I made the purchase of my 4,000 pound capacity jack stands yesterday and have them assembled and ready to go in the garage.

Before I put the lift on the car to set them in place I thought this would be a good time to ask the pros for tips, tricks, and safety details before I take her up in the air, make a mistake, and wish I had asked earlier. If anyone has pictures or articles that would offer safe practices that would be helpful and appreciated as well.

So give me the benefit of your knowledge and experience and then let the jacking begin...

Thanks

 

The only tip I can offer is that I am a safety freak when it comes to climbing under the car. My stands are rated at 6 tons each and I still slide a pair of 2 ton stands, under the frame, right beside their big brothers ... just in case. They are only $15 a pair. Cheap insurance.

 

In my experience, which I admit is limited, try to support the front by putting the stands under the cross member, not the chassis rails. The weight of the engine caused some chassis flex on my car ........... doors wouldn't open etc. Bob

 

The best tip that I have is to use 2 or more jacks to lift the car evenly. This is how I lift mine it save a lot if heart ache of wondering if the car could rock off the stands if you lift it wrong. I use one in fron of each rear wheel on the frame rain and one under the front cross member. Also dont forget the pads if your fram is detailed

 

I allway place a hydraulic jack *just* in contact with the frame, so if the car moves for some reason, the jack will move with it and take the load, if the stands tip over.

 

Use two floor jacks at the jacking points in the service manuals (just in front of the rear kick ups and just after the frame rail become straight at the front edge of the door). Jack up the left and right front keeping car level side to side. Place jack stands then jack up the right and left rear and place stands. Keep the wheels under the car where you are not working and use jacks under frame on the side you are working (just contacting frame) for added safety. I have a BB vert up on 4 stands fo andr the past 6 months with no problems opening/closing doors. Do not jack under front cross member as this will cause a dent. I have read that you can jack under the rearend to lift both wheels simultaneously but have never tried it. Good luck!!

 

I agree, cheap insurance. I will get some additional jacks for just that purpose. Thanks for the tip.

 

I hadn't heard that one before. I did hear take out the t-tops and one person told me to open my doors for the flex, but never did I hear cross members versus chassis rails. Good advice and I will do just that. I am assuming you mean to do that front and back as well? Do you go far under the car or just beyond the weld of those two locations? Do you put anything on top of the jack for stability? How about under the jack?
Sorry for all the questions, but safety is what I want.
Thank you.
David

 

This is good information. Could you help me with the pad though, not sure what pad you are describing, are you talking about the pad on my lift? Thanks for your help.
David

 

Okay, got it. I really don't want the car to tip over so your idea sounds like a good one. The only thing better might be to buy the lift I wanted in the first place and stock using jack stands. Have you ever had one fall?
Thanks for the advice.
David

 

Front first, then the back, got it. When you place the jack stands then you use the cross members and not the frame rails is that correct? And the idea of having the tires on the non working end is to give that extra distance, true? These are good tips and they will be used, thank you.
David Howard

 

Does anyone have a picture of thier car sitting on four jack stands? Would be a good reference for me in my placement as well.
Thanks to all.
David

 

My 77 Chev. Shop Manual recommends supporting the car on 4 jackstands - 2 under the frame behind the front wheels and 2 under the frame in front of the rear wheels. I jack up my car driver side first with the floor jack under the frame just in front of the trans crossmember. Raise the car till both wheels on that side are about 2 inches off the ground. Then I do the same process on the passenger side. I leave the tee tops in place, but I do open the drivers door in case I need to get in. I've done this hundreds of times and spent countless hours under the car, without incident.

 

77 sleeper, not trying to hyjack, here but worried about my safety and car. Maybe some of this info can help you as well.
I read here sometime back that someone had broke there front windshield while raising the car onto there jacks. Anyone ever hear of this? With that in mind I raised the rear end first, with minimal height required to set the rear jacks under the siderails at the back. Then very carefully and slowly raised the front each side at a time with to hydraulic jacks, jumping from one side to the other then sliding the stand under and spotting. Note the front are as far forward as what I was told on the side rails before they turn/angle in to the motor. Is this correct or can I place them somewhere under the motor under the frame. (I dont think this would fit.).
I have some flex or bowing in the car cause the passenger door is hard to open & close and I have to lift up on the door to close proper.
My rear stands are 7 to 8 inches from the back of the cross member on both sides. Was going to move them back 3 to 4 inches.
I did put my small hydraulic jack under the engine cross member with a 2X6 support/protector and took a little weight off the nose and that helped with the door a little.
Question? does it sound like my jacks are set under the car correctly?
Cause the book calls for this but the book is old.
with lonestar 26047 about the back up as well. I cut some 10 inch dia corner fence post and place them under the car when I have to start tugging on something.
Hope this helps.

 

Does your shop manual show a drawing of the location to place those jacks by any chance? If you have a drawing and a drawing number I can try to locate the same for my use as well. Thanks a bunch for looking and look forward to hearing more.
Best regards,
David

 

if your wheels are going to stay on...just build up some ramp rails out of 2x10's and use that.... a member here did that.... good idea


b

 

Its all good. The same question you are asking is what I am trying to learn before putting mine up in the air. A drawing of the proper location and jacking method would be a new jackers dream. I am hoping someone can steer me to that drawing or with enough input put together my own method to follow safely.
Thanks for your input and I look forward to the answers as well.
David

 

Great suggestion but in my case the wheels are coming off. I like your suggestion for general working under the car though. Thank you.
David

 

what are the general thoughts of drive up ramps

 

Right out of the 1977 Chevrolet Service Manual