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Interesting what you find as you explore your "new" old Corvette, in my case a 1974. I found some cut wires under the hood liner and traced them to this unit. Looks like an electrically actuated air flapper intake for the cowl at the back of the hood. Default was flapper closed, and it was. How it was actuated and where and what the sensing device was I do not know. But I just gutted it, re-installed the cover plate with goop to seal, and will let the air flow freely from the cowl into the carb. Anyone know the purpose of this device and how it worked?
Tom,
That was very informative. Thank you. I presume by removing the flapper unit no harm will be done on normal operation of the engine aside from air intake noise.
It is removed on my '73 LS4, no problems. But could be issues in heavy rain or other adverse conditions.
Hadn't thought of rain. But in 20+ years of driving Corvettes I have only seen rain twice so not a major issue. And the opening to the carb intake area at the cowl is very small, ~1 1/2" high.
That switch on the gas pedal opens the flap - you really don't need the flap to open - but most important it also goes to the tranny so if you floor it you go into passing gear and the "roar" from the engine is when more air gets in.
Hadn't thought of rain. But in 20+ years of driving Corvettes I have only seen rain twice so not a major issue. And the opening to the carb intake area at the cowl is very small, ~1 1/2" high.
Set my flap to stay open all the time and also put heavy A/C aluminum foil tape on the inside openings of the two breather snorkels on the bottom air cleaner housing to prevent all underhood air from entering the carb. This way it is also easily reversible.
Even heavy rain is not an issue. All water will puddle and drain in the wiper cowl. Any water mist will be stopped by the air filter. In the remote possibility that the air filter becomes saturated, then just consider this a good way to decarbon the valves and pistons. T doubt that would ever happen
Mine worked but I took it all the way out Then I put A red light up in the same area.So now when I floor it I get the four barrell and A red light form way under the hood it looks cool (but not like the cops or anything).It looks like A Fire you know something we all dont want under our Hoods.
It's not the air flow that's important. If the switch on the pedal is working you will go into passing gear - because that switch is also connected to the tranny - then you will go much faster.
The flapper valves on '73-'75 are all show and very little 'go'. Nice marketing effort by GM but an inherently flawed system.
There's not enough forward velocity while accelerating to create much ram air flow.
The majority of the engine air is still supplied by the open ducts under the hood.
That's pretty much how I see it. The air flows across the hood, past the cowl, and over the windshield and roof. What would induce the air to flow down through the cowl and then forward is beyond me.
The theory of RAM air induction is correct- if you go fast enough, there will be an area of high pressure at the bottom of the windshield. This does not happen at legal highway speeds however.
Second issue- the plenum where the 'high pressure' air is supposed to collect is also vented down the sides of the firewall into the passenger cabin. The action of opening the 'Astro Venilation' vents in the footwells essentially bleeds out all the pressure.
Third issue- the crossectional area of the ducting inside the hood going to the air cleaner is very small. Nowhere near big enough to feed the engine at WOT. The poster who is relying on this duct 100% is probably starving his engine
Fourth issue- the air cleaner housing has two open snorkels- no check valves. Any air pressure that did mkae it past the obstacles above would be vented into the engine compartment.
Set my flap to stay open all the time and also put heavy A/C aluminum foil tape on the inside openings of the two breather snorkels on the bottom air cleaner housing to prevent all underhood air from entering the carb.
The underhood snorkels are needed even with a wide open cowl system. That slot in the hood is not large enough to provide the air volume that is needed at WOT. If the underhood snorkels are blocked off the engine will starve for air at WOT.
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
The flapper valves on '73-'75 are all show and very little 'go'. Nice marketing effort by GM but an inherently flawed system.
There's not enough forward velocity while accelerating to create much ram air flow.
The majority of the engine air is still supplied by the open ducts under the hood.
Originally Posted by paul67
That's pretty much how I see it. The air flows across the hood, past the cowl, and over the windshield and roof. What would induce the air to flow down through the cowl and then forward is beyond me.
The cowl induction system is NOT a ram or a forced air system. Its key is to provide cooler air to the engine. Cooler air = more HP.
And it worked. When introduced in '73, the new L82 was down only 5 hp from the famous LT1. The big block LS4 produced 5 more HP than the previous LS5.
