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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 09:59 AM
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Default Corvette consistent problems or defects

After reading repeated threads over the years I have decided to start a small project. I'm starting to compile a list of the areas on all Corvettes that are trouble or should be checked before buying. So if you guy's and girls could share your pictures and or stories to help me start my project it would greatly appreciated! The compilation will continue until I build enough information to possibly publish an article or small booklet.It can be anything from rotted frame rails to faulty wiper blades, any problems at all. Even the obvious problems to some of you. Please include the year, color, options if available on the vehicle that your trouble refers to.
TIA WB

Could use a cool title for the article as well!

Last edited by Don Rickles; Oct 26, 2007 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 10:35 AM
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From: St. Charles Mo
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Rear diff stub axles wear over time......even to the point that the retainer C-clip falls off and could cause trouble on the way down. I don't have any pictures handy but I bet gtr1999 does.

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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Bullshark
Rear diff stub axles wear over time......even to the point that the retainer C-clip falls off and could cause trouble on the way down. I don't have any pictures handy but I bet gtr1999 does.

Bullshark
Thanks Bullshark,
Perfect, it will be added to my list!
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 10:46 AM
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Looks like I may have a title from the C1/C2 guy's

The Cronic Corvette
What do you think?
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 10:46 AM
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I don't know if it's common; but on my 75 while I was unbolting the rear spring one of the cast iron ears on the diff cover where the bolt goes into broke off. The number four body mount was rusted away, both on the body and the frame. The trailing arm pivit bolts had to be cut off.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Hauq`
I don't know if it's common; but on my 75 while I was unbolting the rear spring one of the cast iron ears on the diff cover where the bolt goes into broke off. The number four body mount was rusted away, both on the body and the frame. The trailing arm pivit bolts had to be cut off.
Thank you, perhaps someone else could take the differential cover problem a little further?
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 10:51 AM
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You should consider writing in your book a chapter about 'how the 70's killed the american muscle car' then you go into a sub-chapter saying why and that will drive you streight into one of the main C3 problems: weight, specially in later models...Weight will worsen every single problem in a car, specially when this car was designed to weight one third less of what actually ended weighting: insufficient braking capacity, insufficiend road holding, insufficient rear holding and insufficient performance. All of these insufficiencies have a common denominator which is, as said above, over weight.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 10:51 AM
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From: St. Charles Mo
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Two more.....

!) On earlier C3 models with a vacuum reservoir tank, they can develop fatigue cracks from years of flexing.....leading to abnormal windshield wiper door operation and vacuum leak related problems.

2) Those vacuum relays that control headlight and wiper door operation have a dog bone lip seal in them that always goes bad....just a matter of time.


I will pontificate on additional areas.....

Bullshark
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 10:56 AM
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I'll start in on rust issues:
The lower windshield frames get cancered out due to the way the thing is put together. The fiberglass bonding piece that the fenders bond to are not sealed to the frame. They are simply riveted to the WS frame corner.
This is the result

Here are the riveted areas, the red line indicates a leak candidate

The fiberglass piece should have been sealed with Urethane caulk to the metal piece of the WS frame corner. With just the rivets, it traps and holds water allowing the corner to rust thru. The water then runs down inside the door pillar and on top of the #2 mounts and this is what you get




The repair requires the cutting out and fabbing new pockets for the #2 mounts, store bought pieces are available. The WS frame repair required fabbing new parts because there were no store bought parts available, but there may be now
The floor I brush wheeled, chemical treated and then treated with POR15 and fiberglass matt
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by panic
You should consider writing in your book a chapter about 'how the 70's killed the american muscle car' then you go into a sub-chapter saying why and that will drive you streight into one of the main C3 problems: weight, specially in later models...Weight will worsen every single problem in a car, specially when this car was designed to weight one third less of what actually ended weighting: insufficient braking capacity, insufficiend road holding, insufficient rear holding and insufficient performance. All of these insufficiencies have a common denominator which is, as said above, over weight.
Panic that's fantastic! It's kinda funny you are allways posting questions on ways to reduce the weight of your car. All this time I thought that your intention was to pick up maybe 1/10th on the clock! Durability is also your goal! Very cool

Last edited by Don Rickles; Oct 23, 2007 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Bullshark
Two more.....

!) On earlier C3 models with a vacuum reservoir tank, they can develop fatigue cracks from years of flexing.....leading to abnormal windshield wiper door operation and vacuum leak related problems.

2) Those vacuum relays that control headlight and wiper door operation have a dog bone lip seal in them that always goes bad....just a matter of time.


I will pontificate on additional areas.....

Bullshark
Thanks again Bullshark!

Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
I'll start in on rust issues:
The lower windshield frames get cancered out due to the way the thing is put together. The fiberglass bonding piece that the fenders bond to are not sealed to the frame. They are simply riveted to the WS frame corner.
This is the result

Here are the riveted areas, the red line indicates a leak candidate

The fiberglass piece should have been sealed with Urethane caulk to the metal piece of the WS frame corner. With just the rivets, it traps and holds water allowing the corner to rust thru. The water then runs down inside the door pillar and on top of the #2 mounts and this is what you get




The repair requires the cutting out and fabbing new pockets for the #2 mounts, store bought pieces are available. The WS frame repair required fabbing new parts because there were no store bought parts available, but there may be now
The floor I brush wheeled, chemical treated and then treated with POR15 and fiberglass matt
Couldn't have asked for anything better! Now that's one rusted out frame area!
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by War Bonnet
....Panic that's fantastic! It's kinda funny you are allways posting questions on ways to reduce the weight ....

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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by panic
Hope that you didn't take my post the wrong way it was meant as a compliment! Sometimes my wording may need a little help?
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:34 AM
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Great project to work on! If I may suggest don't say defects or problems as these cars just need solutions. Your Headline --"Tips On
Buying C3 Corvettes" - other chapters on - Problems*Solutions*PM.
You have two audiences - tech and non-tech so KISS principal should
be used. Here's just a few areas to be addressed--- Battery Cranking
Amps vs Cold Cranking Amps - Windshield window tray solutions -
installing brakes - and many more. Good luck on your project. It's
needed. Peter PS: possibly a vendor could support your project.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by PETKAH
Great project to work on! If I may suggest don't say defects or problems as these cars just need solutions. Your Headline --"Tips On
Buying C3 Corvettes" - other chapters on - Problems*Solutions*PM.
You have two audiences - tech and non-tech so KISS principal should
be used. Here's just a few areas to be addressed--- Battery Cranking
Amps vs Cold Cranking Amps - Windshield window tray solutions -
installing brakes - and many more. Good luck on your project. It's
needed. Peter PS: possibly a vendor could support your project.
I do hear what your saying but everything published that I've read more or less documents the cars only and doesn't compile a list of "the Bad" areas. What I'm looking for is Cronic problems that each era has and list them. Perhaps after I have made up this list I will continue with an article on solutions. However completely seperate It's purpose will be to help anyone intereted in restoring or purchasing, exactly what to look for item by item. Thank you very much for your input and compliment!
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by War Bonnet
Hope that you didn't take my post the wrong way it was meant as a compliment! Sometimes my wording may need a little help?
As i told you i was just joking...

I think this is a great project...
(specially if you'll let me write and sign the chapter about the weight iussue...)
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by panic
As i told you i was just joking...

I think this is a great project...
(specially if you'll let me write and sign the chapter about the weight iussue...)
No problemo, You have the floor on the weight problems

PS: with acknowledgement!!!
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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Leaks of all kinds -- like how much oil and from where?

1) Oil in the engine?
2) Oil out of the engine? (Always check running oil pressure)
3) Transmission rear seal?
4) Gas leak?

Electronics

1) What actually works?
2) Gage lights?
3) Instrument warning lamps?
4) DC Outlet?

Fiberoptics?

- Do the rear ones work?

Control Arm Bushings

-How do they look in the front?

Does the horn work?

-Can it be fixed by grounding it?

Are the tires road worthy or have they been sitting for several years?

Sorry for the long post, but these are just some of the issues I've already had.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Young69Owner
Leaks of all kinds -- like how much oil and from where?

1) Oil in the engine?
2) Oil out of the engine? (Always check running oil pressure)
3) Transmission rear seal?
4) Gas leak?

Electronics

1) What actually works?
2) Gage lights?
3) Instrument warning lamps?
4) DC Outlet?

Fiberoptics?

- Do the rear ones work?

Control Arm Bushings

-How do they look in the front?

Does the horn work?

-Can it be fixed by grounding it?

Are the tires road worthy or have they been sitting for several years?

Sorry for the long post, but these are just some of the issues I've already had.
Perfect! Will be added
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 12:28 PM
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Speaking of horn problems, don't forget the plastic retainer internal to the Tilt/Tele column that deteriorates with age, cracking up and letting the spring short to ground, sounding the horn and running the battery down.

Some more you guys may have run across unique to our vettes.

Gas tank sock filter breaking up and clogging the fuel pick-up / filter.

Maintenance free Emergency brake design!

Early C3 external door handle spring

High speed heater blower motor relay failure.

distributor mechanical tach gears

mechnical clock points wear

upper windshield post rust out causing leaks.

electronic tach boards burn out.

speedometer fiber gear wear

clutch fan failure

hood release lever cable

broken door hinge spring


I think I have dealt with all of these one time or another.


Bullshark


And, I almost forgot one of my favorites......now listen to this panic.......carburetors..... but I guess that's not vette unique.

Last edited by Bullshark; Oct 23, 2007 at 12:39 PM.
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