I am in attorney review right now for a nice 4bd, 2 full bath & 2 CAR GARAGE house on Lake Hapatcong NJ. Only a 1/4 mile from lake, if that.
We love the house and are getting it for a great price.

Only problem which is major problem is the driveway from the street to the 2 car garage.
Because the house is below the street level they put high 4 inch asphault curbs to channel rain water down the street and not into your front lawn. The driveway has a 2 inch asphault curb to prevent rain water or ice in the winter from forming on the driveway. There is no room for street parking so the driveway is the only option.
The driveway is a fairly steap decline. Due to the decline and that damn small 2" curb my girlfriends PTCruiser bottomed out. So that is a no go for the vette that might have only 4" of clearance, if that. I need some ideas to fix this driveway.
The driveway has been recently paved. I asked the township dept of public works to check it out and see if they could pave an "apron" 2" thick at the top of the driveway that will extend down the driveway about 4ft to get the cars over the peak but they got back to me today and said no-can-do b/c then the entire driveway would have to be paved b/c its such of a decline. There has got to be away around this. My vette needs to safely enter and leave this driveway to get to its new home in one of the garage bays.
SOMEONE PLEASE HELP, need some ideas.
Anyone who knows any pavers in the north north/west Jersey who can help me out without breaking the bank I would really appreciate it.

I'm thinking a gutter/"U" channel accross the driveway entrance will funnel the rain water underground and I can get rid of the 2" bump but if the rainwater is too much it could flood the channel and come downt he driveway. And I doubt the town would be thrilled if I removed that 2" curb. Any other ideas?
How about a flexible rubber flap like a garage door bottom that the cars would flatten when going over but can still hold back the water??
Or a metal spring activated flapper that could fold flat when the car tires hit it then pop back up?
Of course the driveway would still need to be paved to reduce that top peak some.
I'll take any advice.
Here's a few pics...




I also have to cut the bottom part of the Lakewood scaterproof bellhousing for more ground clearance. Only the bolt flange.
I don't even think driving at the driveway on an angle and getting one front tire up and over will help, besides there isn't anywhere to come at it from an angle.

Any ideas?

 

how does joisey feel about side pipes?

 

Might have to use inflatable air bags like they use on the california low riders. Raise it way up till you get over the curb, then back down to go in the garage. Seriously though, you might have to sell the car and buy a 4x4.

 

First thing before any ink signing I would find out is if this property is in a flood zone. North Jersey seems to take it hard when the skys open up. Some times there is a reason for such a good deal. Water problems you don't want to deal with. Also that driveway looks like it will be a chore to get out of when the snow flys. Good Luck

 

They love them. The neighbors don't know what they're in for. I ran straight pipes with glass packs on my 74 coupe throughout college. Got pulled over 4 or 5 times just so the cop could check out the car, they always talk about when they had one or wanted one. They cared less about how loud it was.

Not gonna happen. My suv makes it over fine. Gotta find a solution for the vette...and thats not being sold EVER!!!

Not in a flood zone, no water damage, no warped walls in the finished basement. Does have a dehumidifier but all lake homes do. Its high enough above lake water level not to worry.
SUV will make it out of the driveway in snow no problem, PTCruiser will be fun so I'll be out shoveling. I don't mind the shoveling. If we have to pave a curve to get into the driveway we might pave a parking spot at the top in front of the house.

Need some more ideas for the driveway guys...keep em comin.

 

How about trying to enter the driveway from a parrallel position. I run into this problem often in the limo and have found that if you enter from the side so that you are going over the bump from an almost parallel position, you may be able to get in.

 

I agree. I have about 20 feet of front yard that won't get any use so I'm thinking if I can get it past the zoning board for the town that I would like to build up the front lawn and pave about 8-10 feet so there is parking infront of the house and then do a nice "U" shape or curve down into the driveway. At least this way I'll be close to parallel coming down the steep part of the driveway. But all that work costs $$$. and the front parking area would probably get plowed in with a snow storm.

 

It is hard to tell from the picks, but the incline does not look that bad. If you can put concrete down then visit your nearest lowes/home depot. Buy 4/5 bags of quick crete. They sell concrete die you can mix in. Get some black die to match the asphalt. Then smooth/crown the entrance from the street to the asphalt. If you crown it correct you should not jepordize the water run off pattern. Bring it right to the street line to make sure the DOT boys don't get mad. If you don't like the end result you can always beat it off with a BFH. (big F*** hammer)

Only thing I could think of that was cheap/easy/and a DYI.

 

Maybe a couple small fabricated "bridges" that can be put into place only when you need to get in and out?

Sort of like the ramps for loading a mower or what not onto a pickup...

 

how about a pic or 2 from the street-level showing the actual driveway/street approach angle ?
I had a theory in-mind of changing the driveway itself where it has an approach angle instead of straight-in and out, (check local codes) including the looping curve you mentioned as well. this would change the approach/exit degree, + lessen the snow navigation which is gonna happen. (and look more appealing).
from looking at the pic you have posted, paving an additional depth on what is there is not gonna lessen the angle much unless you come way down on the driveway's length; this would be probably as costly as completely re-routing the entire driveway.
... duh, my bad. pic #1 does show the angle somewhat. if you could get permission to curb the street for water drainage, then have your entrance milled-down, the angle could be decreased a lot. getting permission to perform the work is gonna definitely be step 1.

 

I'd be really surprised if the town let you modify their 4" curb in any fashion. Now that you've tipped your hand, I hope they don't decide to check on it in a few months.

I'll bet it's technically on their easement to the property.

Good luck.