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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 11:51 AM
  #1  
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Default carb cleaner

This should be easily answered from all of you smart people: I'm looking for a simple way to clean up my carb using an additive of some sort or other like products.

I would like to keep the carb on the engine because I don't think my issues warrant it. She seems a bit "sticky." I'm used to the wonderful world of new cars and all of the throttle bodies I'm used to moving are smaller (4-cyl. sized). On my Vette, however, my take off in 1st is usually not as smooth as I would like it to be usually because the throttle sticks a little, then giving way unexpectingly making for a somewhat jerky launch or just revving the engine way too much for a typical launch. I take pride in my control of a vehicle and this eats me up inside. Anyway, back on subject, the car runs well and I experience no bogging once the car has warmed up. Only if the choke is on will I feel some bogging. Other carburetored manual cars that I have driven didn't have this problem. The peddle had more resistance, but never would just give out.

I checked the cable figuring 33 years of dirt could be the issue, but that moves like its sliding on Teflon.

I was kinda hoping for a "quick fix" since this problem is so minor. Any and all input is appreciated.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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I've used injector cleaner mixed into the fuel with some success in the past to eliminate some of the internal varnish that accumulates. I've not had to do this on my Vette but have on my bike and MG. But stay away from this stuff if you have O2 sensors since it will screw them up.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 11:59 AM
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If this is more of a problem with a cold engine, you might look at the choke pull off. Weakest part is the short rubber hose. If it's cracked, choke won't work quite right. The forum expert on carbs is LARS. You might try to search for his articles on carbs and timing.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 12:00 PM
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Are you sure the butterfly shafts haven't oblonged the mounting/pivot holes in the carb casting?
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 12:22 PM
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Accelerator pump is bad.

After replacement, run a tank of the best fuel (highest octane) that you can find, either Amoco/BP 93, or find some Sunoco racing fuel (~100).

This assumes fresh plugs, cap, rotor, air filter element.

Steve
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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marshrat99,
I never would have thought that would work. I'll keep in mind. No O2 sensor so I'm not worried.

Jay-Dog,
No this problem arises regardless of engine or ambient temperature.

jaki30,
No I haven't checked out the carb all that much. I'm inclined to believe it isn't that serious because after the initial stick, I can move the throttle rather easily until it let it rest in one place for a moment. This 'stick' happens no matter where the position is; only if it is held for a moment. That means at cruise it will also stick but doesn;t really effect the drive.

halfmoontrail,
Are you sure it's that serious? it seems position dependent, not load dependent. The carb responds, rather strongly I might add; just abruptly.


Thanks for all of your input guys.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by greg75vette
halfmoontrail,
Are you sure it's that serious? it seems position dependent, not load dependent. The carb responds, rather strongly I might add; just abruptly.
You should hope that it is the accelerator pump instead of the other suggestions...not a serious repair at all. This is NOT the fuel pump, it is a small part of the carburetor.

It does actually sound more like worn throttle plate shaft bushings, shaft, or carb, because if the throttle shaft is worn, the engine vacuum will "pull" it or "hold" it at idle, when the throttle plates are most nearly closed, regardless of operating temps. Once you break that "seal", the throttle will respond normally. This is much more serious than the accel pump/tuneup I mentioned before.

If so, best solution: A NEW carburetor, not rebuilt.

Steve
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 07:03 PM
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Sound like a worn out carb base that has rounded out holes where the throttle plate shaft run through it. You can get bushings for the base, try http://www.carburetion.com/,drill out the base for the new bushings and it will be like new. Any good speed shop can do this. Did it on my 73 and the carb throttle had no 'sticky' spot.
Roger
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 09:52 AM
  #9  
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Just as an update, I've driven the car twice so far this season and there isn't any sticking/warping kinda feeling coming from the throttle. It's linear with its resistance, which is stiffer than what I'm used to, but nothing serious. I don't think I need any service on the carb. At least for now, haha.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 02:29 PM
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Disconnect the cable linkage from the carb. Then check out the feel of the cable/pedal movement and also the feel of the carb linkage (without the cable). You should be able to tell which has the binding. If it's in the pedal/cable, check out the freedom of the pedal linkage under the dash...it can get worn or sticky from years of wear without being greased. If the carb action is sticky, you can try some lube to see if it gets any better...or you may need a rebuild.
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