When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
We're replacing the rear end in my dad's 80 vette. We got it out last night, how do you remove the shock mount bolts, that hold the rear strut bars that run to the rear end. I've tried turning them, do you have to remove the trailing arm assembly and press them out? Please help. Thanks.
They will not turn. Their is a special tool that screws on the threads and bottoms out so you can hammer them off. They can be rusted in real tight. Without the tool you will be buying new ones.
They will not turn. Their is a special tool that screws on the threads and bottoms out so you can hammer them off. They can be rusted in real tight. Without the tool you will be buying new ones.
You definitely need something to protect the threads - I used a Shock Mount Removal Tool from Volunteer Vette, though others here have used different means. Mine was rusted up pretty solid. I soaked them in Liquid Wrench for a week, then used a propane torch to heat them up while I hammered away. Took a lot of time and , but they finally came out.
They will not turn. Their is a special tool that screws on the threads and bottoms out so you can hammer them off. They can be rusted in real tight. Without the tool you will be buying new ones.
Go to the Home Depot and buy a metal end cap that is used for plumbing (black pipe I believe). Cost you less than a buck and lets you pound on the threads to free the shock mount
I had the same problem and this is what advice was given to me. I got 2 of them from work. 3/8 or 1/2 inch pipe caps can't remember which size off hand. One brass and one iron. Worked like a charm. They'll work on both the shock and the camber strut rod side. A little PB Blaster doesn't hurt either. Take your time and you'll get it!!
One side of the shock mount that goes through the bearing assembly fork is flat, as is one side of the fork. This helps the shock mount maintain proper orientation. The bolt rust seizes to the inner strut bushing sleeve and makes it difficult to remove. If you don't have a torch, you might try soaking the area in Kroil, or similar penetrant oil for a few days before hammering on the cap. If that doesn't work, you can heat the strut bushing until it melts and you can get to the inner metal sleeve. Once the inner sleeve gets hot, the bolt will come right out. Makes lotsa smoke, so do outdoors.
3/8 NPT pipe cap. Costs about $0.80. (Yes, I know, the shock mount uses a bolt thread, not a pipe thread. It matches. I don't know why, but it does.)
I had one shock mount completely seized. By using an oxy/acetylene torch to burn out the surviving scraps of rubber and then getting the bushing sleeve red hot, the mount was hammered out and everything was reused.
Use the anti-seize generously...! Everything removed and or replaced with my rear end/susp. rebuild got cleaned shiny and ALOT of anti-seize where needed.
Hey Batman.... I think you were the one who turned me on to the pipe caps. If I haven't already told ya ....Thanks!
Use the anti-seize generously...! Everything removed and or replaced with my rear end/susp. rebuild got cleaned shiny and ALOT of anti-seize where needed.
Hey Batman.... I think you were the one who turned me on to the pipe caps. If I haven't already told ya ....Thanks!
Always glad to help. I picked up that tip from someone here when I was starting on my suspension dissassembly.