What is the general opinion on using the aircraft style paint stripper on fiberglass.
I've used it very successfully on metal bodied cars for years, but never on a 'vette.
I do a small 4' x 4' patch at a time; tape it off, strip it, and wash down the area when I'm done with it before moving to a new spot.
All opinions are appreciated.
Skip in Houston

 

I would not use it unless you have several layers of old paint. You don't want that chemical anywhere near the bare fiberglass. Once you get down near the primer, wash it all off and sand the rest off. If the chemicals get into the bare fiberglass you'll have a very hard time properly painting the car.

 

I used Captin Lee's Spra-Strip on my 68 (original paint)
Purchase by the gallon, takes the paint off
to the factory primer. I then used acetone
and steel wool to wash the primer off. I stripped the car
in 2000, paint looks great 7 years later.

 

I looked it up and here's what it says:

CAPTAIN LEE'S SPRA' STRIP is the original spray on paint stripper!
CAPTAIN LEE'S SPRA' STRIP is a clear liquid and should be poured from the can into the chemical resistant bottle which is included. Do not dilute with water. It's best to work in temperatures between 50° and 95°. Try to avoid days which are very humid. High humidity/water may stop or neutralize the stripper. Work in a shaded area and out of direct sunlight which can dry and waste product. Remove all plastic lenses and urethane bumpers, if your project is a vehicle. Cardboard may be useful to catch drips or loosened finish.

Just one product - Spra' Strip, safely removes paint from a variety of surfaces, namely metal, wood, and factory fiberglass.
Spra' Strip is a non-aerosol, low odor paint remover that is very easily applied to surfaces.
This product is fast acting and safer to use than many other paint strippers - it does not contain acid.
Spra' Strip clings to vertical surfaces.
Spra' Strip penetrates every layer of paint. When paint has lifted, all layers of paint can be removed in one step.
Spra' Strip will not affect the gel coat on factory fiberglass.
This product neutralizes with water.
Removes clear coat from wheels.
Available in quart a container.


I might give it a try

 

They send you a small plastic bottle, just spray it on, and let it lift for a couple of minutes, then use a plastic bondo spreader to take off.
netralize with acetone from home depot.
I bought mine from Ecklers took about 2 gallons for entire car.
I have used aircraft stripper on aircraft parts, but not on my corvette.http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...24&dept_id=127

 

I was just looking at a can of aircraft stripper this afternoon. The instructions specifically said to NOT use on fiberglass.
I have also read, as already stated by Durango_boy, that it is very hard to remove from bare fiberglass and even with repeated cleanings, there is enough residue to cause paint problems such as blistering and peeling of the finish coat.
My opinion is that a paint project is too much work to take a chance and have it ruined when it could have been avoided.
Terry

 

Skip, do you not want to use the razor blades on it? I know you came over after mine was mostly done, but it took me and a few guys in the club maybe a total of 8 hours to strip it. Most of the time the razor just tookit right off, in areas were my paint was shot we had to sand.

 

 

Works great, a little messy though, but as with any job using a chemical it is best to practices first. I waited about four minutes and then used a bondo knife to scrape off the melted paint. The primmer was still there after the four minutes so I knew I didn't get down to the gel coat. To rid the primer I used Lacquer thinner and a rag and wipe it clean. Mind you the paint I was removing was the original lacquer so it kind of fell off the car. Really made quick work of it. I did a quarter in about an hour.

Hope this Helps

Danny

 

I took a 2 step approach, I used razor blades to remove the color paint down to the primer and then Citrustrip and fine steel wool down to the bare fiberglas and it worked very well. CS is water soluable and is low odor and smells kinda.. well citrus-y.

Check out the results in this thread about half way down....

CitrusStrip in Action

 

I used Captain Lee's just this past Fall....it was pretty easy. Like they said spray on, let sit a few minutes and use a bondo spreader to scrape it off. It is messy, be sure to put down plastic and newspapers on top of the plastic. Neutralizing the stripper is a very important step be sure to use something, I believe the directions say water works fine..thats what I did. If you can afford the time once the car is completely stripped and neutralized let the car sit for a week or two so that any left over contaminants have evaporated and dried out of the glass.

 

Captain Lee's is what I used to go through 3 coats of paint. It took longer then I expected but works well. Here is a couple of pics.

 

As always, you guys are the champs. Now I have to find Captain Lee's here in Houston........
Thanks again.
Skip

 

I used it to strip my 68 2 years ago.
It was called Tal Strip and was recommended by the owner of a Corvette Body shop who has been in business in the smae location for last 27 years doing Corvettes.
I purchased it at an Auto Body supply store. Worked very well and then I neutralized it with water and finally the car was wet sanded in preparation for painting.
New paint job came out great.
Kurt

 

Skip, Did you ever find a place in Houston to buy Captain Lee's? I was unsuccessful. I stripped some of my car with razor blades, but would like to try using Captain Lee's. I just broke down and order it thru the internet. I know people mentioned buying it from Ecklers, but I got it for about $4 a gallon less from Halon Marketing at http://www.halonmarketing.com/mall/Spra'%20Strip.php

 

My vette had several layers of paint and primer/clear, etc. Captain Lee's worked great on the jambs where there was less paint, but was pretty ineffective on the rest of the vehicle. I used Kleen Strip brand stripper that was "Fiberglass Safe". I got it at our local paint and body supply house. With this stuff, ya apply it like a typical stripper, with a brush, but I was able to let it sit for a while and eat through most of the paint layers. A second coat was needed to get down to the GM black. Worked great.

Mark G

 

The only problem I see with you using it is that it says don't use it on humid day's. Are you going to wait for one of the three days out of the year that we actually have low humidity down here?

 

I used Capt'n Lee's on mine 2 years ago and no problems so far. Messy yes, but it made the job a lot easier than sanding it down by hand which is what I started out doing. I just washed thourougly with water as per the instructions and the car sat for a month in bare fiberglass before any primer or other work was done.

 

Hope i'm not hijacking the thread, but have you guys ever considered an acrylic-plastic media blasting? About $800 for the car and no risk of stripper or gouges in the glass.

 

this worked great for me water soluble and hardly any order to speak of

http://www.ibacktonature.com/Pages/r...MARINE-PD.html