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Corvette consistent problems or defects

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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 12:43 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by PETKAH
Great project to work on! If I may suggest don't say defects or problems as these cars just need solutions. Your Headline --"Tips On
Buying C3 Corvettes" - other chapters on - Problems*Solutions*PM.
You have two audiences - tech and non-tech so KISS principal should
be used. Here's just a few areas to be addressed--- Battery Cranking
Amps vs Cold Cranking Amps - Windshield window tray solutions -
installing brakes - and many more. Good luck on your project. It's
needed. Peter PS: possibly a vendor could support your project.
PETKAH, After giving your advise a little time to sink in, I have to agree! A negative title such The Cronic Corvette seems to me to perhaps push a perspective owner away. Your "Kiss" principal is a much better approach. A title from magicV8 on the C1/2 suggested "What to expect When Buying a 40 Year Old Car". The positive approach wins!
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 12:45 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Bullshark
Speaking of horn problems, don't forget the plastic retainer internal to the Tilt/Tele column that deteriorates with age, cracking up and letting the spring short to ground, sounding the horn and running the battery down.

Some more you guys may have run across unique to our vettes.

Gas tank sock filter breaking up and clogging the fuel pick-up / filter.

Maintenance free Emergency brake design!

Early C3 external door handle spring

High speed heater blower motor relay failure.

distributor mechanical tach gears

mechnical clock points wear

upper windshield post rust out causing leaks.

electronic tach boards burn out.

speedometer fiber gear wear

clutch fan failure

hood release lever cable

broken door hinge spring


I think I have dealt with all of these one time or another.


Bullshark


And, I almost forgot one of my favorites......now listen to this panic.......carburetors..... but I guess that's not vette unique.
Great help Bullshark, can't wait to hear from Panic!
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 12:48 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by War Bonnet
........... can't wait to hear from Panic!

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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 12:59 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by panic
"And, I almost forgot one of my favorites......now listen to this panic.......carburetors..... but I guess that's not vette unique."

Are the carbs. too heavy
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 01:19 PM
  #25  
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"What to expect when buying a 40 year old Corvette" Well, the first
things you need to buy are a first aid kit and fire extinguisher. When
I first got my '70 Vette about 10 years ago a mechanic told me it was
"raining" under the engine compartment (OK lots of leaks easily fixed).
Most recently the drivers seat is stuck - can't go forward or back, or
up/down - that's the next project. Owning a 40 yr old Vette is never
boring as long as you practice the Power of Positive Thinking.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 01:42 PM
  #26  
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War Bonnet -this thread is going to get long - good. Based on "reads"
some threads get more than 4,000. I say this because if you print a
booklet with 1,000 copies you might as well go 2,000 plus. A idea -
make your booklet a 3 ring binder because there'll be updates. On
the forum there is a link to 5-6 pages of Winshield Wiper Tray, then
5-6 pages on getting heat out of the cabin - my point is that you already have some detailed problems/solutions. A chapter on "when"
your Vette was made - a example my 1975 has vent tubes going into
the tire well but no Astro Ventilation - why, they discontinued it in
late '75. Good information that answers questions that I could only
find on the forum. Lot of experts here.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 02:31 PM
  #27  
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[QUOTE=War Bonnet;1562428211..........Are the carbs. too heavy[/QUOTE]

well, no, if you at least reduce the filter weight with one of these thin alu stacks, it weights only 20 grs...






Last edited by panic; Oct 23, 2007 at 02:34 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 03:01 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by PETKAH
"What to expect when buying a 40 year old Corvette" Well, the first
things you need to buy are a first aid kit and fire extinguisher. When
I first got my '70 Vette about 10 years ago a mechanic told me it was
"raining" under the engine compartment (OK lots of leaks easily fixed).
Most recently the drivers seat is stuck - can't go forward or back, or
up/down - that's the next project. Owning a 40 yr old Vette is never
boring as long as you practice the Power of Positive Thinking.
Originally Posted by PETKAH
War Bonnet -this thread is going to get long - good. Based on "reads"
some threads get more than 4,000. I say this because if you print a
booklet with 1,000 copies you might as well go 2,000 plus. A idea -
make your booklet a 3 ring binder because there'll be updates. On
the forum there is a link to 5-6 pages of Winshield Wiper Tray, then
5-6 pages on getting heat out of the cabin - my point is that you already have some detailed problems/solutions. A chapter on "when"
your Vette was made - a example my 1975 has vent tubes going into
the tire well but no Astro Ventilation - why, they discontinued it in
late '75. Good information that answers questions that I could only
find on the forum. Lot of experts here.
Looks to me that you and I will be continuing this discussion Thanks for the great advise!

