Hi folks,
Please help me determine what to offer for this car.
Give below is the description that the seller sent me.
(He seems to be a little pissed off)

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1968 Corvette Convertible with Matching Numbers and Codes - $10995

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2176/...89b676601e.jpg

I’ve had over 30 responses it is overwhelming to try to talk to all of you, respond to all of your questions. Lots of photos aren’t necessary, this is a project which is worth 4x my sale price when you have completed restoration. I don't have a tow vehicle or way to transport it for you. It leaving here immediately is not a problem, my being paid on the spot is essential. Have original pink slip, have actually had this vette for 21 years now. I want to make this transaction a little more simple for myself, my price is not negotiable. Can anyone be here in Monterey tomorrow Wednesday with all cash? I’m going to be here all day, I’m up at 6:30am. The description should tell you everything you want to know.


I've got a matching number 1968 corvette convertible the color codes are for the dark green metallic paint and black vinyl interior. It is a removable hardtop and does not have the folding soft-top frame, but you could add one if you wanted and find one. When these cars were sold new and you ordered the convertible it was your choice if you wanted the soft top or the removable hard top. If you wanted both tops the Removable Hardtop became an option you paid extra for. Removable hard top is nice in that the car is much more solid quiet down the road with the top on.

This was a complete cosmetically intact running / driving car when I got it about 21 years ago, with the exception of the stock radio which had already been removed when I got the car. All of the parts were there, the original air cleaner ignition shielding had been removed and the carburetor was not the original. it is the base 300 horsepower 327 and Muncie 4-speed manual transmission. It does not have A/C or power windows or tilt. I've never put it on the road. I always intended to do a complete restoration on it or make a driver out of it but always had other drivers and never had the time. It has always been covered. 10 years ago I did some stock suspension and front end work, rebuilt the stock calipers which were astonishingly in pretty good condition, which doesn't mean much as it then went back under cover for the next 7 years. Less than 3 years ago I put a new gas tank in it, removed everything from the body and interior and sent it downtown to have it stripped and painted, paid over $4k for a base coat / clear coat paint job. The paint was redone with the correct factory green paint code and I had a new windshield installed. Some pilfered the original Harrison cross flow radiator and one of the vacuum headlamp motors. The headlamp motor not a big deal as those go out all of the time anyway, the radiator would cost ~$500 give or take.

I have never re-assembled the interior or exterior. It hasn't been moved under its own power or started for 10 years, I have not turned the engine over for 10 years either. I don’t know if its still free. It was running shifting ok 10 years ago, the clutch engages and disengages with no problem. It will roll just fine if you want to tow it with the wheels on the road for a short distance of 20 – 40 miles any further would damage the posi-traction unless you tow it with the front wheels on the ground or use a flat-bed- or trailer preferred. When I moved to a new home 4 years ago they towed it that way. This is a project car, not something you will just put a battery in and drive away. About 2 years ago I found a stock black carpet kit for the interior from a GM dealer which was still in the box and had been a special order never picked up which was sitting in their inventory forever years so should be NOS OEM GM material. I also got an NOS front bumper and one of the rear bumpers. You have to appreciate that 40 year old NOS production quality bumper chrome is not the same as triple dip show chrome. I also found a New Ignition switch for the dash a hard part to find for a '68 and I got a couple of re-conditioned lock mechanisms for both doors, I'm talking about the impossible to find door lock mechanisms that go inside of the doors which always break, not the exterior key lock which is an easy to come by nickel and dime thing. I’ve got some extra suspension parts that will go with the car if you want them. I'll take $11,000 for it AS - IS. This is a project car.

The positive things are new paint in correct color code, new windshield, new door mechanisms and ignition switch, 2 NOS bumpers, It does have the factory rally rims which are in excellent condition (I have the center caps also), btw this set of rally rims are the 8” wide rims used on ’70 – ‘72 vettes, Engine, Transmission, rear end #'s - codes match and block serial numbers to the VIN also. It is a Convertible. Totally restored worth almost double the price of a common T-Top. Its ultimate worth would be dependant upon how much work you put into it and how far you go with it. You shouldn't get hurt on owning / the car, especially if you know what you are doing and work on your own stuff. I don't think you would have to put too much into it to just make it a driver. Restoration parts are not that expensive for these, all the cosmetic stuff is easy to find. I saw a similar / year / color / equipped / restored car go at auction this summer for $40k+ and it wasn’t’ that great of a car. The car is located near Monterey. $11k As-Is

 

I wonder if he knows these cars never had headlight 'motors'.

For $11K buy it. Seems he won't take offers, and that's a good price for the car assuming the frame is not going to rust in half.

 

headlight motor/ headlight actuator.... awe some people wouldn't even know the difference... but yeah if all the interior is there and everything else is like he has described.... then buy it and with some work by spring you might have a fun ride.... I'd be weary of the frame and the condition of the drivetrain.... since it's been sitting outside... The paint and body do look great and if all the molding and chrome are there it is a good deal! Keep us posted and good luck...

