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I am in the middle of replacing all my weather strip with a willcox set. Took off the A-pillar WS and it has left rubber and WS black adhesive all around it. I found that a cheap - 88 cent - plastic putty knife from Home Depot works well. The narrowest I found was 2 inch so I cut it to about a half inch wide (track width). It's gentle on the tracks as it gives way before the metal. You'll need more than one as the edge wears out. Throw yourself around at 88 cents each. I'm using the 3M weather strip adhesive remover and applying it sparingly with a small "flux" brush. Let it sit a while then use the plactic scraper. The thickness of the scraper is just right for getting in the curved parts of the track and it has a flat side that you can scrape the inside top of the curved part of the track. I also use a dry rag and elbow grease to get the softened rubber to ball up and pull more of itself off. Hope this helps. I got 2X as much done with this "tool" versus the conventional metal scraper and or towel and I have no risk of tearing up the track. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip on the plastic putty knife.
Copper
Originally Posted by c4sailor
I am in the middle of replacing all my weather strip with a willcox set. Took off the A-pillar WS and it has left rubber and WS black adhesive all around it. I found that a cheap - 88 cent - plastic putty knife from Home Depot works well. The narrowest I found was 2 inch so I cut it to about a half inch wide (track width). It's gentle on the tracks as it gives way before the metal. You'll need more than one as the edge wears out. Throw yourself around at 88 cents each. I'm using the 3M weather strip adhesive remover and applying it sparingly with a small "flux" brush. Let it sit a while then use the plactic scraper. The thickness of the scraper is just right for getting in the curved parts of the track and it has a flat side that you can scrape the inside top of the curved part of the track. I also use a dry rag and elbow grease to get the softened rubber to ball up and pull more of itself off. Hope this helps. I got 2X as much done with this "tool" versus the conventional metal scraper and or towel and I have no risk of tearing up the track. Hope this helps.
Aftermarket gaskets are not created equal, some are a lot harder than others.
Gaskets that are harder (stiffer) than GM gaskets will not seal as well and require you to probably have to slam your door to close properly.
IMO, none of the afternarket door gaskets are as good as OEM GM although some are pretty close.
If you find the good (soft) gaskets, you will be much happier
GM used latex-covered foam, while some of the aftermarket gaskets are EPDM rubber, kind of a spongy rubber ...but not nearly as soft as the original GM foam. The gaskets around the windows are going to be most critical. While at Bloomington Gold, the gaskets that Smart Parts sell are as soft as I've seen. Maybe Wilcox sells the same stuff (no idea). I know the stuff I originally got from Ecklers (Corvette America made) was awful ...very hard. Take care,
Aftermarket gaskets are not created equal, some are a lot harder than others.
Gaskets that are harder (stiffer) than GM gaskets will not seal as well and require you to probably have to slam your door to close properly.
IMO, none of the afternarket door gaskets are as good as OEM GM although some are pretty close.
If you find the good (soft) gaskets, you will be much happier
GM used latex-covered foam, while some of the aftermarket gaskets are EPDM rubber, kind of a spongy rubber ...but not nearly as soft as the original GM foam. The gaskets around the windows are going to be most critical. While at Bloomington Gold, the gaskets that Smart Parts sell are as soft as I've seen. Maybe Wilcox sells the same stuff (no idea). I know the stuff I originally got from Ecklers (Corvette America made) was awful ...very hard. Take care,
Best of luck.
Mark G
Mark-
I keep NOS GM door mains so I can show customers that walk in to the parts counter the difference. The Corvette Rubber Weatherstrips are actually softer than the GM weatherstrips!
The bonus.... No one in the US lost a job while they were being made! USA made and not imported from India or China!
I keep NOS GM door mains so I can show customers that walk in to the parts counter the difference. The Corvette Rubber Weatherstrips are actually softer than the GM weatherstrips!
The bonus.... No one in the US lost a job while they were being made! USA made and not imported from India or China!
Willcox
Oh good to know. I bought my weather stripping from you guys and I'm about to start after I finish the a/c install and interior install.
How hard are the seat to do yourself? I know there are tech articles on it and it doesn't seem too hard, but just curious. Does it require the patience of Jobe?
Review the A.I.M. for the correct method of installation for each seal; use any retention pins that are supplied (i.e. roof panel seals for T-tops). Absolute cleanliness of the seal and mating body surfaces is a must. Also, buy the black 3M weatherstrip adhesive [instead of yellow]. Put blue painter's tape on either side of the area where the seal will be placed, so that excess adhesive will not be a clean-up problem later. Finally, plan how you are going to hold the seals in place while they are curing. Do so in advance so that you have everything at hand when you need it (tape strips already torn, etc.).
How hard are the seat to do yourself? I know there are tech articles on it and it doesn't seem too hard, but just curious. Does it require the patience of Jobe?
Do you mean the seat covers? If so, what year is the car?
On your weatherstrips, we always do a re-adjust on the door glass after the weatherstrips are installed. There is a few sheets on our site abou this and this process is also included in the AIM.
Hi Frank,
I'll only add that I think its a good idea to put the various pieces in place for a dry fit before you start any glue. That way you'll have some idea where you're going to need to put the tape that 7T1 mentions.
It's not too difficult a job, but does take some planning and patience.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Here's a picture of the tape I used to control the adhesive and a picture of the blue tape holding the first dry fit in place.
Love that car. We use grease pencil marks about every 6" after the front and rear ends are screwed down dry. This keeps you from pulling the weatherstip forward while doing the install.
Alan.... why did you you use thin white tape over a wider tape???
I bought my weatherstrip kit from Doc Rebuild. I would ONLY expect these are the best from Dr. Rebuild... aren't they from Corvette Rubber Weatherstripping?
Good post - look forward to more guidance and pics as I will soon be here...... and honestly feeling apprehensive on this task...
Feeling apprehensive is a good thing...it keeps you from being over-confident and making simple mistakes. Think through everything before you start the project to identify pitfalls; and think a couple of steps ahead as you are working before executing any individual task.
I wasn't trying to make offense in the earlier post, I haven't used the Corvette Rubber door gaskets. I may have seen them, by someone else at car shows. Are they molded as one piece, or are the ends molded onto an extruded hollow-core EPDM center section? That's what I've typically been seeing. That causes hard spots where the ends are joined. Also, the aftermarket weatherstrips I've been seeing don't have as good of latex coating in most instances than original GM. But I may have not been looking at the C/R gaskets. Thanks,
Hi KB,
I used the narrow tape because I felt I could curve it around the way I wanted. You might get away with the 3/4" but I had the other so I used it.
I was stunned how hard the doors were to latch at first, but after sitting closed for a week or two they turned out to latch just fine.
Patience!!!!
Regards,
Alan
Hi W,
Thanks for the comment. It really means somthing coming from you!!!
Almost everything I know about 71 SB cars is because of that one.
Regards,
Alan
Do you mean the seat covers? If so, what year is the car?
On your weatherstrips, we always do a re-adjust on the door glass after the weatherstrips are installed. There is a few sheets on our site abou this and this process is also included in the AIM.
Willcox
It's a 74. Thinking about it. The seat covers are in okay shape, but new seat covers would help greatly. I think the foam is fine, but I don't know until looking into it further.