Originally Posted by panic
well, no, if you at least reduce the filter weight with one of these thin alu stacks, it weights only 20 grs...





Your killing me, Wow what an engine compartment! I'm going to have to study it before I can some sort of intelligent response.
Don't forget to add that to your chapter!
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 03:15 PM
  #29  
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dimples in between the headlights and the hood signify a corrosion problem underneath - a difficult and pricey one to fix at that!

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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 04:06 PM
  #30  
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"A bad corvette smells bad"

Leaky T-top weatherstripping can allow water to leak in and destroy the interior.

When the heater core fails, it ruins your carpet.

Original clocks rarely work.

This book has many tips on buying a corvette along with problem areas.
http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Corv.../dp/0760303258
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 04:38 PM
  #31  
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This is an interesting post. Here is my list based on my very limited experience with my '76; all of these are fairly common from what I've read over the past couple of years. Not a lot of detail, but thought it would help with your outline:

- Loose front-end (bushing, ball joints, tie rods, rag joint)
- Leaky steering control valve
- Leaky brake caliper seals
- Emergency brake
- Clock
- Electronic Tach
- Pop-up head lights
- Rusty floor pans (first year for steel pans was '76) mine have been previously "patched" twice and need to be replaced
- Poor window sealing that leads to rusty floor pans and rotted carpet
- Cabin heat insulation
- Heater core
- Horn

Last edited by redman76; Oct 23, 2007 at 04:41 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 05:21 PM
  #32  
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hey WAR BONNET, dont mean to change subject but gotta ask about your aviator. is it the franklin mint and if so how is the quality? i have 72 wb and was thinking about getting this. thanks, nutsy.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 05:54 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ed1655
dimples in between the headlights and the hood signify a corrosion problem underneath - a difficult and pricey one to fix at that
Good one and great picture of the problem!
Originally Posted by rexx78
"A bad corvette smells bad"

Leaky T-top weatherstripping can allow water to leak in and destroy the interior.

When the heater core fails, it ruins your carpet.

Original clocks rarely work.
Another common problem

Originally Posted by redman76
This is an interesting post. Here is my list based on my very limited experience with my '76; all of these are fairly common from what I've read over the past couple of years. Not a lot of detail, but thought it would help with your outline:

- Loose front-end (bushing, ball joints, tie rods, rag joint)
- Leaky steering control valve
- Leaky brake caliper seals
- Emergency brake
- Clock
- Electronic Tach
- Pop-up head lights
- Rusty floor pans (first year for steel pans was '76) mine have been previously "patched" twice and need to be replaced
- Poor window sealing that leads to rusty floor pans and rotted carpet
- Cabin heat insulation
- Heater core
- Horn
Excellent list!
Originally Posted by nutsy
hey WAR BONNET, dont mean to change subject but gotta ask about your aviator. is it the franklin mint and if so how is the quality? i have 72 wb and was thinking about getting this. thanks, nutsy.
The quality is excellent,
I also have the Danbury Mint WB, I think the color is super close to the real deal
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 06:52 PM
  #34  
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Corvette Consistent Problems and Defects.
How about REAL factory paint that has REAL factory touch-up areas that don't match worth a hoot. Seems to most often have occurred on that funny GOLD color, that came and went like a wind in the night.
Regards,
Alan

Your project seems like a good idea. List could get pretty long. The word INDEX comes to mind. Carry on.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:05 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Corvette Consistent Problems and Defects.
How about REAL factory paint that has REAL factory touch-up areas that don't match worth a hoot. Seems to most often have occurred on that funny GOLD color, that came and went like a wind in the night.
Regards,
Alan

Your project seems like a good idea. List could get pretty long. The word INDEX comes to mind. Carry on.
Funny, very Funny!
Actually that is a complete topic all to it's own! I have read that WB is the most difficult color to blend? However, if a new buyer looked at an original body with the bonding lines being visible, it could definately be mistaken for a bad repair! Will be noted.

