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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 08:35 AM
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Default Courtesy Lights

My courtesy lights went out. They no longer work when either door is opened, nor can I turn them on manually. Are they in series or parallel for a '69? Is it likely a bulb or something more series?

Thanks, Adam
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 08:39 AM
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replace the bulbs. then play with the pins on the doors. my 79 driver door is a summatime switch. some of the time it works and some of the time it doesn't
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 08:42 AM
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Fuse? A bad lamp should not cause complete failure.
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 08:56 AM
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I had the door jams working before and even replaced one of them. The fuses looked fine. One of you says it could be bulbs and the other says it shouldn't be. Hmmm.
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 09:02 AM
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Well...I had to replace the headlamp switch in my 71 to get the courtesy lamps to work. They actually derive power from the headlight switch, and the switch was bad. If you have power anywhere along the circuit, then the swich is not the problem, though.
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 09:06 AM
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Play around with the door jam switches. When I got my vette only the drivers courtesy light came on. I jiggled the pass side light bulb and then it came on. Pass door jam switch didn't work untill I twisted it slightly so now that side works as well. The dome light behind the seats didn't come on so I pulled the lens cover off figuring the bulb was blown and when I twisted it, it also came on. So now all int. lights come on when either door is opened. Remember these are old and sometimes corroded switches and just need a little coaxing.
Good luck.
Glenn
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Old Apr 18, 2007 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by GD70
Play around with the door jam switches. When I got my vette only the drivers courtesy light came on. I jiggled the pass side light bulb and then it came on. Pass door jam switch didn't work untill I twisted it slightly so now that side works as well. The dome light behind the seats didn't come on so I pulled the lens cover off figuring the bulb was blown and when I twisted it, it also came on. So now all int. lights come on when either door is opened. Remember these are old and sometimes corroded switches and just need a little coaxing.
Good luck.
Glenn
Okay--I'll try jiggling.
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 09:42 PM
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on my 79 there is a 30 sec. delay for courtesy lights shuting off after you shut the door. it is a orange box mounted to firewall behind glove box, not sure if 69 had it but they go bad, also jam switches
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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'69s don't have the delay circuitry. No glove box either.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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It's funny; it was a fuse, but the correct 25A one kept blowing. I have a 30A fuse in there and it works perfectly... My courtesy lights, clock, middle radio, and DC outlet all work perfectly now. The horn buzzer no longer works when the door is open. It was annoying, but I kind of miss it.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 02:39 PM
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Careful using the wrong amp fuse. My '71 uses a 20A for the Clock,Courtesy Lamps, Lighter. Feel the wires that go to the door switches and make sure they are not getting hot. My fuse blew unexpectedly, and it ended up being a bad ground on the door pillar for the switch on the driver side. It may be trying to tell you something. Just a thought.

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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Young69Owner
It's funny; it was a fuse, but the correct 25A one kept blowing. I have a 30A fuse in there and it works perfectly... My courtesy lights, clock, middle radio, and DC outlet all work perfectly now. The horn buzzer no longer works when the door is open. It was annoying, but I kind of miss it.
Funny until I read this post I forgot that my car even had a buzzer…it worked when I got the car but one day quit and I never even cared to fix it…I agree it was very annoying…and I don’t think I’m going to fix it.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by xccter
Careful using the wrong amp fuse. My '71 uses a 20A for the Clock,Courtesy Lamps, Lighter. Feel the wires that go to the door switches and make sure they are not getting hot. My fuse blew unexpectedly, and it ended up being a bad ground on the door pillar for the switch on the driver side. It may be trying to tell you something. Just a thought.

I appreciate it. I'll give it a feel. I think you are right; they should get hot if something is wrong. Thanks again.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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CTSY circuit only has 3 or 4 light bulbs and a timer and buzzer on it unless you have something plugged into the lighter. No way it should blow a 20 amp breaker unless something is wrong. Better to find it than have a fire
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Scottys78
Funny until I read this post I forgot that my car even had a buzzer…it worked when I got the car but one day quit and I never even cared to fix it…I agree it was very annoying…and I don’t think I’m going to fix it.
It's funny once I've had something working and now it doesn't work...even if it was the most annoying feature on the car...but there are some close second placers...
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
CTSY circuit only has 3 or 4 light bulbs and a timer and buzzer on it unless you have something plugged into the lighter. No way it should blow a 20 amp breaker unless something is wrong. Better to find it than have a fire
Putting a bigger fuse in because the correct one keeps blowing is unprofessional and dangerous. Remember, you have 38 year old wiring...

One flash and you're ash!
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 03:09 PM
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Yes--you guys are right...but it's just a 5A difference...
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Young69Owner
Yes--you guys are right...but it's just a 5A difference...
IMHO, it would be closer to 10A - it shouldn't be pulling 24.99A anyway, let alone more than 25A.

Halon's not bad. Dry chemical is better but way messier
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 03:30 PM
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the circuit was fused at 25 amps and that should have been 125% max rated load. That means that the circuit should have no more than 20 amps with everything on. I would stick an amp meter in the fuse line and start unplugging stuff until I found where the extra current is going. Generally speaking, anything that is supposed to buzz or a timer is suspect, light bulbs usually don't cause a short like that.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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Switch back to A slo Blo 25 Amp And see if it still shorts if not use the slo blo if it pops look for a wire starting to rust near A connection.
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