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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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Default Ugly manifolds

Brand new engine. Cleaned up engine compartment. I ran out of money right now to get a nice set of headers, so for now I'm putting the old manifolds back on. Apparently Bubba had my car before and actually welded the A.I.R. tubes into the manifolds, so removing the tubes and plugging the holes is out of the question. In short, anybody know any way to CHEAPLY clean up my manifolds just to make 'em look a little better. I don't need a permanent fix, just something to make them look good for the time being.
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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Go to a local hardware store and see if you like any of the colors of BBQ grill paint. That stuff usually has a high temp rating, and while it may not last forever it might last long enough to hold you over until you can afford the headers.
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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Eastwood has great high temp paint very good
www.eastwood.com
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 09:43 AM
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Blast them and shoot them with VHT. The aftermarket providers all carry several different products for manifolds. Pick your favorite. They left the engine assembly plant as unpainted castings.

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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 09:52 AM
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Try this link.

http://www.calyxmanifold.com/
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 11:10 AM
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Just save for a bit and by $90 long tubes...

Hows the new engine working out for you? A bit of a kick in the pants compared to stock?
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 11:37 AM
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I'm pretty sure they came welded from the factory in 81. Mine are
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 11:51 AM
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The stuff you want to use is called manifold dressing. Check Ecklers, Corvette America catalogs and you shoul find it.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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Try graphite.


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...phite+manifold
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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If you want cheap and temporary, then rub them good with steel wool, then simple green or other cleaner, and then spray with BBQ grill paint or other hi temp silver or black paint. If you decide to keep em, then sndblast in n out and aluminum coat to permanently eliminate rust and discoloration- about $100 .
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 71rdster
I've been using Calyx for years. Great stuff...........
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by yel76low
Just save for a bit and by $90 long tubes...

Hows the new engine working out for you? A bit of a kick in the pants compared to stock?
Haven't fired it up just yet. I'm working on a really tight schedule. Finally got the motor actually in the car and bolted up to the tranny (discovered a broken tranny mount it never ends...) and connected the motor mounts, then it was off to marching band. I'm really hoping to get it ready to fire tomorrow night after I get off work.

But ya, I'm eyeing up a beautiful pair of Tri-Y's from Stan's Headers. From what I've heard, they're well worth the price tag. I think they'll round out my dual exhaust and new motor nicely.

I think I'm just gonna steel wool them and use some high-temp spray on paint for now.

I'll try and post some pictures of the hopefully finished product tomorrow night.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 02:53 AM
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If they are out of the car, just look in the business directory for someone who does sand or media blasting. Shooting two manifolds is easy, if you have the right equipment. It shouldn't cost much, either. As soon as they are shot, put them in plastic bags to keep air and moisture away [as much as possible]. Have whatever high-temp paint you choose should be ready to go when you get home. Wipe them off with chemical cleaner (paint thinner, etc.)....use no water, if at all possible. Then paint 'em up. Follow paint instructions. Good luck.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If they are out of the car, just look in the business directory for someone who does sand or media blasting. Shooting two manifolds is easy, if you have the right equipment. It shouldn't cost much, either. As soon as they are shot, put them in plastic bags to keep air and moisture away [as much as possible]. Have whatever high-temp paint you choose should be ready to go when you get home. Wipe them off with chemical cleaner (paint thinner, etc.)....use no water, if at all possible. Then paint 'em up. Follow paint instructions. Good luck.
My dad's a body man that does repairs for BMW and also restores Corvettes in the same shop. He's got a sand blaster, but it's kind of hard to get him to do anything for me. I don't want to do it myself, because I don't know how to work the equipment. I'll see if I can get him to do it for me.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 04:46 PM
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You can use sand on cast iron manifolds, because the sand won't "eat" the thick cast material very quickly. Small steel shot would be a better media [not as agressive], but sand will work OK on them. It's really pretty easy to do if you have a sealed cabinet to work in. Just put the manifold in the cabinet, fire up the compressor/air pump, point and shoot. The rust/corrosion will just clean right up and in a couple of minutes you will have a good technique going. Gee, not only can you learn a new skill...you can have a bonding session with good ol' Dad. What a deal! [And you get your manifolds cleaned up.] Don't forget to seal them in airtight baggies when you shoot them. Clean cast iron will start to rust in minutes!
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarcrazy02
My dad's a body man that does repairs for BMW and also restores Corvettes in the same shop. He's got a sand blaster, but it's kind of hard to get him to do anything for me. I don't want to do it myself, because I don't know how to work the equipment. I'll see if I can get him to do it for me.
Sand blasting is actually quite easy. i just learned about two or three weeks ago. the only thing thats hard is having patience with parts that have alot of little spaces in them. hard to get it all spotless.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 07:18 PM
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Are yours casted or tube? My 80 came with tube headers and the A.I.R. tubes were welded. The same for the 81's Ive seen. I just happen to have 2 sets of these sitting in the garage. These are stock factory shorty headers.

Last edited by 3rd_Vette; Sep 8, 2007 at 07:21 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
You can use sand on cast iron manifolds, because the sand won't "eat" the thick cast material very quickly. Small steel shot would be a better media [not as agressive], but sand will work OK on them. It's really pretty easy to do if you have a sealed cabinet to work in. Just put the manifold in the cabinet, fire up the compressor/air pump, point and shoot. The rust/corrosion will just clean right up and in a couple of minutes you will have a good technique going. Gee, not only can you learn a new skill...you can have a bonding session with good ol' Dad. What a deal! [And you get your manifolds cleaned up.] Don't forget to seal them in airtight baggies when you shoot them. Clean cast iron will start to rust in minutes!
A good idea is to put a light coat of WD40 on it before you put it in the baggies. It'll help to prevent the rust. My dad said that they use it as a rust preventative in the big fuel tanks on the Atlas-Centaur Rockets where he works...He figures if it works for the Aerospace industry to prevent rust, it should work to prevent rust in some of the metal jobs that we've been doing...
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 12:18 AM
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Oil on the fresh surface is a good idea...if you are trying to preserve them during storage. But you'll just have to clean them off again when you paint. Just bag them up quick so you can keep moist air away from them until you paint. They shouldn't rust [very quickly] if sealed in a plastic bag (heck, use the wife's SpaceBag when she's not looking).
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 71rdster
I've used this stuff and its' really good. It seems like it's graphite powder in a past form. The graphite has a very near cast iron look to it and when you run the engine, it still looks the same. I wouldn't be surprised if this stuff has been sold for over 100 years. I think it was originally used on cast iron wood/coal burning stoves in the 1800's.
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