Sully

 

For 11k buy it.The fact that it is painted is HUGE!! That means that the rest of the work you can probably do your self saving thousands.The buck always stops at the body work and paint.It almost always has to be farmed out(to guys like me ) and is expensive.If you dont want it ,give me his number.

 

Me too.

 

Walk away from it.

 

I am going to buy it.
It would still need new tires, plugs, plug wires, battery brake pads etc.
Is it still a good deal for $11k ?

What would I have to do to start up the motor ?

 

Bear in mind your gonna need to tow it outa there, and it's gonna need qiute a bit of work to get it road worthy, if you got the space and time go for it.

As far as the motor check all the hoses, drian the gas tank, replace the carb, clean all the fuel lines change all the fluids, get a distributor modified as a preoiler and pre oil it, pull all the plugs, wd40 in each cyl, turn it over manually at the crank shaft bolt two full revoloutions, reinstall the plugs, pre oil it again, do anything i missed, listen to more advice on that and then fire it.

 

40K at auction for a not - too - great of a car (by the sellers description) 327/300HP '68 'vert? Worth double of a '68 coupe? This guy's dreaming. He doesn't mention the condition of the birdcage, kickups or radiator support, only that the body was taken off the frame. How do you know this is true? If you or someone else does not inspect this car, and you buy it, you may be in for a rude awakening. Also, you may have over 40K invested in the car unless you do the majority of the cosmetic/mechanical work yourself.

"I’ve had over 30 responses it is overwhelming to try to talk to all of you, respond to all of your questions. Lots of photos aren’t necessary, this is a project which is worth 4x my sale price when you have completed restoration. I don't have a tow vehicle or way to transport it for you. It leaving here immediately is not a problem, my being paid on the spot is essential. Have original pink slip, have actually had this vette for 21 years now. I want to make this transaction a little more simple for myself, my price is not negotiable. Can anyone be here in Monterey tomorrow Wednesday with all cash? I’m going to be here all day, I’m up at 6:30am. The description should tell you everything you want to know."

Rude? If this statement doesn't raise any red flags with you, then I don't know what will. My advice is: If he is not willing to deal on it, walk away.

 

be wary on the motor, he makes no promises and there may be a reason, see if the motor spins freely at least. If the motor isnt seized, and the frame is solid, that like road race says the fact that its painted is a big deal. I would make sure alll the parts he claims are there,

but for 11k for me its a toss up, Id have to see it in person to say yea or nay


cheers

 

You can buy a functional '71-'73 for that kind of money and you won't have to rebuild the interior or the engine. If your intent is to build a high-quality, original, numbers matching '68, it's still going to cost you a ton of money and you probably won't make any profit when you go to sell it. If you just have to get a '68 and you don't mind a LOT of work to get it operational, then buy it!

 

Those comments alone would make me seriously doubt this guys knowledge and integrity.

Even though he says it's been covered for the last 21 years, my bet is that it's a rust bucket.

 

He seems to use a lot of words to tell you not very much about the car itself. Most of what he says is about how much HE thinks the car will/could be worth SOMEDAY. Careful !!!!
Regards,
Alan

 

This 68 is definitely worth a look, but make sure it's a good looooong look. The fact it has already been painted is a plus, but a car in that state will still nickel and dime you to death(already been there!)
Let us know what you find out

 

Hi guys,
The seller just sent me a bunch of pics.
What do you think?.. Is it still worth 11k or should I run?

See the pictures posted here.

 

It needs the following parts for sure.
Radiator, Complete hose kit, Battery, Tires, bearings, Gauges, Brake pads, Complete fluid change.

It may need a Motor rebuild, trans rebuild, diff rebuild, carb, pumps and a whole bunch of electrical parts.

How much do you think I would spend to get it road worthy?
How much do you think I will be able to sell it for after that?

 

Man listen. We know you have the hots for this car, but calm down! Take a minute to think about what you're getting into. Trust me when I say YOU CAN FIND A BETTER CAR FOR THAT PRICE. In case you missed it I'll say it again. YOU CAN FIND A BETTER CAR FOR THAT PRICE. Take a look at the pictures below. One is the upper control arm shaft. Look at how much rust is on that thing. Do you realize how thick that piece is? Also look at the rear frame kickup. It looks just as you would expect after sitting under a cover outside for over 20 years! Imagine what the thinner metal inside the birdcage looks like. I think it's not a coincidence that he didn't take any pictures of the actual frame rails. Don't be fooled by the shiny paint man. This car is going to require a full body off restoration and a ton of money just to be safe to drive. Be patient! If you look harder, you will find a better car.

 

For less than what you have in it.

 

I have seen worse go for more. You really can't go wrong. Keep us posted!

 

There is a LOT of work to do on this car, not to mention missing parts. you haven't mentioned if you are experienced in this type of total restoration. Also you have a seller with an attitude. The seller is proud of the new paint job, but is it like putting lipstick on a pig?, at the end of the day you still have a pig.If the frame/birdcage is bad and the motor is shot ,you have a parts car ,without all the parts.Not trying to be negative but you seem a bit too eager and a bit too trusting, don't want you to get hurt on this deal, good luck on your decsion.