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Your local Chevrolet garage can hook you up, but the parts man needs to be able to read the Speed catalog....forget the checkbook, take all the cash out of the mattress.....
Here are a few sources for Aluminum blocks: GM performance parts ZL1, Brodix, Merlin and Donovan. I have a GM ZL1 and a Brodix. The Brodix is substantially stronger than the ZL1.
not looking for a certain brand, just a good block. I want to save some weight with the aluminum. How much weight is actually saved with an Alum block?
Brodix are some impressive pieces for sure. They're the block of choice for most sportsman classes. They run around 6 grand. I won't have a whole lot more than that in mine and it's a CNC Bowtie model. Dart's coming out with a cast one as well as a billet CNC block. There's a chunk of change! They save you about 100lbs, depending on bore. Unless you're after every .01 second and/or handling, they're not really very economical.
From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Originally Posted by L88Plus
Brodix are some impressive pieces for sure. They're the block of choice for most sportsman classes. They run around 6 grand. I won't have a whole lot more than that in mine and it's a CNC Bowtie model. Dart's coming out with a cast one as well as a billet CNC block. There's a chunk of change! They save you about 100lbs, depending on bore. Unless you're after every .01 second and/or handling, they're not really very economical.
I dunno, kick a rod one time and the aluminum block pays for its self.
12370850 ZL1 Aluminum Big Block
The Chevrolet ZL1 Aluminum Big Block is back and better than ever. This block was first introduced in the 1969 Corvette and Camaro. It was one of the rarest production engines ever built. Now the improved version is available. This block is based on the original tooling. The new casting is made from 356-T6M aluminum alloy and has a 4.118" cast iron liner that can be bored to 4.300". The bottom end has also been improved with new four-bolt splayed steel main caps, with dowel pins to locate and hold the caps in place. This block includes screw-in freeze plugs with o-ring seals, and a two-piece rear seal. The new block has a provision for both dry sump or regular oil pump systems and mechanical fuel pump. All GM performance cylinder heads will fit this block and it only weighs 110 lbs. The maximum stroke is 4.375".
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by 73, Dark Blue 454
Here's a bit of info on the ZL-1 block:
12370850 ZL1 Aluminum Big Block
The Chevrolet ZL1 Aluminum Big Block is back and better than ever. This block was first introduced in the 1969 Corvette and Camaro. It was one of the rarest production engines ever built. Now the improved version is available. This block is based on the original tooling. The new casting is made from 356-T6M aluminum alloy and has a 4.118" cast iron liner that can be bored to 4.300". The bottom end has also been improved with new four-bolt splayed steel main caps, with dowel pins to locate and hold the caps in place. This block includes screw-in freeze plugs with o-ring seals, and a two-piece rear seal. The new block has a provision for both dry sump or regular oil pump systems and mechanical fuel pump. All GM performance cylinder heads will fit this block and it only weighs 110 lbs. The maximum stroke is 4.375".
That would be a 160lb weight savings over by Mark IV block which weighed in at 270lb for the block & caps.
My new engine weights 471lbs (without water pump, starter, alternator, flexplate. Including carb, distributor). And my old iron headed 396 was around 710lbs
So what you are saying is the money that you will spend on these blocks is not worth the weight I will save? That is my main reason for wanting one. Definitely don't want to buy one and it not be worth the xtra cash
So what you are saying is the money that you will spend on these blocks is not worth the weight I will save? That is my main reason for wanting one. Definitely don't want to buy one and it not be worth the xtra cash
-Shark Mann
when you have done everything else you can do to your car/motor it`s a nice upgrade...if you are referring to the above post about "kicking out a rod"..unlike a steel block an aluminum block can be fixed....
...redvetracr
I'm confused. If you are not racing this car for profit, how would you ever recoup any "savings" from having an aluminum block rather than an iron one?
I'm confused. If you are not racing this car for profit, how would you ever recoup any "savings" from having an aluminum block rather than an iron one?
This is true. I was told that BB weigh a lot and to go with a SB, thats all. Thinking I could save some weight this way. Good point though. I would just like to dust the occasional RICER that revs the engine at me.
This is true. I was told that BB weigh a lot and to go with a SB, thats all. Thinking I could save some weight this way. Good point though. I would just like to dust the occasional RICER that revs the engine at me.
You can buy a 500 HP Forged 383 turn key for what that block costs.
You can buy a 500 HP Forged 383 turn key for what that block costs.
Do the small block 350 with a 383 stroker kit, and some good aluminum heads. 400 to 500 HP is doable. And you can change the plugs without hiring an 8-year-old to do them for you.
Do the small block 350 with a 383 stroker kit, and some good aluminum heads. 400 to 500 HP is doable. And you can change the plugs without hiring an 8-year-old to do them for you.
Yeah, and if the ricer still beats you throw a 150 HP NOS shot on it!