The prices seem pretty low for those...........
Need help evaluating prospective C3s
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 22
From: Boise Idaho
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '15, '17
Need help evaluating prospective C3s
Greetings!
I am looking at a couple cars on eBay; if I post the links, or item numbers, could someone knowledgeable give me their impressions? Maybe something wrong might stand out? Both cars are in the $17-20k range. One a 68 the other a 69 and both verts.
Thanks!
I am looking at a couple cars on eBay; if I post the links, or item numbers, could someone knowledgeable give me their impressions? Maybe something wrong might stand out? Both cars are in the $17-20k range. One a 68 the other a 69 and both verts.
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 22
From: Boise Idaho
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '15, '17
Item number: 140129896779
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/S-MAT...QQcmdZViewItem
Item number: 280125677212
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-...QQcmdZViewItem
I am just looking for a decent driver without any huge problems like serious rust ec.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/S-MAT...QQcmdZViewItem
Item number: 280125677212
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-...QQcmdZViewItem
I am just looking for a decent driver without any huge problems like serious rust ec.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Personally, the '68 is the better buy. She's original and the numbers match. The steering wheel is plastic and not wood as stated in the listing. I'd say the seller knows what he/she has. Notice the white one in the garage?
The '69 is listed with a dealer, replacement engine, and has aftermarket side pipes on it.
Good reading here. Worth the price of a copy.
Good luck.
The '69 is listed with a dealer, replacement engine, and has aftermarket side pipes on it.
Good reading here. Worth the price of a copy.
Good luck.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Jun 22, 2007 at 02:00 PM.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 457
Likes: 2
From: Tucson Arizona
The '68, I agree appears to be the better buy, it is going to need some interior work, though. Be wary of the rust situation, though. Look at the hood lock pin bracket, and the rust on the brake booster. Thats just what you can see, someone needs to crawl under that thing and really get an idea of the extent of the rust.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 54,007
Likes: 6,215
From: About 1100 miles from where I call home.
I agree that the '68 appears to be the better of the 2. Of course, that assumes you like Green. '69 is a NOM. Not sure where you got your estimations, as both are bidding to mid $14s but neither has met reserve... do you know what the reserves are?
Another thing... you were concerned about rust, but there's nothing in the pics or anything we can warn you about that will protect you from frame rust. You have to see it yourself for that.
Buying after the auction with a personal inspection is the only way to go.
Another thing... you were concerned about rust, but there's nothing in the pics or anything we can warn you about that will protect you from frame rust. You have to see it yourself for that.
Buying after the auction with a personal inspection is the only way to go.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 22
From: Boise Idaho
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '15, '17
I was thinking the same as you guys-- the '68 being the better value. But damn the '69 looks good in Gold and Black with the pipes and it's close to $2k to put the pipes on!
I have contacted both parties and I believe either car could be had for under $20k. If I made a deal it would have to be with a statement that the car had no real rust or I would pay the $100 for an independant to come and see the car on a rack.
Buying a covertible really stretches my budget so if the car needed a lot of work I would not be too happy. Maybe I'm better off with a less expensive T-top car and having some extra to spend doing this and that to it.
I may need assitance with other possible cars....
Thanks!
I have contacted both parties and I believe either car could be had for under $20k. If I made a deal it would have to be with a statement that the car had no real rust or I would pay the $100 for an independant to come and see the car on a rack.
Buying a covertible really stretches my budget so if the car needed a lot of work I would not be too happy. Maybe I'm better off with a less expensive T-top car and having some extra to spend doing this and that to it.
I may need assitance with other possible cars....
Thanks!
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
Likes: 5
From: Salisbury Maryland
Comparing the two, I think the 68 is the better buy here. Although, watching EBay this week, the number of 68-71 Vette's jumped from about 61 to over 100. Ebay offered a $1 listing fee for Saturday and Sunday. Heck, it prompted me!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-...QQcmdZViewItem
For $1, it's worth seeing if there's somebody out there willing to give me what I want for it, right?
There's quite a few that will fit this catagory.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, shop 'til you drop. The market has softened, but that's no reason to jump into anything. Do your homework and don't get stuck!
BTW, mine's ready to roll! Take off the T-tops, pop out the back window, and it's practically a vert!
Good Luck!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-...QQcmdZViewItem
For $1, it's worth seeing if there's somebody out there willing to give me what I want for it, right?
There's quite a few that will fit this catagory.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, shop 'til you drop. The market has softened, but that's no reason to jump into anything. Do your homework and don't get stuck!
BTW, mine's ready to roll! Take off the T-tops, pop out the back window, and it's practically a vert!
Good Luck!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 22
From: Boise Idaho
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '15, '17
Comparing the two, I think the 68 is the better buy here. Although, watching EBay this week, the number of 68-71 Vette's jumped from about 61 to over 100. Ebay offered a $1 listing fee for Saturday and Sunday. Heck, it prompted me!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-...QQcmdZViewItem
For $1, it's worth seeing if there's somebody out there willing to give me what I want for it, right?
