Hi
I am about to purchase a 72 Vette and seller claims to be matching numbers.
HOW DO I CONFIRM MATCHING NUMBERS on a 72 Corvette?

ALSO - It is a younger seller and he claims it is in his Uncle's name.(The Title)

His uncle is supposed to hbe there and the check is gonna be made out to him, so everything seems fine.

REALLY interested in the VIN # and STAMP PAD COMPARISON???
Does it MATCH THE VIN # on the stamp pad?
1Z37K2S519126
18422578

Can you do a car fax?

 

No to the CarFax ...

1Z37K2S519126 indicates a 1972 coupe, 350/200hp engine, serial #19,126 made approx late April 1972.

18422578 does not match anything here (there should be a letter in there somewhere). I assume that is one of the numbers on the front passenger side engine pad ??? Yours would read "12S519126" to be matching

 

The number on the engine pad should have 519126 if it's "numbers matching". Note, there will be other numbers on it too, but the important one is the last 6 digits of the VIN.

 

THANKS- THATS What I needed to know.
I will be driving out to pick it up in an hour or so, have a bank check all drawn up and minor things like chrome condition are one thing- they can be restored.
If the engine blcok does not match I am out.
SO BASICALLY I need to see a combo of numbers with the 519126 on it!
GOOD TO KNOW!
Some images...

 

[QUOTE=Erics Quick71;1560971892]THANKS- THATS What I needed to know.
I will be driving out to pick it up in an hour or so, have a bank check all drawn up and minor things like chrome condition are one thing- they can be restored.
If the engine blcok does not match I am out.
SO BASICALLY I need to see a combo of numbers with the 519126 on it!
GOOD TO KNOW!
Some images...

If the price is right and it's in good shape, don't let the non-numbers matching thing chase you away. Looks like the wiper door needs attending to.

 

[QUOTE=Duke94;1560971949]May sound bad, but I havent seen it yet.
I will be leaving at 2PM to do the deal.
$13K, not too bad.

Has a lot of things done to it. Rebuilt 10, 000 miles ago, new tank, new windshield(had cracks)- lots of minor stuff too. A so-so paint job 3 years back.
Interior needs some attention, and the wiper doors you noted.
Supposedly new wiper motor and they work.
same with the lights.
I will know soon enough.
NOW the wiper door will not discouorage me a bit.



I am not a fan of the luggage rack, but am sure they have plugs for it or something.

 

Do a rust inspection before handing over the $ too.

Also double check the title to the VIN on the car. If you are concerned I'd check the Uncle's name on his driver's license to the title as well.

This must be the recent Ebay car.

Let us know how it turns out!

 

Yep,
eBay is awesome.
Thats how I found my last one, had fun driving it and learing on it(repairs and such)
BUT Since it was an original White car with red interior(changed to Black/Black)
I decided to part with it.

As far as the rust goes.
HOW can I do a check on it.
I always hear people say- Check the birdcage.
Is there a simple way? Anyone have pictures of what a bad birdcage looks like?
The frame should be simple.
It hs new motor mounts when the engine was replaced.
**** you guys are more than helpful on this page=- Here is the description- Anything else I should try and ask???
1972 Corvette

#'s Match-Rebuilt Engine / A/C

EXCLUSIVE AND RARE BRYAR BLUE

EXTERIOR

W/ MATCHING BRYAR BLUE LEATHER

INTERIOR



Year: 1972

Miles: 83901

Engine: 8-Cyl

Doors: 2doors

Interior: Bryar Blue

VIN #: 1Z37K2S519126

Transmission: Automatic

Title: Clear

Exterior: Blue

The Gear Shift Reads: "Size350"

The Number On The Engine Reads: 18422578

The Trim Plate On The Door Panel Reads "Chevrolet 118 Trim 412 979 Paint"



This is an original NUMBERS MATCHING 1972 Corvette with 83,901 Original Miles and that has had an extensive mechanical restoration. It came loaded with air conditioning, power steering, automatic transmission, power brakes, tilt-telescopic steering column, the standard removable rear window and t-tops. Additionally everything works (except for the clock and the radio which I think just may need speakers)

Exterior

The color is the sharp looking Bryar Blue and the body is straight appearing to have never been in any kind of serious accident. When you reach your hands under the fenders you can feel all of the original bonding strips. The paint and the interior match the trim codes on the door jamb. The paint is about three years old and good minus a few bubbles that have developed over the years, but for its age it is a good driver paint job. The frame is straight and solid. The chrome also looks very decent and presentable but it is original, not new and doesn't retain its original luster. As for the weatherstrip it appears to be original as well and all of it looks to be in fair condition and not comming apart anywhere, and it works as well as it ever did, I suppose but it does have slight bit of overspray on it from when the car was painted. The car has also recieved a new windshield in the last few months. The head lights are fully functional as are the wipers. Point blank the exterior condition of the car looks good!!