The only reason it was dropped is the sound. As the Vette turned into a blvd cruiser the sound levels became more important, so Chevy did away with the cowl induction to help sooth the passangers ears.
I didn't read all the posts above, but I'll provide my .02c....
The induction flap serves the primary purpose of restricting [cold] inlet air at engine start-up so that ingested air will be [as much as possible] pre-heated by the engine to 'tame' a cold engine and to minimize waste hydrocarbon emissions. Secondarily, it also allows the flap to open on-demand at WOT, whether it is warm or not. It was 'marketed' as a performance gizmo that allowed higher pressure air to be 'forced' into the air inlet. Its location takes advantage of a high pressure spot at the base of the windshield. As long as your car doesn't need the flap to be shut during warm-up, leaving it in the "open" position is just fine. Originally, it was wired up through a temp-activated vacuum switch so that it only functioned in the 'open' mode once the engine was up to operating temps.
I didn't read all the posts above, but I'll provide my .02c....
..............Originally, it was wired up through a temp-activated vacuum switch so that it only functioned in the 'open' mode once the engine was up to operating temps.
Maybe you should have read them. This is a different system that has nothing to do with engine warm up. There is no temp activated switch.
The cowl induction system is NOT a ram or a forced air system. Its key is to provide cooler air to the engine. Cooler air = more HP.
And it worked. When introduced in '73, the new L82 was down only 5 hp from the famous LT1. The big block LS4 produced 5 more HP than the previous LS5.
With all due respect, the HP ratings are while installed on a dyno, not installed in the car. The cowl induction system was not fitted while conducting the test. Even if it was, the air drawn in would be the same temperature.
SAE tests require that the data be normalised to a specified temperature. No credit is given for cold air intakes other than when 'marketing' numbers are given.
I did a yarn/temp test....at idle,hood closed till stat opened,air temp between cowl/air cleaner was 150 F....after 7 mile run...same reading dropped to 125 F....
The theory of RAM air induction is correct- if you go fast enough, there will be an area of high pressure at the bottom of the windshield. This does not happen at legal highway speeds however.
Second issue- the plenum where the 'high pressure' air is supposed to collect is also vented down the sides of the firewall into the passenger cabin. The action of opening the 'Astro Venilation' vents in the footwells essentially bleeds out all the pressure.
This is not ram induction. Ram induction is a completely different system and is exampled by the Olds Cutlass W30 system and even some old GTO front hood openings.
The cowl induction was on several of Gm’s line including the T/A shaker hood and some Camaros and Chevelles.
It’s not meant to force anything, just provide a passage for cooler ambient air, no positive pressure at all.
Third issue- the crossectional area of the ducting inside the hood going to the air cleaner is very small. Nowhere near big enough to feed the engine at WOT. The poster who is relying on this duct 100% is probably starving his engine
The smallest area of the induction passage measures larger than the area opening of the carb so that is obviously not an issue. That also includes WOT. Air does not act like a fluid at flow since it is compressable. The restrictive issue here is, the type of air filter and that is used no matter what system is in use.
Fourth issue- the air cleaner housing has two open snorkels- no check valves. Any air pressure that did mkae it past the obstacles above would be vented into the engine compartment.
Don’t know what that is supposed to mean.
The air filter assembly is sealed to the induction passage. So there is no pressure anywhere.
Aside from the above it works great.
Originally Posted by Tom73
The underhood snorkels are needed even with a wide open cowl system. That slot in the hood is not large enough to provide the air volume that is needed at WOT. If the underhood snorkels are blocked off the engine will starve for air at WOT.
The engine does not starve at any rpm. This is not an 800hp, 8000rpm screamer, but a basically stock 200hp engine and as mentioned above, it just increases it’s velocity to meet the requirement.
The 2 snorkels are blocked off and it runs as good or better than without them blocked. In fact there is a very slight increase in mpg.
Even at 3500rpm cruising the secondaries are not open, so the hood induction is more than adequate.
I've done it to several vettes and to a couple of old TransAms way back when and they all got just a little bit better gas mileage with no ill affects at all.
You can see from Rich’s pics how the air flows.