There's quite a few that will fit this catagory.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, shop 'til you drop. The market has softened, but that's no reason to jump into anything. Do your homework and don't get stuck!
BTW, mine's ready to roll! Take off the T-tops, pop out the back window, and it's practically a vert!
Good Luck!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-...QQcmdZViewItem
For $1, it's worth seeing if there's somebody out there willing to give me what I want for it, right?
There's quite a few that will fit this catagory.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, shop 'til you drop. The market has softened, but that's no reason to jump into anything. Do your homework and don't get stuck!
BTW, mine's ready to roll! Take off the T-tops, pop out the back window, and it's practically a vert!
Good Luck!
I would assume the prices will start to drop quite a bit by late August/September. But there is not much of a summer here in Oregon so I hate to miss much of it. On the other hand is it worth spending $2,00 more to get a car right now?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
Likes: 5
From: Salisbury Maryland
I thought I'd covered all my bases before I bought. As you can see, I've put another $2500-3000 into it to fix the unseen problems, and issues that arose after only driving it a few miles(i.e. radiator started leaking, brakes failed, gas tank started leaking). I don't mess around, ecspecially with a 40 y/o car, I put in new stuff.
Question is, do you want something that someone has done that legwork on? or Do you want to spend $18k, drive it 400 or 500 miles and have to spend another $2000(or more)?
These cars are coming up on 40 years old. There will be issues. I replaced the rear bearings, driving it home, my wife following...calls me on the cell and says "your brake lights aren't working". The switch was bad. Luckily, only a $6 part from NAPA.
I'm just saying, be prepared. Don't think that you'll spend $15k or whatever, and have a car you'll drive 5000 or more miles without touching it. Unless, it's a $40k frame-off, it ain't gonna happen.
Just my $.02
Speaking from experiance...
However, I love it! If by some alignment of the planets mine happened to sell...I'd buy another one.
I know, sounds foolish don't it!
Question is, do you want something that someone has done that legwork on? or Do you want to spend $18k, drive it 400 or 500 miles and have to spend another $2000(or more)?
These cars are coming up on 40 years old. There will be issues. I replaced the rear bearings, driving it home, my wife following...calls me on the cell and says "your brake lights aren't working". The switch was bad. Luckily, only a $6 part from NAPA.
I'm just saying, be prepared. Don't think that you'll spend $15k or whatever, and have a car you'll drive 5000 or more miles without touching it. Unless, it's a $40k frame-off, it ain't gonna happen.
Just my $.02
Speaking from experiance...
However, I love it! If by some alignment of the planets mine happened to sell...I'd buy another one.
I know, sounds foolish don't it!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 22
From: Boise Idaho
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '15, '17
I thought I'd covered all my bases before I bought. As you can see, I've put another $2500-3000 into it to fix the unseen problems, and issues that arose after only driving it a few miles(i.e. radiator started leaking, brakes failed, gas tank started leaking). I don't mess around, ecspecially with a 40 y/o car, I put in new stuff.
Question is, do you want something that someone has done that legwork on? or Do you want to spend $18k, drive it 400 or 500 miles and have to spend another $2000(or more)?
These cars are coming up on 40 years old. There will be issues. I replaced the rear bearings, driving it home, my wife following...calls me on the cell and says "your brake lights aren't working". The switch was bad. Luckily, only a $6 part from NAPA.
I'm just saying, be prepared. Don't think that you'll spend $15k or whatever, and have a car you'll drive 5000 or more miles without touching it. Unless, it's a $40k frame-off, it ain't gonna happen.
Just my $.02
Speaking from experiance...
However, I love it! If by some alignment of the planets mine happened to sell...I'd buy another one. I know, sounds foolish don't it!
Question is, do you want something that someone has done that legwork on? or Do you want to spend $18k, drive it 400 or 500 miles and have to spend another $2000(or more)?
These cars are coming up on 40 years old. There will be issues. I replaced the rear bearings, driving it home, my wife following...calls me on the cell and says "your brake lights aren't working". The switch was bad. Luckily, only a $6 part from NAPA.
I'm just saying, be prepared. Don't think that you'll spend $15k or whatever, and have a car you'll drive 5000 or more miles without touching it. Unless, it's a $40k frame-off, it ain't gonna happen.
Just my $.02
Speaking from experiance...
However, I love it! If by some alignment of the planets mine happened to sell...I'd buy another one.
I know, sounds foolish don't it!
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
Likes: 17
Really fun to drive...almost bought a 68 vert once...but decided to wait and found the 69 instead...
Good luck with your hunt..
Best to get some "eyes" on it for you....E-Bay can be a bit "tricky"......
Rich
Good luck with your hunt..
Best to get some "eyes" on it for you....E-Bay can be a bit "tricky"......Rich