moosie
My Father has seen it up close, these are pictures i have only gotten from online, my father placed a deposit for me to see it this coming tuesday. Any specific areas to look for rust? I check the forums but couldnt find a "buyer's checklist" on what to look for.
We will most likely be taking it if there is no frame damage, with the new paint job im sure he must have taken care of the rust.
My Father has seen it up close, these are pictures i have only gotten from online, my father placed a deposit for me to see it this coming tuesday. Any specific areas to look for rust? I check the forums but couldnt find a "buyer's checklist" on what to look for.
We will most likely be taking it if there is no frame damage, with the new paint job im sure he must have taken care of the rust.
-Soul
Check for frame rust just in front of the rear wheels going forward under the doors, near the kick ups by the control arms (rear) and for the birdcage near the door openings on either side up towards the top near where the fenders are,, in the area near the trim tag is, also check for the windshield frame , mine is so rusty that when I rode over bumps in the road , flecks of rust would rain down onto me, the console and the passenger, all you needed was a bar of soap and a towel if you drove in the rain. Down inside at the kick panels is a place to check for birdcage rust also,, but sellers usually get annoyed if you start taking their cars apart. Dont be so sure that any rust issues were taken care of just because it was painted recently,,,,the body's dont rust. Good luck,,,,,Peace,,,Moosie
is that a NJ historic tag on the car i see?
if so where in NJ are you, if you are close
enough i would be willing to come and take
a look at it with you.
Like the others said, look into the frame and birdcage rust, if it looks ok then its a pretty good deal. Not stellar, but a good deal. With all the work he aparently has recipts for all you have to do is cosmetic and performance enhancements. The WS Frame rust would concerne me more than the rest of the car, but that too can be fixed.
If it looks good and toots your whistle, go for it and welcome aboard
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
I paid 6500 for mine, and it was freshly painted with 50K originial miles. That was five years ago so if we adjust for inflation, hmmm it still seems high when I compare.
Remember XXX number of dollars for REPAIRS means nothing, other than that the car was never fixed by the owner, just driven to a shop.
Looks like it's sitting on a used car lot.....so if the owner of the lot is providing financing and your not paying cash up front the the original price is fine.
Inspect the car on a lift if at all possible, and get a local CF member to come look at it with you, may will be willing if they are close. Until you get it in the air it's tough to see much underneath.
"don't let that fancy paint job fool you"
(Wall of VooDoo - Call of the West)
I would also look around the cowl where the fenders are bonded to the body, look at the doors where the hinges attach, look in the fender wells and finally look behind the rear fender wells. Often these areas will show if it has been wrecked and repaired. If you see bonding seems cracked or fresh fiber glass repairs you have negotiating leverage or the seeya option.
The price seems OK My 75 With 44k miles with small problems Needed A radiator And front Brake Calipers Hoses And pads Front & back Bumpers And I paid 10.5ks For It and I would do It Again The car runs
GREAT.My Question is what happened to the motor that it need re-built at 115k miles that would be my concern and rust of course you dont need a parts car good luck let the forum know what happens .