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Prepping the engine before painting?

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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 10:33 AM
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Default Prepping the engine before painting?

I have removed my engine and would like to clean it before painting and would like to know what methods you guys have used to prep it before painting? I would love to sand blast it and have tried to see if there was available covers that bolt over any openings like the exhaust manifold ports and carb opening. I can easily cover the water pump openings and distributor opening and had thought about putting on a worthless carb and bag the carb to prevent sand from entering. I was planning on using VHT primer then the Hi-temp Chevrolet Orange. One last question, I've noticed that some people paint the bell housing on manual transmission cars and some don't, does anyone know what the correct look is suppose to be? I have a 74 model Vette.

Thanks for your advice.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 11:32 AM
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Don't sandblast it...there is too much chance of loose sand grains getting into the engine or packing into a depression and breaking loose during engine operation. Your best approach is to remove the carb and distributor, then tape-off [duct tape holds better] all fittings and openings. If you have [or can borrow] a pressure washer, that is a good way to rid the caked-on grease. Buy a couple spray cans of GUNK (or similar engine cleaner) and spray down the engine; let set 10-15 minutes for it to work, then use the power washer to blow the dirt off. If the engine is particularly grimey, it may take two attempts. After engine is thoroughly dried, remove any duct tape, then take a rag with some Prep-sol or other pre-paint cleaner to wipe down the engine;that will get all residual tape glue and oil film off. You can use a primer, if you want....if the existing paint is not flaking off, you probably don't need a primer. Use blue painter's tape to mask off any areas where you don't want paint. You can mask off the spark plug holes or put an old set of plugs in temporarily. Spray away!
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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I believe your 4-speeds bell housing should have some orange overspray on it because it was on the engine when the engine was painted at Flint.
Here's a picture of my 71.
Regards,
Alan

PS: O.K. I'm past my year here... 74's were still orange, right?



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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
PS: O.K. I'm past my year here... 74's were still orange, right?
Yes, they were still orange.
Thanks
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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oven cleaner works good to knock thick crud off.
purple stuff and a wire brush then rinse if its not too nasty.
a pressure washer works good too but be careful with water around an assembled engine. sandblasting an assembled engine is not a good idea IMO.
I follow up with carb cleaner and compressed air to get ready for paint.
if I see any fisheye from leftover oil on the basecoat, I scrub the affected area with some carb cleaner on a rag before I continue.
here is plastikote chevy orange. the VHT orange is not as bright.

I dont use engine primer.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 02:38 PM
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In general, if the bellhousing is cast iron, it is painted orange. If it is cast aluminum, it is not painted (unless there is some overspray as mentioned above).
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 04:02 PM
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Go get a gallon of Super Clean and a spray bottle. Spray it on, wait 10-15 minutes and hit with a pressure washer. You can get Super Clean at Walmart for $6.99 a gallon, way less than several cans of Gunk and it does a much superior job with much less work. Hose it off, let it dry thoroughly or use a compreesor to blow it dry, masked it off and spray away.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Rusted40
oven cleaner works good to knock thick crud off.
......................

I also use oven cleaner. It works quite well. I power washed to rinse off the cleaner. Be careful you don't get it on other stuff, it'll ruin most painted surfaces. After the engine is clean, I used compressed air to dry the engine.
I then use Pre Paint Prep from Eastwood Companies (It smells just like brake cleaner....may be the exact same stuff). I also use Eastwood's Chevy orange paint. It's a perfect match for original. I recently painted the front half of my engine and after it dried, I struggled to tell where the original paint ended and the new paint started.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 01:13 AM
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I went the POR-15 route. The block was acid tanked, cleaned with "marine clean/metal prep" and brushed with 3 coats of POR-15 chevy orange.

It seemed to turn out ok!



In my case, I painted the entire bell housing. I just couldn't stop myself!

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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by eastltd
I went the POR-15 route. The block was acid tanked, cleaned with "marine clean/metal prep" and brushed with 3 coats of POR-15 chevy orange.

It seemed to turn out ok!



In my case, I painted the entire bell housing. I just couldn't stop myself!


Very very nice my friend. I think the bellhousing looks great.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 10:38 AM
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I had my block dipped when it was at the machine shop. I then used washed it completely with a little dawn & liquid tide/water. Coated the cylinders with auto transmission fluid. Then I used POR-15 metal ready right before painting.

I hate that over spray crap too.





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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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[QUOTE=eastltd;1567005591]I went the POR-15 route. The block was acid tanked, cleaned with "marine clean/metal prep" and brushed with 3 coats of POR-15 chevy orange.

It seemed to turn out ok!

Do you think that the POR-15 is somewhat heat resistant?
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 11:25 AM
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[QUOTE=Mad Vette;1567008137]
Originally Posted by eastltd
I went the POR-15 route. The block was acid tanked, cleaned with "marine clean/metal prep" and brushed with 3 coats of POR-15 chevy orange.

It seemed to turn out ok!

Do you think that the POR-15 is somewhat heat resistant?
Yes. I used the POR-15 Engine Enamel designed for the application. For exhaust components they offer high temp products.
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