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12.99 HL Switch dimmer repair.- Part of our 'Vett on a budget series...

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Old 07-25-2007, 04:39 AM
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RunningMan373
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Default 12.99 HL Switch dimmer repair.- Part of our 'Vett on a budget series...

The reason for wanting to change the switch was the dimmer didn't work. Well, that's the wire wound taped res in the front of the switch.
I pulled the old switch today, and on getting home from work took it apart along with the new wells switch.

Here was the problem:



The wells switch is a dead on copy of the GM, however- sans the Vac switch.



It just so happens that the Wells Ceramic front with the Wire wound Res fits the Original GM almost perfectly.





So I swaped the ceramic parts and cleaned up, the copper switch surfaces, spread Electrical grease on the terminals and put it all back together.







The end result is ready to roll, and at 12.99, cheaper then a $60 new switch.

Old 07-25-2007, 08:02 AM
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theandies
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P/N and place of purchace please
Old 07-25-2007, 08:42 AM
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SIXFOOTER
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Nicely done, I like doing these sort of fixes myself.
Old 07-25-2007, 09:46 AM
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sweethence
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Nicely done, I like doing these sort of fixes myself.


I replaced mine earlier with a repop unit from Corvette central, but i kept the original, Dont know how long the repop will last, but i may attempt this myself for a back up


cheers
Old 07-25-2007, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by theandies
P/N and place of purchace please
Autozone


Old 07-27-2007, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373
Autozone


Thanks - I'll be making a trip to Autozone Monday! Good job.
Old 09-27-2007, 08:33 AM
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theandies
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I am heading to my local Autozone today to pickup an SW141. I went to Wells web-site and found that they list this as a replacment headlamp switch for Corvettes (It does say Corvettes without retractable headlight though ).

SW141 Headlight Switch Exc. w/Retractable Headlight Covers
Old 09-27-2007, 08:50 AM
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You'll have to slightly notch the front inside hole to get it to fit the new ceramic piece. ~1mm, each side, can barely see it in the last big top pic, C.
Old 09-28-2007, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373
The reason for wanting to change the switch was the dimmer didn't work. Well, that's the wire wound taped res in the front of the switch.
I pulled the old switch today, and on getting home from work took it apart along with the new wells switch.

Here was the problem:


My dimmer works fine but the last click for the courtesy lights doesn't. I note the little flurgle in the contact arm. I assume that is what triggers the courtesy light switch on the main body of the switch?
Old 09-29-2007, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Overlord
My dimmer works fine but the last click for the courtesy lights doesn't. I note the little flurgle in the contact arm. I assume that is what triggers the courtesy light switch on the main body of the switch?
what happens is the bend on the contact arm is pushed up by a bump on the front plactic barrel of the switch on rotation and makes contact with the top metal housing of the switch, which is grounded. acts like another of the contact switches. It's the far side lug.

Last edited by RunningMan373; 09-29-2007 at 02:59 AM.
Old 09-29-2007, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373
You'll have to slightly notch the front inside hole to get it to fit the new ceramic piece. ~1mm, each side, can barely see it in the last big top pic, C.
This is one of the best budget fixes for our cars. Thanks!
I put mine together last night. I didn't have to notch the cover as you did though. The only thing I see is different between the two switches is the vacuum port (of course) and the internal contact assembly on the new switch didn't have the slot for the vacuum switch lever to go into. No big deal, I used all of my old switch execpt for the dimmer resister. I owe you a beer with the $50 I saved.
Old 09-29-2007, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373



Originally Posted by RunningMan373
what happens is the bend on the contact arm is pushed up by a bump on the front plactic barrel of the switch on rotation and makes contact with the top metal housing of the switch, which is grounded. acts like another of the contact switches. It's the far side lug.
Ah, I'm assuming that white plastic piece which appears to have a raised bar on it is the rotating element. Great, thanks! I may get by just playing with the contact arm and making sure the switch is grounded.
Old 12-24-2007, 05:51 PM
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Has anyone who has replaced their headlight switch, either this way or by replacing the entire assembly, noticed brighter dash lights? I did mine a while back and was disappointed by the lack of brightness.
Old 12-24-2007, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Thinpockets
Has anyone who has replaced their headlight switch, either this way or by replacing the entire assembly, noticed brighter dash lights? I did mine a while back and was disappointed by the lack of brightness.
Same here, I have a 69 with the green face, they are not as bright as I would like.
Old 12-24-2007, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Thinpockets
Has anyone who has replaced their headlight switch, either this way or by replacing the entire assembly, noticed brighter dash lights? I did mine a while back and was disappointed by the lack of brightness.

The bulbs are probably burning dimmer. It happens as they get older. Replace them with new bulbs...higher watt if you can find them, and you should see brighter results.
Old 12-24-2007, 10:53 PM
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John 65
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Originally Posted by Thinpockets
Has anyone who has replaced their headlight switch, either this way or by replacing the entire assembly, noticed brighter dash lights? I did mine a while back and was disappointed by the lack of brightness.
Wish I knew this a month ago. The coil was shot in several spots.I just took mine apart and jumped it with a wire attached to a pair of super fine machine nuts and bolts. They wont dim, only come on and off now when they are in the full bright position as before, but now they do shine brighter.
Old 12-25-2007, 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by John 65
Wish I knew this a month ago. The coil was shot in several spots.I just took mine apart and jumped it with a wire attached to a pair of super fine machine nuts and bolts. They wont dim, only come on and off now when they are in the full bright position as before, but now they do shine brighter.
well, i hear you can remove the H/L switch through the dash pad, easier then dropping the colum like i did, and the switches are easily available at autozone, part numbers above. have fun!

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To 12.99 HL Switch dimmer repair.- Part of our 'Vett on a budget series...

Old 12-25-2007, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
The bulbs are probably burning dimmer. It happens as they get older. Replace them with new bulbs...higher watt if you can find them, and you should see brighter results.
I replaced the headlight switch and EVERY bulb in the car and still not very bright. They couldn't possibly have been that dim when the car was new.
Old 12-25-2007, 03:29 PM
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this is great info, thanks for the update!!!


Merry Christmas

Sully
Old 12-25-2007, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Thinpockets
I replaced the headlight switch and EVERY bulb in the car and still not very bright. They couldn't possibly have been that dim when the car was new.
You probably got a bad connector in the chain somewhere. check the one to the gauge board for one.


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