Re-skin door panels
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 6
From: New Port Richey FL
Re-skin door panels
How many out there have re-skined their door panels? My search has only returned one person. They say not to remove the old vinyl but it seems to me that would be the whole point. My "panels" are not in too bad of shape, but the armrest have a generous helping of electrical tape. I'd like to redo mine myself, and less than 70 bucks a side sounds reasonable. I would think that removing the old vinyl would make for a nicer finished product. Any thoughts?? Thanks!
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 613
Likes: 2
From: West Central Florida
Go ahead and do it! Take your plastic off gently trying not to rip the foam, then fill in the holes in the foam with closed cell foam and sand it down flat with 80 grit paper on a board. once it looks good and flat you can cover it now or go over it with a thin sheet of closed cell foam to even up the surface, scuff the foam and glue your new covering starting from the middle and working out. heres some examples.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I've done it...but I wouldn't do it again. You should know that taking the "old" skin off would be a terrible mistake. You will lose all of the detail in the shape of the door surface. Also, one of the critical steps in doing a door panel re-skin is getting the "old" surface in decent condition. You do that by removing the electrical tape {why the heck didn't it have duct tape?!}, using some spray-type foam insulation to fill any voids and cracks, then trimming the foam so that is matches the door surface. That prepares the panel for accepting the new skin, which simply takes on the shape that is underneath it. It is an arduous task and a real test of patience. Ready-made ABS panels are a good deal, comparitively, unless you don't value your labor very highly. Had I known the difficulty, I wouldn't have done it either.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Beautiful work on the re-skinned parts you show in your post. But, you have to agree that such work is not for the "average" hobbyist. Most folks just aren't as "****" as some of us....[no matter how tough it is, we just don't quit!]. I would be interested to know your "take" on doing the more difficult [undulating surface with inner and outer curves, etc.] door panels.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 6
From: New Port Richey FL
Where do I get "closed cell foam" spray and sheets? Is this something I can get at the fabric store or is it door panel specific and I need to find a vendor. I was looking at Willcox for the skins.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Wilcox [and other aftermarket places] will likely sell the foam stuff to prep the door panels. The major issues are: prepping the existing door to "finish" the damaged areas; cleaning the door surface so the adhesive will stick; using a good [recommended by vendor] contact adhesive that won't release the new skin when in direct sunlight; orienting the new skin properly and deciding how you want to lay it down [you have to work from a starting point outward....no laying it down and rubbing out the air bubbles--it's not that easy!]. Be sure to remove all of the staples on the back side, but remember how that was done and duplicate it with the new skin. With contact cement, once you set it in place....that's where it stays. You get ONE SHOT. One false move and it's "wrinkle" time.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
I had considered reskin but decided against it. Seems like too much work and too much risk of F'in up. I will probably just pay the insane price for repo's...
I really do like the reskin examples above though...Makes me think about leather wrapping my center console arm rest.
I really do like the reskin examples above though...Makes me think about leather wrapping my center console arm rest.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
A few Corvette parts supply places (like Wilcox) still sell the door "skins" in the interior section with complete door panels. You have to read closely, as it is not called out very well. Fewer places still sell these, as not many folks want to re-skin, now that whole door panels are less costly. The skins are about 70 bucks, or so. A "basic" door panel is less than $200. When the door panels were $300-400 apiece, the skin was an attractive deal. With lower prices, and the grief of re-skinning a panel is considered, it no longer is IMO.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
A few Corvette parts supply places (like Wilcox) still sell the door "skins" in the interior section with complete door panels. You have to read closely, as it is not called out very well. Fewer places still sell these, as not many folks want to re-skin, now that whole door panels are less costly. The skins are about 70 bucks, or so. A "basic" door panel is less than $200. When the door panels were $300-400 apiece, the skin was an attractive deal. With lower prices, and the grief of re-skinning a panel is considered, it no longer is IMO.
Thanks, this is something I never heard of.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 299
From: Midlothian VA
I reskined my in the late 80's. They still look great to this day.
Not the easiest job as I remember though.
First,
DON'T remove the existing skin!!!
Do, remove all your hardware.
I removed all the hardware except for the top strip that holds the glass felt. I was able to simply trim the skin within an 1/8th inch overhang in that area and then tucked it under the chrome strip.
I mounted the skin using contact cement. If you go this route remember you only get one shot at setting it in place.
I practiced for a while w/o the cement on the skin and found the only way to achieve a good alignment was to push the skin completely inside out so the first contact point was the center of the area just under the arm rest. If you can place that small area correctly then you only need to work from the center out pushing the skin onto the rest of the panel.
I didn't have a bunch of missing foam on my panel just lots of cracks I wanted to coverup. If you have missing foam/holes then fill them and get the area flush with the adjcent skin.
Not the easiest job as I remember though.
First,
DON'T remove the existing skin!!!
Do, remove all your hardware.
I removed all the hardware except for the top strip that holds the glass felt. I was able to simply trim the skin within an 1/8th inch overhang in that area and then tucked it under the chrome strip.
I mounted the skin using contact cement. If you go this route remember you only get one shot at setting it in place.
I practiced for a while w/o the cement on the skin and found the only way to achieve a good alignment was to push the skin completely inside out so the first contact point was the center of the area just under the arm rest. If you can place that small area correctly then you only need to work from the center out pushing the skin onto the rest of the panel.
I didn't have a bunch of missing foam on my panel just lots of cracks I wanted to coverup. If you have missing foam/holes then fill them and get the area flush with the adjcent skin.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 473
Likes: 6
From: New Port Richey FL
Thanks Bill.... give me a call and if your not doing anything this weekend, come on up. I've got my car all put back together, and I'm just looking at interior now. I'd like to get a tune up done sometime as well and I still owe you a drive in the convertible. Talk to you soon!
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 613
Likes: 2
From: West Central Florida
Beautiful work on the re-skinned parts you show in your post. But, you have to agree that such work is not for the "average" hobbyist. Most folks just aren't as "****" as some of us....[no matter how tough it is, we just don't quit!]. I would be interested to know your "take" on doing the more difficult [undulating surface with inner and outer curves, etc.] door panels.Green73, spray foam can be found at any home supply store. BUT, closed cell foam in sheets is different. Try Ebay for for the best prices on small quantities.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Davenport FL
I would think the best logic for a re-skin would be when you want your interior to be better than new original. Real leather and wood instead of vinyl and plastic is my thought. I am surprised no one offers replacement high end interior packages off the shelf yet, only OEM reproductions. (Go to the Hot Rod Power Tour, look at those interiors, and then jump back into your car. How does it compare?)
I can't wait to actually see that new custom leather interior for the 2008, not just leather seats, but doors, dash, everything. That finally makes the inside as nice as the outside and that is what the driver sees day in and day out. IMHO, of course.
www.mycarframes.com
I can't wait to actually see that new custom leather interior for the 2008, not just leather seats, but doors, dash, everything. That finally makes the inside as nice as the outside and that is what the driver sees day in and day out. IMHO, of course.
www.mycarframes.com