Interior

The interior looks great as it has no cracks, holes, or conspicuous blemishes within the seats, door panels or dash (minus a separation between the speaker holes in the upper dash pad). The seats and the door panels are new and they look great. A new e-brake handle was installed and it looks great as well. All of the gauges work except for the clock. The rear compartment doors are functional but no longer operate as new, as the lapbelts still work but their retractors no longer retract and if one would desire the shoulder belts to work again they need new tongues. In my estimation the interior looks good for its age, especially considering the fairly new seat covers and door panels.

Mechanics

The car has recieved an extensive mechanical restoration over the last 10 years and most of the receipts are included with the sale of the car. The motor compartment still looks pretty original with the original air cleaner and the car retains its orginal numbers matching the 350 c.i. Motor which was rebuilt within the las 10,000 miles. The motor recieved new components at the time of the rebuild such as new alternator, rebuilt carburetor, a new radiator at the time the motor was rebuilt, there is also rebuilt water pump and rebuilt starter. Shortly before the motor was rebuilt, the transmission was also rebuilt. The brakes have been redone with stainless steel sleeved calipers, the master cylinder replaced, the rotors turned, and had a tune up done too! The car stops well with its new brakes and the car looks great on its stock rally wheels with Goodyear tires. A new gas tank has been installed and new mufflers with new correct square port exhaust tips. The rear suspension has also been rebuilt, including new strut rods, and new leaf springs and bushings. Morover the car recieved new motor mounts and the power steering pump has also been rebuilt. The wiper motor is new as well. The car is equipped with Air Conditioning, and while it is all there and the fan blows, it will require a recharge. The controls work turning the AC on and off, but the little orange indicator next to the wheel does not.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1572913

 

just curious-
where is the car located, and how did you hear of it?

i'm only asking because i am in your neck of the woods.

 

Won it on ebay...

 

Any easy way to check the birdcage withoput stripping his entire car down?
I did win the auction already.
He doesnt mention one way or the other the bircage/rust.

 

I asked about hidden rust and one thing that was mentioned by member sixfooter was removing the kick panels and using a mirror to look up.

Yes you bought it, but if it has non disclosed serious damage I do not believe you are under any obligation to complete the deal.

Just go over the car carefully.

I believe Ebay also has fraud protection in case you later discover serious non disclosed damage, like needed expensive rust repair, as well.

 

You mentioned that the engine was rebuilt - if the block was decked, then the 6 digits on the engine pad may no longer be there.

 

I dont want to say I am a moron or anything, but where and how is this done? From inside the car? or in the wheel wells?
Just wondering- PHOTOS always help.

 

from inside ...
1. remove the sill plates
2. remove the kick panels (driver left foot & passenger right foot)
3. remove the speakers if present
4. look/see (passenger side shown)

 

Use caution when bidding on ebay ASK EVERYTHING. I bought a truck on ebay and when I went to pick it up I noticed that all of the serial numbers and tags were changed. ( appeared to be stolen). I refused to get involved in something illegal and didn't take the truck. The seller gave me a negative and reported me to ebay as a non paying bidder. I contacted ebay and explained what had happened and asked to have that negative removed. They said they can't remove feedback once it has been posted, so don't rely on ebay to help. All they care about is getting their fee. I had all positives until I had dealings with this loser.

 

To many scams on eBay these days, especially on collector cars.

 

Yes you should ask everything up front and get their reply in writing but the auction was already over. I would not count on Ebay but their fraud policy is better than just buying a car with no guarantee what-so-ever as in any private party sale outside of Ebay. Especially if you are buying sight unseen or getting it shipped to you. Plus as I stated he needed to do a carefull inspection before handing over payment. Better to get a negative feed back than to lose $$$

 

This is very descriptive, THANKS.
Do the kick plates give you a good idea of the frame status/bird cage?
Is this a major rust potential area?

Thanks for everyones input.