That I'm not sure about. He's had the car almost 3 years and had to do some engine work on it. Don't know if he had to replace the water pump.
Last months Corvette Fever featured a 70 Blue vert. If you have a copy see if the engine pics have the plugged bypass. I'm at work so I'll look tonight.

 

The last small block I recall seeing the bypass being used was midyears with aluminum manifolds.

 

Your book has the right number. I just called it a BR270 coil because it has the raised letters BR 270 on the side of the coil. All the 68-72 small blocks with standard ignition used this coil.
Bryan

 

Very observant Bullshark, the water pump in the pic that GD70 posted is a replacement, it was leaking earlier this year. I have the original pump that will be rebuilt and replaced this winter when the engine comes out. I have also replaced the master cylinder the original will be rebuilt and replaced at that time as well.

Dave

 

Warren,
I hope you catch this as it seems your PM inbox is full. I was hoping to get some contact info. from you about this car. Please pass it along. It sounds interesting.
Thanks,
Greg

 

The owner of the War Bonnet yellow LT-1 documented coupe is Greg.

Contact him at gyoung@pcwa.net

 

thanks!

 

Bullshark,that is a great looking LT-1...Good luck with the sale..

 

1st. of all I completly disagree with this whole concept of "IF IT AINT GOT PAPERS IS AIN'T REAL", Surely no one really beleives that if St. Louis built a LT-1 or a ZR-1 or a LS-6 and years later the original invoice is long gone and the tank sticker is dust that that car now becomes a clone!!! , That is obsurd. I think there are many owners and sellers of these cars that are not crooks. I suggest that you do your home work and strike the best deal you can. Then buy what you want and don't worry about what others think. There are just too many things that are unique to a LT-1 to make it cost effective to fake one 100% in order to cheat a buyer.

I would say this , if you run into someone one day that want's to question your car's heritage, you do not have to prove it is a real LT-1 , they have the burden of proving it is not.

If selling the car , then the tabels are turned. The seller does have a responsibility then to represent all known facts up front so buyer can make best informed judgement.

buy the way I love mine , I wanted it for 22 years and I finally got it 20 months ago.

1971 # 2689

 

Here are some of the things I know to look for on a LT-1

1. Hood w/ dcals and no glassed over 427/454 emblem holes
2. Emmision label under hood (1970 CT),(71 AX),(72 LP)
3. No over flow tank for radiator / no holes to mount one
4. Manual Transmission, can be a M20 STD. or M21 / M22 optional
for 71 M20 had 3:55 STD. / 3:36 Economy / 3:70 Performance
not sure on 70 and 72. But a 71 base car 270HP only had 3:08 or 3:36 available.
5. Manual trans Cross members are welded not bolted
6. 70 /71 all had T.I. ignitions look for amplifer box on left front fender well. It T.I removed there should be 3 holes 1 high and 2 low
7. Aluminum winters manifold
8. all LT-1's had A.I.R base cars did not, if A.I.R. removed the holes in manifold should be plugged.
9. No A/C 70 and 71 cars
10. 6,500 red line
11. Holley Carb.
12. Heavy duty caps w/ bolts on inboard universal joints at rear end.
13. Single fuel line w/o a return line. Also look to see that return line was not removed. on a unrestored frame there will be a faint sign of where the reurn line had been, Also look for twin line clamps.
14. Fuel tank will not have a nipple on the passanger side wall where a return line would have attached.
15. No higher a gear ration than 3:36 mentioned earlier
16. LT-1 data plate at shifter 70 370HP 71 330HP no HP listed on 72
17. Take vale covers off look for O on lower portion of rocker arms.
18. Aluminum valve covers (original uses rubber oil plug) replacemets will be twist in lock.
19. Hardest to check but the hardest to change and therefore the main thing to look for is to remove the oil pan and look for 4 bolf main and rods with letter O beside the 3/8th. nut on rod cap.

If you find a car that has all of the above that was not originally on the car. then the owner spent several thousands of dollars to do that.

Block cast dates should be pretty close to motor assemble date.

My block was cast 8-14-70 and motor motor assembled 8-19

Note no cars were assembled in October due to strike so assembly dates can be several weeks out , my car was assembled 1st day of Dec. 1970

 

70 LT-1's used twist in lock oil caps

 

Sorry for the incorrect ifo given. Thanks for the correction.

David

 

David,
That is a great listing (most complete I've seen so far). If I haven't overstayed my welcome on this board, there are a few I'd be interested in seeing pictures of:

The single fuel line clamps
The fuel tank difference
Welded cross member
TI amp in proper location

There sure are a lot of minor details to look for. This makes me feel more comfortable buying an undocumented car (in the condition I am looking). As many have said, if looking at high end cars these can all be faked, and at some point the money makes sense to do so. I don't see myself getting into a car of that detail nor would I bring mine to that level.

Greg

 

Greg , Thanks for your reply. I left out 1 feature. All LT-1's had solid lifter cams. You can here them chatter when running. But I would not let some things be a deal breaker. A solid cam could have been replaced with a hyd over the 35 years. Can be reinstalled. CAll me at work if you like and I can explain better. I have no phots of tank , you can not see what I am talking about with it installed. But you can easliy reach your hane up and feel for it.

work # 888-375-7500 ext. 8260

David

 

I keep remembering more things as I read comments from others

1971 had a 42 amp alternator and the cast # was 1100950 , but same one was used on 270HP cars with our A/C

But things like starters , alternators, carb are very likely to have had to be replaced over the 35 years. Don't let these missing items freak you out. As for the stater same one used on any 350 with 4 speed

270 or 330 HP.

David

 

TI amp.

 

Is it under the black plastic cover in the corner?

 

Yes. It is the black plastic cover. It plugs into the ti harness which runs next to the normal electrical harness and vacuum lines and plugs into the ti distributor.

 

No plastic cover......that is the module, which is metal and is painted black,

 

Correct.