Dynamat Xtreme install...how far up under the dash?

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Jun 1, 2008 | 07:18 PM

MakoShark72

Thread Starter

Safety Car

Joined: Oct 2006

Posts: 3,993

Likes: 9

From: Gig Harbor WA

Dynamat Xtreme install...how far up under the dash?

I know...the further, the better!! But do you guys really think its necessary to go all the way up behind the heater/blower, etc?? Now thats gonna be alot of work!! Also, up around the steering column?? Fuggitabout-it!! Seriously though...do you think it would be THAT noticeable if those upper areas are left un-Dynamatted?? I plan to do the trans tunnel and up as far as, say, floor mats would extend..plus everywhere else of course..

Thanks!!

Jun 1, 2008 | 07:45 PM

tigers123

Burning Brakes

Joined: May 2004

Posts: 1,100

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From: belle plaine ks

I've been told the majority of heat comes from right behind engine so yes the more insulation in that area the better.

Jun 1, 2008 | 07:48 PM

Wrecked82

Le Mans Master

Joined: May 1999

Posts: 6,692

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From: Texas

When I did mine recently, I did vertically as far as I could go in the wheel wheels. Upward to the steering column? No way. I did a double layer in the foot well for sound reasons. Reasonable plus effort, but I am glad I did. Do not have to take everything apart again because I had a change of heart and think I should have done more.

Jun 1, 2008 | 08:14 PM

SIXFOOTER

Le Mans Master

Joined: Jan 2006

Posts: 9,192

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From: Boca Raton Florida

Go as high as you can, higher is definately better. Most of the heat will be coming off the headers straight bach and then sliding down and under the car. So stick it to the floor as high up the dash as you feel like taking things apart. Might as well take the ducts out anyways as they will definately need new seals on the ends. This will give you a little more access. The center box duct to the upper dash duct is usually missing a connector and has a gap in it, so fix that. Make sure the recirc air flapper in the end of the wiper tray works as it should. The seal on the vent door is probably toast, it cost about $20 and is a bich to get to, but it can be done from inside the car, worth it if it is deteriorated badly.
Something else to concider: There is a product called Micro Bubbles or Micro Spheres you mix with most any kind of paint. You paint this stuff onto either side or both sides of a surface exposed to heat and it greately reduces the thermal transfer. You can make it for under $20 and its basically home made Lizard skin, which cost $175 for 2 gallons.

Jun 1, 2008 | 09:21 PM

7T1vette

Team Owner

Joined: Jan 2006

Posts: 37,637

Likes: 3,114

From: Crossville TN

Lots of heat from the center console/tunnel area and floorpan above the exhaust pipes. Higher is better on front bulkhead, but don't disassemble stuff to get there.

Jun 1, 2008 | 09:34 PM

MakoShark72

Thread Starter

Safety Car

Joined: Oct 2006

Posts: 3,993

Likes: 9

From: Gig Harbor WA

Shouda mentioned, I'll be running side pipes and I'm in the middle of a Vintage Air A/C install. so alot of SIXFOOTER's advice either wont apply or will be real easy to access now!! You can see from the picture how clear the passenger side footwell is now, but I was thinking about installing the Dynamat up to the stock black plastic piece you can see in the photo...and across and on top of the tunnel..but probably NOT around the steering column...Should I ditch the plastic piece and its jute padding and replace with Dynamat??

Thanks..

Jun 1, 2008 | 10:14 PM

Red 69

Melting Slicks

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 2,008

Likes: 38

From: Space Coast Gator Territory

Quote:

Originally Posted by MakoShark72

The black piece that runs along under the dash is called the firewall seal or gasket. I believe the originals were made of fabric impreginated with wax. Good originals are scarce and yours looks to be in good condition. If you go up over it with Dynamat, you might consider using Saran Wrap to protect it. I was told this many years ago, after I tore the firewall seal out of my 69 and thinking I could just buy another. Maybe I'm wrong, but I think the fabric/wax seal was used until 73. An NCRS knowledgeable person might know for sure. Proceed carefully, sometimes we don't know what we have until it's gone.

Replacing the vent and heater seals is good advice. Unless your seals were already replaced, they are broken down and letting heat freely enter the interior. Another way to reduce interior temps (doesn't apply to you) is to wrap the exhaust with heat wrap material. This alone reduced my interior temps significantly.

Jun 1, 2008 | 11:12 PM

gator79

Safety Car

Joined: May 2005

Posts: 4,176

Likes: 7

From: Jennings LA

Quote:

Originally Posted by MakoShark72

I ditched the plastic, it is old technology, dynamat is better. I used dynamat extreme then a layer of reflectix. I had several rolls of fatmat so I used it everywhere else except the firewall.