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My used C3 came without them, so I ordered some from Zip. Unfortunately, if I screw them all the way in, they go flush to the plate and leave no way to put the roofs on. If I back them out to the approximate place, they are thread-loose in the hole. How do these work originally? What to do, what to do?
There should be a notch under the lip and toward the back of each top panel. The top of the triangle fits into that notch. The triangle should only have to stick out about 1/4" for it to go into the notch. If yours is different, post some pictures of the notched area on the panel and the placement of the triangles. Maybe someone can see what the problem is.
Here is where the triangle guide pin fits into the top. Notice that there needs to be a bit of a gap behind the head of the triangle pin:
Here is (driver's side) the pin screwed in, flush. Notice that there is no gap:
Here is (passenger's side) the pin screwed in loose to make a gap. However, it is loose in the threads, freely spinnable with your fingers, and I fear they will fall out one day:
Here is the pin itself. I'm wondering if the part between the threads and the head shouldn't be wider, to stop it from going in all the way.
That slot that is in the threads should be filled with hard nylon plastic. It don't look like yours have any plastic in there. I have a new set here in front of me and the plastic is dark green in color on these. The plastic is like what is on a nylon lock nut and works in the same way. If you turn it in or out to much you wear the nylon off and then they get loose and sloppy. I have these two for sale if you need new ones. These are new ones from GM and I'll sell them for $5.00 ea. and I also think I may have the plates the screw into also. I'd have to check to make sure. But I'd sell them cheap also. Now mine stick out about 3/8 " THey should not screw in all the way to the plate. Take yours and get them to fit in the top and it will give you an idea of how much they need to stick out. They are triangle shaped so you adjust them a little bit at a time. Always one of the points of the triangle point up so as to fit in the slot of your top. Just turn them a little bit a time till you get them adjusted.
Thanks LQQK, now I know what is wrong. Thanks for the offer for yours, but shipping will be prohibitive (I'm in New Zealand). I suppose I'll just gum up the threads with something.
Thanks LQQK, now I know what is wrong. Thanks for the offer for yours, but shipping will be prohibitive (I'm in New Zealand). I suppose I'll just gum up the threads with something.
I thought about using locktite, but I didn't like the thought of gumming up the threads in there in a way that I might not be able to undo. I think I found a better solution. I've wrapped the threads 4-6 times with plumbers thread tape. Makes a nice snug yet turnable fit, and it's easy to undo: just unscrew and pull off the tape.
Wow, didn't know you were that far away. How about a little JB Weld on those threads? Would it cost a lot to send them by USPS in an envelope? I'm not to bright when it comes to international mail. If we can figure out something I'd like to help you out.
Thanks LQQK, now I know what is wrong. Thanks for the offer for yours, but shipping will be prohibitive (I'm in New Zealand). I suppose I'll just gum up the threads with something.
Once you get them adjusted use some loctite, and you should be good to go.
I thought about using locktite, but I didn't like the thought of gumming up the threads in there in a way that I might not be able to undo. I think I found a better solution. I've wrapped the threads 4-6 times with plumbers thread tape. Makes a nice snug yet turnable fit, and it's easy to undo: just unscrew and pull off the tape.
That is the purpose of the non-hardening Loc-tite, to be able to undo the threads. Your solution sounds great. Good luck with it.