I'm in the middle of the same thing.....
started gutting the interior
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
started gutting the interior
finaly got sick of my old interior, so i started ripping pieces out today.
everything was going well, up till now.
atleast the passenger side wasnt so bad.
seat bolts wouldnt budge. bout this point in time i figured it was a good point to stop and call it a day.
everything was going well, up till now.
atleast the passenger side wasnt so bad.
seat bolts wouldnt budge. bout this point in time i figured it was a good point to stop and call it a day.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Seat covers don't look too bad [from what could be seen in the photos]. If no tears, you could re-fill the channels with new scrim foam and dye them back to good shape. Anyway, looks like you have your hands full for a while. {Been there....done that!} Good luck.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,971
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From: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
"seat bolts wouldnt budge. bout this point in time i figured it was a good point to stop and call it a day."
Give them several applications of penetrating oil and let it work for a few days. The bolts screw into nuts welded to the underside of the floor. If you break the nuts loose it's a real pain to reinstall them.
Give them several applications of penetrating oil and let it work for a few days. The bolts screw into nuts welded to the underside of the floor. If you break the nuts loose it's a real pain to reinstall them.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
after sitting back and just looking over these pictures, ive gotten to the point of "what the hell have i gotten my self into"
ive got alot of work and a long way to go, but in the end it will be worth it.
first question on the project too, whats the best way to remove tar? the whole interior has a layer of it that was put down for sound deadening.
kerosen and a putty knife?
ive got alot of work and a long way to go, but in the end it will be worth it.
first question on the project too, whats the best way to remove tar? the whole interior has a layer of it that was put down for sound deadening.
kerosen and a putty knife?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,971
Likes: 9
From: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
after sitting back and just looking over these pictures, ive gotten to the point of "what the hell have i gotten my self into"
ive got alot of work and a long way to go, but in the end it will be worth it.
first question on the project too, whats the best way to remove tar? the whole interior has a layer of it that was put down for sound deadening.
kerosen and a putty knife?
ive got alot of work and a long way to go, but in the end it will be worth it.
first question on the project too, whats the best way to remove tar? the whole interior has a layer of it that was put down for sound deadening.
kerosen and a putty knife?
I think that will create even more of a mess. When i did my interior I left the tar (I scraped up some of the big blobs) and put down a sound/ heat shield pad (I forget the name of it but if it ever stops raining here I'll go out to the garage and check some that I had left over). Anyway, I put down this pad with spray on carpet adheasive then put the carpet over it.
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I think that will create even more of a mess. When i did my interior I left the tar (I scraped up some of the big blobs) and put down a sound/ heat shield pad (I forget the name of it but if it ever stops raining here I'll go out to the garage and check some that I had left over). Anyway, I put down this pad with spray on carpet adheasive then put the carpet over it.
I did it the same way and used stuff called "The Insulator" on my floor & firewall...
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
I used "Reflectix", which you can get at Home Depot (cheap compared to Dynamat, etc.) and is designed for insulating mobile homes. Easy to use and really works well to reject heat. Spray glue (drywall corner bead adhesive) and foil tape are best for installation. You MUST put some kind of insulation in before you re-carpet.
It also looks [from the surface rust] like you are getting water into the interior. You really need to find the leak areas and fix them before you start the interior repair. Otherwise, your work will soon be damaged from new water leakage.
It also looks [from the surface rust] like you are getting water into the interior. You really need to find the leak areas and fix them before you start the interior repair. Otherwise, your work will soon be damaged from new water leakage.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: About 1100 miles from where I call home.
I think that will create even more of a mess. When i did my interior I left the tar (I scraped up some of the big blobs) and put down a sound/ heat shield pad (I forget the name of it but if it ever stops raining here I'll go out to the garage and check some that I had left over). Anyway, I put down this pad with spray on carpet adheasive then put the carpet over it.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
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From: Taylor Michigan
This is all caused by water leaking into the car and the carpeting holding the moisture. The more junk you place under the carpets the longer it takes to dry. Those seat bolts are bolted into plates rivited to the floor. You can cut the rivits out from under the car and renew the plates. But you must fix all the leaks or go through this again.
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From: Poconos PA
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So I guess you won't be going to cruise in 8 in a couple of weeks
I hope you can get it the way you want it, It is going to take a lot of time and money. But it will be a real classic when its done
I hope you can get it the way you want it, It is going to take a lot of time and money. But it will be a real classic when its done
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
Go to the auto parts store and buy yourself a couple of cans of "P B Blaster" rust/corrosion solvent. It is great stuff and YOU NEED IT! When you want to loosen more bolts/screws, just shoot some on the bolt/nut (making sure it gets to the threads where the bolt/nut join) and leave it for a few HOURS (not minutes). It takes some time for the stuff to seep down in the threads and break the crud loose. It is MUCH better than breaking or stripping bolts all the time. For the bolts you broke for the seat belts, you will have to drill out the center and use an E-Z Out (after PB Blaster) to get the shank out. We're all with you in this.... [been there....done that]