That index idea is begining to sound very good
PS: Please note shirt size large.

Last edited by Don Rickles; Oct 23, 2007 at 07:07 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 08:23 PM
  #36  
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I have not tackled it yet but I am sure I am not the only one that was shocked to find out that replacing rear wheel bearings is not a Saturday afternoon project. Looks like the trailing arm removal and rear wheel bearing proceedure is pretty close to doing a hip replacement on grandma.

Bill in RI
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ribilly
I have not tackled it yet but I am sure I am not the only one that was shocked to find out that replacing rear wheel bearings is not a Saturday afternoon project. Looks like the trailing arm removal and rear wheel bearing proceedure is pretty close to doing a hip replacement on grandma.

Bill in RI
Getting the arms out isn't much fun, nor is properly setting up the rear bearings. Reassembly of the T/As isn't too bad.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 09:24 PM
  #38  
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The first one's my personal favorite and the reason I carry my heavy spare and jack, as well as a big, hefty breaker bar (sorry Panic!)

-Rusted bolt that holds the spare tire carrier up. It's really nice when you actually have a flat and you're stuck on the side of the road
-Wiper door problems
-Points ignition (I've got far too many stories about dad's 69 on that topic)
-Stuck shifter linkage when going into reverse That's never fun
-Vacuum leaks
-leaks, leaks, and more leaks (interior, oil, coolant)
-horn malfunctions (seems to be actually the most common problem)
-rusted body mounts and floor pans (The car's made of fiberglass, it won't rust, so we can drive it in the winter )
-The amazing parking brake you can fully engage while driving down the highway with no effect at all! (no, that's not how I found out mine didn't work)
-People and their stupidity (remember, I drive an 81, which is non-Stingray) "You drive a Stingray, not a Corvette!"


I'm sure there's more I'm missing. If I think of some, I'll post 'em
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 01:01 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by panic
You should consider writing in your book a chapter about 'how the 70's killed the american muscle car' then you go into a sub-chapter saying why and that will drive you streight into one of the main C3 problems: weight, specially in later models...Weight will worsen every single problem in a car, specially when this car was designed to weight one third less of what actually ended weighting: insufficient braking capacity, insufficiend road holding, insufficient rear holding and insufficient performance. All of these insufficiencies have a common denominator which is, as said above, over weight.
You're partially right. The late 70's vettes got heavy- peaking at 3572lbs in 1978- and slightly less in 79. But the diet started in 80 with thinner body panels and glass, and the aluminum intake manifold and rear diff cover- to 3336 lbs. The change to the composite rear spring in 81, further reduced weight to 3307 lbs. I've added aluminum heads. the new rear spring, and deleted the spare tire, carrier and jack, and figure about 3200 lbs for my 80- less than the 1970 rated at 3285 lbs. Uhhh, the rebuilt 355 helps too. Trivia: According to the Corvette Black Book, the 1971 vette, small block, at 3202 lbs is the stock fetherweight. Ya gotta eliminate unnecessary fat, and gain accelleration, speed and agility.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RIJVETTES
You're partially right. The late 70's vettes got heavy- peaking at 3572lbs in 1978- and slightly less in 79. But the diet started in 80 with thinner body panels and glass, and the aluminum intake manifold and rear diff cover- to 3336 lbs. The change to the composite rear spring in 81, further reduced weight to 3307 lbs. I've added aluminum heads. the new rear spring, and deleted the spare tire, carrier and jack, and figure about 3200 lbs for my 80- less than the 1970 rated at 3285 lbs. Uhhh, the rebuilt 355 helps too. Trivia: According to the Corvette Black Book, the 1971 vette, small block, at 3202 lbs is the stock fetherweight. Ya gotta eliminate unnecessary fat, and gain accelleration, speed and agility.
I couldnt agree more, that's why i've put plenty of efforts to reduce my '77 weight, I'm at 2.775lbs at moment and hope to get to 2650/2.700 lbs soon, but of course the more you go forward the more expensive are the mods to get there...
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